Kitchen on the Edge – Day Two

Eilean Shona: Into the Woods, Over the Hills and Quite Possibly Beyond the Itinerary

Saturday 10 October – A Walk on the Wild Side

Saturday began with another splendid breakfast, this time the Scottish variety with Haggis and Tatty Scones, followed by the prospect of a little exercise.

The itinerary offered a choice: painting with Anna or a two-and-a-half-hour Saddle Walk. Having spent the previous morning discovering how much concentration Anna could extract from a small quantity of egg yolk and some powdered pigments, I decided it was time to exercise a different set of muscles.

I joined the walking group, with Matt Waterson and Sprout joining us too, which made for rather good company.

The itinerary said two and a half hours.

An important distinction, as it turned out, is that an itinerary is a statement of intent, not a legally binding guarantee.

Beyond the Main House

Setting off together, we soon discovered one of the remarkable things about Eilean Shona: how quickly its cultivated, inhabited landscape gives way to something altogether wilder. Around the main house, gardens, buildings and paths speak of generations of people shaping the island. Much of this historic setting forms part of Eilean Shona’s nationally recognised designed landscape. Beyond it, woodland and open hillside increasingly take charge.

The transition isn’t abrupt. It happens gradually, almost without you noticing. A comfortable track narrows, moss begins to claim everything that stays still long enough, and the trees close around you and there was plenty to admire: towering conifers, fallen trunks dissolving slowly back into the woodland floor, ferns and tussocks, and extraordinarily vivid greens wherever a little sunlight found its way through the canopy.

Some of the fallen trees looked as though they had been there for decades. They were now supporting an entirely new landscape of moss, fungi and young growth. Nothing in a woodland is particularly interested in being tidy.

I rather liked that.

And having Matt and Sprout along added another dimension. This wasn’t simply a collection of guests marching dutifully from one point on a map to another. There was conversation, shared curiosity, the inevitable interruptions for photographs, and the pleasure of exploring the island with people who were just as interested in what we encountered along the way.

Although, with Sprout in the party, I suspected the possibility of an entirely uneventful morning was already diminishing.

A Little More Than Just a Walk

Following the track farther into the island, our little expedition passed through a landscape that continually changed character. Dense, sheltered woodland would suddenly open into brighter patches of vegetation before closing around us again.

The ground was richly layered with moss, grasses, young trees and decaying timber. There was plenty to stop and examine, and the pace of the group allowed time to appreciate the smaller details rather than simply concentrating on reaching the next destination. A patch of lichen is no longer merely a patch of lichen. A fallen branch becomes a tiny ecosystem. A flower still blooming in October deserves a closer look.

And, following Friday’s egg tempera session, I found myself noticing colours rather differently. Not simply green, but a dozen competing greens; the silvery cast of lichen, the warm copper of fading bracken, the dark reddish brown of damp bark, and those improbable flashes of pink and purple that appear where you least expect them.

Anna had a lot to answer for.

There was something rather lovely about the contrast, too. Here we were, with Matt and Sprout, two people whose professional lives involve creating and delivering extraordinary experiences, enjoying the simplest possible activity: wandering through the woods with the rest of us, looking at things, admittedly, the walking was about to become rather less simple.

The Old Schoolhouse – An Education of a Different Kind

By approximately 10.45 am, our walking group had reached the Old Schoolhouse area, one of the more intriguing corners of Eilean Shona. The name is entirely genuine. The Old Schoolhouse once served the island’s children, but these days its purpose is altogether more restful. One of the team at the Loch Shiel Hotel had mentioned her grandmother working at the school when the island had a more vibrant community some 100 years ago. Rather than being a forgotten building slowly surrendering to the undergrowth, it has been beautifully converted into one of the island’s holiday cottages.

And what a place to disappear to.

Situated in its own dramatic bay, more than a mile along the North Channel coastal path, the cottage sleeps four and offers an unusually appealing version of off-grid living.

No electricity, no flicking on a light switch, no casually checking whether the Wi-Fi has recovered. Instead, gas lamps provide the lighting, a gas fridge keeps provisions cool, a stove supplies heating and hot water, and drinking water comes from a filtered private spring.

There is even a Victorian roll-top bath with views towards the sea. A rather civilised way to escape civilisation, I thought. Although, given the choice, I would probably have ensured the bath was drawn before it became completely dark.

We were admiring this particular interpretation of island solitude when somebody noticed a small, rather unappealing muddy hollow nearby.

Fortunately, we had Matt with us.

What might otherwise have been dismissed as an especially unsuccessful bit of drainage was, he explained, a stag wallow.

During the autumn rut, red deer stags scrape out shallow depressions, urinate in them and roll around in the resulting mud, coating themselves in a potent mixture of earth, urine and their own scent. The smell helps advertise their presence and condition to hinds and competing males.

