In the Cannaregio Sestiere there sits an ancient and historic settlement dating back to 1513. The jury is still out over the origin of the word “ghetto”. It is spelled in various different ways in old documents – ghèto, getto, ghetto, geto – but often indicates the place in which Jews were enclosed, first in the Ghetto Nuovo and then in the Ghetto Vecchio, in Venice.

The “tract of land called the getto or the ghetto was the seat of the public foundries where bombards were cast (gettate in Italian)” and so “the place was called el getto because it contained over 12 foundries and bronze was cast there”. The word Ghetto thus appears to come from the name of the island on which the old foundries were situated.

Todays adventure was to start at the Arsenale Water Bus Stop, taking the No.1 to S.Marcuola – Casino, and then a short stroll to the ‘Ghetto” but a detour was included to see a unique bridge, the ‘Ponte Dei Tre Arche’, the only three arch bridge in Venice which was 5 minutes from Campo Di Ghetto Nuovo.

I have to admit the bridge was strangely impressive, I managed to hide the considerable repair work being done behind the structure along the canal, lots of bright orange barriers and netting spoiling the view.

It was very considerate for a ‘working barge’ to be travelling in the right direction, old and new, historic and modern, well the modern was also an interpretation of history, carrying goods the old fashion way with the assistance of an engine! The detour was worth it.

Wandering around I noticed Gam Gam, it was signposted on my home made itinerary, next door to the famous local Italian Jewish restaurant was a well known baker, producing traditional fare, the pastries looked amazing but today I had to be careful as there were two more restaurants booked, more of that later! The bakers is cash only, been family run for years and everything is animal fat free.

I had decided very early on that I loved Venice, much as I love the other places I have visited it has its own unique charm, lots of history and great food (and coffee). The next item on the itinerary was a visit to Madonna dell’Orto via the house of Tintoretto, a very famous Venetian artist who I had never heard of, the story was fascinating as was the history of religion and its various unusual, and unique orders.

The Church of the Madonna dell’Orto is certainly one of the most important monuments of Venice, among the unmissable of the Cannaregio district. The sanctuary was built around 1350 at the behest of the Humiliati congregation, led at the time by friar Tiberio da Parma: the new building was dedicated to God, to the Blessed Virgin and to Saint Christopher, protector of traveler’s.

It’s got quite a few Tintoretto paintings, he is buried there, the paintings are stunning. Ah yes, you read it correctly, the Humiliati, I had to double check that when I read it the first time. An interesting religious order. Approaching the church a lady beckoned, there was a funeral taking place, I left for lunch with plans to return.

The bridge in the top left above is the Ponte Chiodo another unique structure as it’s the entrance to a B&B, £610 for 4 nights in September, canal view with a great breakfast, prices as of June 2024, nice. You will notice the lack of parapet, the only bridge of this type in Venice, the rooms look extremely nice. Walking to the lunchtime venue was a delight as it took me via the Rialto Market, fresh fish galore, and fruit and vegetables looking so vibrant and appealing.

It was interesting to see Grey Mullet (picture next to the blue crabs above), they are a bottom feeder and considered a ‘muddy’ fish, very rarely seen on British menus I believe, the swordfish was sadly majestic, the Monkfish tails separated from their ugly and grimacing heads. I adore fish so despite some carnage, it was so nice to see local fish on sale, fresh as fresh and likely to be cooked and eaten within 24 hours maximum.

Trattoria ‘Antiche Carampane’ is another one of the ‘must do’ restaurants. Every morning, Francesco and Adriano shop the Rialto market for the freshest ingredients. They only serve seasonal offerings from the Venetian lagoon and its surrounds, I sat outside, it was going to be a wonderful lunch. The restaurant has been cooking up a storm since 1983 and is definitely one to book, I did so on the 1st March to guarantee a table.

The fish was the freshest I have ever eaten, the raw platter served with some proper Wasabi with a serious punch, and a Yoghurt and herb ‘dip’, stunning fresh langoustine, prawn, tuna it was all glistening and so so ‘alive’.

The main course was another local fish, cooked perfectly with some vegetables, like a ratatouille. For wine, I ventured to Austria and a Pinot Blanc from Andreas Gsellmann which matched beautiful. The restaurant has a cookery book, I now have a signed cookery book and eaten another smashing meal. Thank-you to everyone at Antiche Carampane for such a delightful and pleasant experience I shall never forget.

The trip back to the hotel for the obligatory relax during the late afternoon enabled some more sights and scenes to be captured, like the fish market building, St. Marks from the Lagoon, that definitely leaning tower and some musicians enticing patrons to part with a significant amount of cash to relax, listen and drink simultaneously.

It was soon time to venture out to the evenings extravaganza at GIO’s, situated in the St.Regis Hotel to the west of St Marks square. I had booked quite a late seating, 21:00, but the advantage of the best table in the house was well worth it, wow.

The tasting menu was beckoning me, with wine flight, let’s see what this chef is capable of.

Oh yes, what a chef. The tasters at the top were Flak and Sunflower Seeds Chips, seriously, they were ridiculously tasty, the fried artichoke was crispy and full of flavour, Raw and Marinated ‘Otregano’ on a fish bone shaped cracker, another tasty morsel.

Dish after dish, the chefs skill was obvious like sweet & sour pheasant in ravioli, a meat take on sardines en saor I had eaten earlier in the week, Charcoal Grilled Octopus, tender and delish, Guinea Fowl Terrine, every plate of food was as good as the previous, the wine pairings equally wonderful.

I can be a restaurants worst nightmare, insomuch as I sometimes ask for details of the menu to be written down, those ‘chefs tasters’ that are never on the menu so I can remember them later. GIO’s were wonderful and so accommodating, adding the wine choices and also getting the signature of the Chef, Sommelier etc. such a lovely personal touch.

Like all the restaurants I had eaten in so far GIO’s had delivered in its own unique way, service was delightful, food was stunning, wine pairings perfectly matched the food.

Wandering back past St Marks Square I took the chance to enjoy the peace, lack of people and stunning architecture. I think Venice shows its true beauty at night.

…………….. Until Next Time …………. L8ers ………………