Essentially, the deer equivalent of getting dressed for a big night out.

Although I suspect the fragrance would struggle commercially, even with an expensive bottle, a suitably pretentious French name and a celebrity endorsement.

It was exactly the sort of discovery that made walking with Matt and Sprout so enjoyable. We weren’t simply covering ground; there was a running commentary on the wildlife, vegetation and small details of the landscape, frequently prompted by somebody spotting something the rest of us would have walked straight past.

Eilean Shona has several cottages available to rent, each with its own character, and Shepherd’s Cottage, also along this stretch of the North Channel, offers another secluded, off-grid retreat. These are not abandoned remnants of a vanished island community, but places people deliberately seek out for the solitude, surroundings and wonderfully different pace of life.

The temptation to abandon the walk, install myself in a cottage and spend several days contemplating the view was considerable, but unfortunately, the morning’s itinerary had promised a two-and-a-half-hour Saddle Walk, and Matt and Sprout appeared to be taking that description rather more seriously than I had.

So onwards we went, leaving the cottages behind as the route carried us farther into the island.

The easy familiarity of the inhabited landscape was gradually giving way to something rougher and more expansive. Woodland, open ground and rising hills lay ahead, with considerably more of Eilean Shona still to discover.

And, as the photographs would eventually demonstrate, rather more climbing than the words pleasant morning walk had led me to anticipate.

Beyond the Schoolhouse – A Slight Difference of Pace

Leaving the cottages behind, we continued farther into the island, with Matt and Sprout accompanying the group and offering their considerable knowledge of the landscape along the way. By now, however, I was beginning to appreciate that there was a subtle difference between admiring a remote Scottish island and actually walking across a substantial portion of it.

My ankles, in particular, had developed some fairly strong opinions on the subject.

The paths rose and dipped through woodland, bracken and increasingly open ground. The scenery was magnificent, but the accumulated climbing was beginning to tell. I could still walk, certainly, but my pace was becoming rather more contemplative than athletic, which is a polite way of saying I was slowing everyone down.

Beyond the old schoolhouse, the rest of the group continued ahead with Sprout, while Matt kindly stayed with me. It was a thoughtful gesture, and one I greatly appreciated. There was no need to turn the morning into an endurance event, and Matt was excellent company. We carried on at a pace that allowed both the ankles and their increasingly argumentative owner to keep participating.

Besides, when you have somebody with Matt’s knowledge alongside you, slowing down is hardly a disadvantage.

Up and Over the Saddle

The trees began to fall away as Matt and I continued climbing, giving way to rougher, more open ground. Bracken, heather and tussocky grass spread across the slopes, punctuated by exposed rock and the occasional stubborn little tree that appeared to have spent most of its life arguing with the prevailing wind.

This was the saddle walk, and at last I was beginning to understand the name.

The route carried us up through the lower hills towards the higher ground on the western side of the island. Behind us, the woodland and sheltered northern shoreline gradually disappeared from view. Ahead, the landscape opened into a wonderfully wild succession of ridges and shallow valleys.

It was magnificent, and it was also uphill.

Matt was wonderfully patient as I negotiated the uneven ground. My ankles were now expressing themselves in language that would have been quite inappropriate at the previous evening’s dinner, but stopping regularly had its compensations. Every few metres seemed to reveal another change in the landscape, another interesting plant, or a view that demanded a photograph.

The weather was also providing an impressive demonstration of Scottish efficiency.

Sunshine, cloud, rain and wind were all apparently available, sometimes within the same twenty minutes. One moment the autumn bracken glowed copper and gold; the next, dark clouds gathered over the ridges, before breaking apart to send shafts of sunlight sweeping across the hills.

There was no point trying to predict it. The island seemed determined to offer its entire meteorological repertoire before lunch, or what had originally been advertised as lunchtime.

The High Point

As we gained height, the views became increasingly expansive. The sheltered world of the gardens and cottages had given way to bare, undulating hills, with the waters surrounding Eilean Shona appearing and disappearing between the ridges.

And then came the real reward.

From the higher ground, we could look out across a remarkable landscape of islands, sea channels and distant mountains. The light was constantly changing: dark clouds softened the far hills into successive shades of grey, while occasional shafts of sunshine transformed the water into an almost blinding sheet of silver.

According to the GPS data recorded in my photographs, we reached our highest photographed point at approximately 12.28 pm, at 141 metres above sea level.

Not exactly Everest, admittedly!

But after climbing from the lower reaches of the island, over rough and occasionally unforgiving ground, it felt like a perfectly respectable achievement. My ankles certainly thought so. Matt and I stopped to appreciate the view. It was one of those moments when the journey, the effort and the landscape all come together, and you realise that being able to take your time is a privilege rather than a disadvantage.

The rest of the group had continued ahead with Sprout, but I was very glad not to have rushed this part of the island.

And, as my painstaking reconstruction of the route would subsequently reveal, reaching the highest point did not mean that all the climbing was over.

Eilean Shona had another little surprise in store.

A Little Sustenance on the Hillside

Before tackling the next stage, a short pause was called for. I had packed some organic dried mango for the journey, which now seemed an unusually inspired piece of forward planning. Sweet, chewy and wonderfully concentrated in flavour, it provided a welcome little burst of energy.

More entertainingly, the advance party had left Matt and me a tipple to enjoy along the way. A rather lovely mid-walk treat, and a reminder that although we were now proceeding at a more leisurely pace, we certainly hadn’t been forgotten. There was something wonderfully civilised about it. Sitting among the heather and bracken, admiring the view, sharing dried mango and enjoying a small drink thoughtfully left by our fellow walkers.

A sort of Highland drinks reception, albeit without the canapés, comfortable chairs or any obvious means of summoning a waiter.

And with a considerably more demanding journey to the cloakroom.

The pause was just what I needed. There is a particular pleasure in stopping somewhere like this, not because a guidebook has designated it a viewpoint, but because you’ve reached it under your own steam and can simply sit and absorb the place, Matt and I had certainly earned our refreshments.

What Goes Up Must Come Down. And Apparently Up Again.

Eventually, suitably fortified, we continued.

The route dropped away from the higher ground, winding through rough grass, bracken and patches of exposed rock. The descent offered some relief from the climbing, although my ankles were keen to point out that downhill walking presented an entirely different set of objections.

The landscape continued to reward every pause. Brown and copper-coloured hills rolled towards the water, the October light moving across them beneath an ever-changing sky. In places, the view stretched across Loch Moidart and the surrounding channels, the water catching the light between passing curtains of rain.

It felt wonderfully remote, yet there were occasional reminders that Eilean Shona had once supported a much more extensive community.

By approximately 1.03 pm, our photographs place us near another set of ruins, at around 52 metres above sea level. The remains sat quietly within a landscape that had long since grown around them, their stonework providing a small reminder of the people who had previously lived and worked on the island.

I found these traces of island life particularly affecting. A deserted building doesn’t necessarily tell you who lived there, what they did or why they eventually left, but it does make you wonder. These hills hadn’t always been somewhere for visitors to admire the scenery. For earlier generations, they were simply home.

There was, however, a more immediate matter requiring my attention, having descended so considerably, we now had to climb again.

I consulted neither the itinerary nor the GPS at this point. I felt that ignorance might be kinder.

The Second Climb

The return route involved another substantial ascent, something that would become all too apparent when I later examined the elevation data from my photographs as far from being a simple downhill amble back towards the main house, the route rose again to approximately 123 metres by 2.20 pm.

My ankles had not been consulted about this arrangement!

By now, the walking had settled into a slower rhythm. Matt remained excellent company, and his willingness to match my pace made all the difference. We could stop, look around, discuss whatever caught our attention and carry on when ready. There was no pressure to make the morning into anything other than an enjoyable exploration of an extraordinary island.

The weather, meanwhile, continued to alternate between breathtakingly beautiful and mildly threatening, sometimes managing both simultaneously. Shafts of sunlight broke through the clouds and illuminated distant water and hills, while the surrounding landscape remained under a heavy grey sky.

This was precisely the sort of scenery that had persuaded me to come to Eilean Shona in the first place. I might have preferred slightly more cooperative ankles, but one can’t have everything.

And there was something quietly satisfying about looking back across the ground we’d covered. The climb, the descent, the pauses and the unexpected second ascent were all becoming part of a much richer experience than the two-and-a-half-hour walk described on our itinerary. At some point, I suspected, Sprout and the others might begin wondering whether we’d decided to settle permanently on the hillside.

The good news was that we were finally making our way back towards the more sheltered, wooded part of the island.

The even better news was that I still had some dried mango left.

Back Into the Woods – An Entire World in Miniature

Eventually, the exposed hillside began to give way to the shelter of the trees.

It was quite a transformation. After the enormous skies, sweeping views and open, bracken-covered slopes of the saddle, the woodland felt almost intimate. The wind diminished, the light softened beneath the canopy, and the ground became a wonderfully intricate mixture of moss, fallen timber, ferns and countless shades of green.

Matt and I continued at our own pace, which by now was best described as unhurried, with occasional opportunities for negotiation. My ankles were still contributing fairly vigorously to those negotiations.

But the slower pace brought its own rewards. There was time to look properly at the extraordinary detail of the woodland rather than simply concentrating on where to put the next foot.

Lichen – A Rather Extraordinary Partnership

One of the most striking discoveries was the pale, intricately branching lichen growing amongst the trees.At first glance, it looked like something belonging beneath the sea: a miniature coral, perhaps, or an impossibly delicate collection of bleached underwater branches.

But lichen is something rather more interesting than an ordinary plant.

Most lichens are formed through a close association between a fungus and a photosynthetic partner — usually an alga, sometimes a cyanobacterium. The fungus provides structure and protection, while its partner captures energy through photosynthesis. It’s a remarkably successful arrangement, allowing lichens to colonise surfaces and survive conditions that many other organisms would find distinctly unappealing.

Their abundance gave the woodland an almost enchanted quality, pale strands and branching forms contrasting with the rich greens and browns of the surrounding vegetation. I wasn’t going to attempt a species identification from the photograph alone, but I was thoroughly captivated by its structure. It also seemed a particularly appropriate discovery during Kitchen in the Wild: an organism built around cooperation, with each partner contributing something rather important to the finished result.

A little like the kitchen team.

Although I suspect the lichen would be considerably less effective at producing an Earl Grey.

Silver Fir, Fallen Giants and the Art of Doing Nothing Quickly

Elsewhere, one of the island’s botanical labels identified a common silver fir, Abies alba.

Native to the mountains of central and southern Europe, silver fir is one of the impressive conifers introduced into British gardens and estates. Its presence here was a reminder that Eilean Shona’s woodland is not simply an untouched wilderness, but part of a landscape influenced by generations of planting, cultivation and changing ideas about gardens and forestry.

And then there were the fallen trees.

Some lay stretched across the woodland floor like great sleeping animals, their surfaces almost entirely enveloped in moss. Others had begun the long process of breaking down, supporting fungi, insects, young plants and an extraordinary diversity of smaller life. What might appear untidy in a carefully maintained garden is an essential part of a healthy woodland.

Deadwood isn’t really dead in an ecological sense. It provides shelter, nutrients and a remarkable variety of habitats as it gradually returns to the soil. There was something rather satisfying about that.

Nature recycling on a magnificent scale, without the need for three different coloured bins or a laminated council leaflet explaining which one to use.

Anna Had a Lot to Answer For

I couldn’t help noticing how differently I was looking at everything after the previous day’s egg-tempera workshop with Anna Koska. Before Friday, I might have described the woodland as green.

Now, after three hours being encouraged to look more carefully at colour, tone and the subtleties of the natural world, that description seemed hopelessly inadequate. There was the dark, almost blue-green of the conifers, the vivid emerald of fresh moss, the muted grey-green of lichen and the warm, rusty browns of fallen needles and decaying timber.

Even the light had its own colours, filtering through the canopy and illuminating small patches of vegetation while the surrounding woodland remained in shadow.

And then there were the mushrooms. Tucked amongst the moss, grasses and fallen leaves was a magnificent red-capped fungus, its brilliant scarlet surface punctuated by pale patches where the outer skin had been disturbed. It looked almost impossibly vivid against the muted colours of the forest floor.

A proper fairy-tale mushroom.

The sort that makes you half expect a small woodland creature to emerge from beneath it and enquire whether you’ve brought any biscuits.

It was a wonderful reminder of just how much life exists at ground level, much of it easily missed when concentrating on where to put your feet. Fungi play an essential role in woodland ecosystems, breaking down organic material and, in many species, forming intricate mycorrhizal partnerships with trees and other plants, exchanging nutrients through networks hidden beneath the soil.

Rather more sophisticated than their apparently modest circumstances might suggest.

Naturally, I photographed this magnificent specimen rather than attempting to eat it. My ambitions for the day had already extended well beyond the itinerary, and accidentally poisoning myself seemed an unnecessary additional achievement.

Anna would undoubtedly have distinguished another forty-seven shades.

I was making progress, and while my own artistic achievements were unlikely to trouble the National Gallery any time soon, I was beginning to understand one of the most valuable lessons of her workshop: looking and observing are not necessarily the same thing.

Sometimes, slowing down reveals an extraordinary amount that would otherwise pass unnoticed, although, in fairness, my ankles had been advocating this philosophy for several hours.

There was something particularly enjoyable about those final stretches. After the exposed heights of the saddle, the relative shelter of the trees was welcome, and the familiar signs of paths and cultivated woodland suggested that civilisation — or at least somewhere to sit down — was becoming a realistic prospect.

Matt remained excellent company throughout.

His willingness to stay with me when the rest of the group continued ahead with Sprout had made a considerable difference. What might otherwise have become a slightly miserable struggle to keep pace had instead turned into an opportunity to explore the island more thoughtfully, with someone whose knowledge and appreciation of the landscape added enormously to the experience.

I was genuinely grateful.

And somewhere amongst the hills, I had also acquired a rather better understanding of what constitutes a two-and-a-half-hour walk, apparently, the answer depends quite considerably on whose ankles are involved.

The Route – A Picture Worth Several Thousand Steps

Back home, I subsequently spent hours working through the original photographs, extracting their GPS coordinates, timestamps and recorded elevations, and plotting them against an Ordnance Survey map.

The result was a three-part reconstruction of our route: the photographic positions, the underlying island geography and the elevation profile.

It is worth emphasising that this wasn’t a continuous recording from a dedicated GPS device, I totally forgot I had a app on my phone that could have made the above a lot quicker, and simpler to produce! The plotted points were taken from individual photographs, and the lines between them illustrate their sequence rather than claiming to reproduce every twist and turn of the paths.

Nevertheless, the recorded elevations tell a particularly revealing story.

We climbed to approximately 141 metres at 12:28 pm, descended towards the ruins to around 52 metres by 1:03 pm, and subsequently climbed again to approximately 123 metres at 2:20 pm.

A second ascent on the return journey, I feel that point deserves to be recorded for posterity.

The final GPS-tagged photograph in the reconstruction was taken at approximately 2:32 pm, making it clear just how much the morning’s exploration had expanded beyond the scheduled two-and-a-half-hour activity, I am rather pleased with the finished graphic.

Partly because it provides a useful geographical record of an extraordinary walk, and partly because I can now produce documentary evidence whenever anybody suggests that I’d merely been out for a gentle stroll.

My ankles are considering having it framed.

An Island Worth Exploring Slowly

What a wonderful experience it had been.

From the Old Schoolhouse and its beautifully secluded cottages to the extraordinary rituals of the rutting stags; from sheltered woodland to the open heights of the saddle, with its magnificent views across the surrounding waters; and then back again through an entirely different world of lichen, moss and towering trees. All made richer by the company, first of our walking group with Sprout and Matt, and later by Matt’s kindness in accompanying me at my own pace, sharing his extensive knowledge on the way.

It had been a reminder of something rather important, you don’t necessarily experience more by travelling faster.

Sometimes, the most memorable discoveries happen when you’re obliged to slow down, look around and appreciate what’s directly in front of you, an encouraging thought.

Although by this stage I was also looking forward to appreciating something considerably more immediate.

A comfortable chair.

And possibly a large cup of Earl Grey tea.

Preferably delivered without requiring another ascent of 123 metres.

Back to Civilisation. And Earl Grey.

Returning to the main house after our extended exploration of Eilean Shona, I was pleased to discover that civilisation remained exactly where we had left it, and more importantly, so did the tea.

There is something particularly comforting about returning from several hours of hills, woodland, boggy ground and increasingly vocal ankles to a handsome Scottish country house, especially when somebody (thanks Sprout) is prepared to produce a cup of Earl Grey without requiring you to demonstrate any further physical competence.

The Kitchen in the Wild team seemed pleased to see me back.

Or possibly relieved.

Either way, I considered my return a considerable success, and there was little time to dwell on my athletic achievements, because the afternoon had another treat in store.

Nathan Outlaw – An Afternoon in the Kitchen

At 2.30 pm, the itinerary promised a demonstration from Nathan Outlaw. After the morning’s exertions, sitting down and watching somebody else do something extraordinarily skilful seemed an excellent arrangement, and Nathan had established a demonstration station in the main house, complete with a tartan-covered work surface, cooking equipment and a copy of his book latest book, On Fish.

Outside, the island’s scenery provided the backdrop. Inside, we had one of Britain’s most accomplished seafood chefs showing us how to prepare and cook beautiful fish and shellfish.

Not a bad way to spend a Saturday afternoon.

Nathan’s career has been built around a profound understanding of seafood, and what makes him especially engaging is the way he communicates that knowledge. He is precise about technique, but never makes it seem unnecessarily complicated. The emphasis is on understanding the ingredient, respecting its qualities and knowing when to stop interfering.

There was mackerel, scallops and oysters to examine, prepare and discuss, along with the construction of a nage — essentially an aromatic cooking liquor or light broth, often used with fish and shellfish, which allows their flavour to remain central rather than burying it beneath an unnecessarily elaborate sauce.

Watching an experienced chef work at close quarters is fascinating. Movements that appear quite casual are anything but. Knife angles, timing, temperature and the handling of delicate ingredients all reflect years of repetition and accumulated understanding.

The mackerel was particularly interesting. An oily fish with bags of character, it rewards freshness and careful handling. Nathan demonstrated the preparation before cooking it, and the resulting fish, opened out and beautifully coloured, looked rather magnificent.

The scallops and oysters brought their own considerations. Scallops require remarkably little cooking when they are good, while oysters offer a whole range of possibilities beyond simply opening the shell and adding a squeeze of lemon.

As the questions came from around the table, Nathan explained what he was doing and, equally importantly, why.

I had originally come to Kitchen in the Wild for the food, of course, but opportunities like this were a significant part of its appeal. There is a considerable difference between enjoying an excellent dish in a restaurant and being able to sit a few feet away from the person responsible, watching the decisions that make it excellent in the first place.

And all without having to do the washing-up.

My Earl Grey was coming along very nicely.

Questions, Answers and the Island Pub

Saturday evening’s programme took us to the Village Hall, where Val had arranged a conversation with Nathan before dinner.

The venue had been transformed into something resembling the most appealing private island pub imaginable: timber walls, fairy lights, hanging stars, comfortable chairs, a glowing wood-burning stove and, naturally, a bar.

At 7.15 pm, Val led the Q&A with Nathan. It was a chance to hear more about the experiences, decisions and philosophy behind his cooking, away from the bustle of a professional kitchen.

The atmosphere was relaxed and informal, with Nathan speaking about his work and answering questions from the group. There is something rather special about having this kind of access to somebody operating at his level: no stage, no great separation between chef and audience, just an engaging conversation amongst people who genuinely care about food.

The real charm of Kitchen in the Wild was becoming increasingly apparent. These weren’t simply a series of celebrity appearances or restaurant meals transplanted to a remote island. The people involved were spending time with us, sharing their knowledge and enjoying the company, and, in between all that accumulated culinary expertise, somebody generally remembered that I might appreciate another cup of tea.

A highly civilised operation.

Nick Strangeway – A Negroni With an Island Accent

Of course, Saturday evening also meant another appearance from Nick Strangeway.

Nick’s contribution to Kitchen in the Wild went considerably further than supplying something pleasant to drink. His knowledge of spirits, botanicals, flavour and cocktail history brought an entirely different dimension to the experience, with drinks designed to complement the food rather than compete with it.

Tonight’s opening act was a Damson Negroni.

A traditional Negroni is built around gin, Campari and sweet vermouth, balancing bitterness, sweetness, aromatics and alcohol. Bringing damson into that arrangement introduces the dark-fruit character and tartness of a British autumn.

A rather appropriate drink for an October evening on a Scottish island.

I suspect the quality of Nick’s cocktails was also contributing to the general enthusiasm for the evening’s programme. It is remarkable how animated an audience can become when their education includes a well-made aperitif.

Dinner cooked on the Fire Pit

By 8.15 pm, it was time for the evening’s principal event: the Fire Pit Dinner.

The Village Hall had taken on a wonderful warmth. Candles flickered along the tables, the stove was glowing, conversation flowed and the extraordinary team behind Kitchen in the Wild had been busy creating dinner for us.

Outside, the cooking arrangements centred around the fire pit, bringing an additional dimension to the meal: the smell of woodsmoke, the elemental pleasure of cooking over fire and the unmistakable sense that this was not going to be an entirely conventional dinner party.

The work required to make all of this appear effortless should not be underestimated. While the headline names were quite rightly attracting our attention, a talented group of supporting chefs, organisers and island staff were working away to ensure that everything arrived beautifully prepared, properly timed and with the sort of relaxed hospitality that takes a tremendous amount of effort to achieve.

They were magnificent.

We began with crab on toast and crispy cod with aioli, accompanied by Nick’s Damson Negroni.

An excellent opening pair: the natural sweetness of crab against crisp toast, followed by the contrast of crunchy cod and garlicky aioli.Simple descriptions, but the sort of food where the quality of the ingredients and the care taken over their preparation make all the difference.

Then came toasted flatbreads with leeks and Corra Linn, a Scottish cheese made by Errington Cheese in Lanarkshire. Produced from sheep’s milk, Corra Linn has a firm texture and a rich, complex character that makes it particularly good in this sort of preparation, where warmth brings its flavours to the fore.

Leeks, cheese and freshly toasted flatbread. There are moments when culinary sophistication and the basic human desire for something warm, savoury and delicious achieve perfect alignment.

This was one of them.

Venison, Fire and a Very Proper Dinner

The centrepiece was grilled loin of venison with confit garlic, accompanied by peas jardinière, cabbage with brown shrimp and chervil, and pomme purée.

The venison was beautifully cooked, with a deeply coloured exterior and a wonderfully pink centre. Rich and full-flavoured, it was exactly the sort of meat that benefits from cooking over fire, where a little char and smoke enhance rather than overwhelm its character.

And it was served generously, with the accompaniments brought together on the plate.

The peas jardinière brought a lovely mixture of vegetables, colour and freshness. The cabbage with brown shrimp and chervil was a particularly interesting accompaniment, combining sweet, delicate shrimp with the gentle brassica character of the cabbage and the fresh, faintly aniseed note of chervil.

And then there was the pomme purée. Beautifully smooth, rich and buttery, presented in generous folds that suggested nobody involved had suddenly become concerned about the nutritional implications of dinner.

Quite right, too.

The wines listed for the evening were a Reine Juliette Picpoul 2025 from Languedoc and a Xavier Côtes du Rhône Rouge 2021 — a thoughtful pairing of contrasting styles for a menu moving from seafood and cheese to richly flavoured venison.

Around us, the conversation and laughter continued, and it was lovely to see everyone enjoying themselves after a day that had taken us in several rather different directions.

A Rather Spectacular Pudding

Just when we had reached the stage where a sensible person might have considered stopping, pudding appeared.

Late summer pudding with meadowsweet cream.

The pudding was a glorious, deeply coloured dome of fruit-soaked bread, surrounded by its own dark berry juices. A wonderful celebration of the tail end of the fruit season, although its appearance suggested the berries had mounted a particularly successful takeover.

The meadowsweet cream was an inspired accompaniment. Meadowsweet is an aromatic wild plant with a distinctive, sweet fragrance often described as having notes reminiscent of almond, honey and vanilla. Using it in cream gives an otherwise familiar British pudding a subtle connection to the surrounding landscape.

To complete the evening, Nick had devised a drink entitled Buttered Sloe, Apple, Medlar.

Sloe, apple and medlar are wonderfully evocative autumn flavours, and the name alone suggested the sort of comforting, orchard-inspired concoction that belongs beside a fire as the weather outside remembers it is October in the Highlands.

By this stage I was perfectly content to let the professionals continue demonstrating their considerable talents while I concentrated on appreciating the results.

It had been quite a day.

We’d climbed hills, discovered extraordinary landscapes, learned from one of Britain’s finest seafood chefs, enjoyed a fascinating conversation with Nathan, benefited from Nick’s considerable liquid expertise and finished with a remarkable dinner.

All supported by the people working tirelessly behind the scenes to make Kitchen in the Wild feel so wonderfully relaxed.

The itinerary had described the morning’s excursion as a two-and-a-half-hour walk, but I was beginning to think it was wise not to take any of its descriptions too literally.

And there were still two more days to go.

…………….. Until Next Time ………… L8ers ………………

Kitchen In the Wild – Day One

Six O’Clock – Rather Too Excited to Sleep

Six o’clock. Wide awake.

Not because of an alarm, a passing vehicle or the familiar noises of everyday life, but simply because I was far too excited to stay in bed. After nineteen months of anticipation, and an excellent opening dinner courtesy of Val Warner the previous evening, I had finally spent my first night on Eilean Shona.

My home for the next few days was Tioram Cottage, a wonderfully comfortable stone-built house overlooking Loch Moidart, shared with Ruth and Tim, each of us occupying a separate bedroom. The cottage was generously appointed, with a large open-plan kitchen, dining and sitting area, comfortable sofas and an open fireplace. Its windows looked across the water towards the magnificent ruins of Castle Tioram.

There were also some thoughtful little touches, including fresh milk, drinking water and three miniature bottles of Nc’nean Organic Single Malt Scotch Whisky, produced on the nearby Morvern peninsula. I was particularly impressed by the provision of both whisky and fresh milk. Clearly, somebody understood that the needs of a gentleman can vary considerably according to the time of day.

Outside, the island was slowly emerging from the darkness. Beyond the cottage lay woodland, sheltered bays, rocky coastline and the waters of Loch Moidart and for once, I had absolutely nowhere I needed to drive, a rather unfamiliar situation after four days of chasing castles, archaeological monuments and interesting places to eat across western Scotland.

My carefully annotated OS maps could finally enjoy a well-earned rest, I couldn’t.

With another hour and a half before breakfast, I consulted the itinerary, an altogether more agreeable document than anything produced by the DVLA. Val and Clare had thoughtfully explained that we should enjoy the island at our own pace. There were activities, demonstrations, excursions and plenty of opportunities simply to relax. We were under no obligation to participate in everything.

An extremely civilised philosophy.

The first choice of the day rather neatly illustrated the point. From 7:30am, there was an optional swim and sauna down at Sail Loft beach, coinciding with the start of breakfast in the main house.

I considered both possibilities.

One offered invigorating immersion in the bracing waters of the Scottish Highlands, followed by the restorative warmth of a sauna, whilst the other offered a roaring log fire, freshly brewed Earl Grey and a breakfast menu that I’d already heard very promising things about.

As a man who had travelled all this way primarily because of his enthusiasm for excellent food, I felt it important to remain true to my principles, by the time breakfast began, I was already at Eilean Shona House.

First to arrive, naturally.

I appreciate that some people embrace the wild through physical endurance and exposure to the elements, but personally, I was perfectly happy to begin with a cup of tea.

A Roaring Fire and a Proper Scottish Breakfast

And what a lovely welcome awaited me.

The house was wonderfully atmospheric in the early morning. A roaring log fire filled the room with warmth, the comfortable surroundings invited you to linger, and the dining room, with its magnificent abstract mural and long communal table, had been transformed overnight from the scene of our splendid first dinner into an equally inviting breakfast setting.

There was something particularly enjoyable about being first downstairs. The quiet before everyone gathered, the smell of toast, the fire crackling away and that wonderful anticipation of a day with no emails to answer, no traffic to negotiate and no pressing decisions beyond what to eat.

Admittedly, given the breakfast menu, that final responsibility was not entirely insignificant, and once again, there was the reassuring sense that everything had simply appeared as if by magic.

Of course, it hadn’t.

Behind the relaxed atmosphere was an extremely hardworking team of skilled chefs, house staff and organisers, quietly ensuring that everything ran beautifully. Meals were prepared, rooms looked after, activities coordinated and drinks produced, often before anyone had thought to ask.

And somebody had already grasped the importance of a properly timed cup of Earl Grey.

An excellent start to the day, and considerably less traumatic than a swim in Loch Moidart.

The breakfast menu was a thing of beauty.

On the help-yourself side were Eilean Shona granola, rhubarb and elderflower compote, thick Scottish yoghurt, toast, jams and salted butter. There was apple juice, tea and coffee, along with Nick’s Bloody or Virgin Mary. Given Nick Strangeway’s considerable credentials in the drinks department, even the prospect of a Bloody Mary at breakfast came with rather more pedigree than usual.

Then there were the cooked choices.

Scottish porridge with whisky cream or ordinary cream, Tobermory smoked trout with crème fraîche and homemade dill pickles, butterflied kipper with poached eggs, herb butter and watercress, or a full Scottish fry-up incorporating MacSween haggis, bacon, sausages, tattie scone and an egg fried in dripping.

Honestly, I could have spent the next four mornings investigating the menu and still felt I’d neglected something important.

[INSERT PHOTO: 08:00 – Freshly sliced bread, toaster and breakfast preparations.]

The bread alone looked excellent, with generously sliced rustic loaves waiting alongside the toaster. There was something satisfyingly domestic about this arrangement. Extraordinary cooking in a remarkable house, but without losing the simple pleasures of making yourself a decent piece of toast.

The rhubarb and elderflower compote was particularly tempting, its soft fruit offering a combination of sweetness and gentle acidity. Alongside thick Scottish yoghurt and the house granola, it made a rather civilised beginning and was also exceedingly good, slathered on buttered toast.

But I had already made my decision about the main event.

Tobermory Smoked Trout – A Very Good Decision

I chose the Tobermory smoked trout, crème fraîche and homemade dill pickles, with the optional poached egg.

Optional?

Under what circumstances would a perfectly good poached egg be regarded as unnecessary?

The plate arrived looking wonderfully restrained.

A generous piece of beautifully coloured smoked trout, its vivid orange flesh contrasting with the pale crème fraîche, delicate slices of homemade pickle and a perfectly formed poached egg.

The trout possessed the rich, gently smoky character that makes this style of fish so appealing. The crème fraîche added a welcome freshness and richness, while the crisp, lightly acidic pickles, scented with dill, provided the contrast needed to bring everything together.

And then there was the poached egg, a beautifully formed little parcel, its delicate white concealing the promise of a magnificent golden yolk. Some things simply belong together, and smoked fish, good bread and a properly poached egg are very high on my list.

It was an excellent breakfast, enjoyed beside a roaring fire, and I was beginning to appreciate just how pleasant it was to have an entire day ahead without the slightest responsibility for organising any of it.

An unusual sensation.

But one I felt I could learn to enjoy.

Egg Tempera – Three Hours in the Company of Anna Koska

At 9:30am, it was time to head to the Studio for an activity I’d been particularly looking forward to: a morning exploring the ancient art of egg-tempera painting with Anna Koska. Unlike most of the people I’d only recently met on the island, Anna was already something of a familiar presence, having discovered her extraordinary natural-history illustrations some months earlier, I’d become completely captivated by her work, and we’d been briefly exchanging comments on Instagram in the lead-up to the trip.

Her paintings have a quality that photographs, however accomplished, rarely achieve. She notices the tiny variations in colour, structure and texture that most of us simply overlook: the subtle translucency of a petal, the curve of a leaf, the extraordinary detail in the scales of a fish, or the delicate architecture of something as seemingly insignificant as a snail’s shell.

There is something wonderfully absorbing about her approach to the natural world, and now I was about to discover rather more about how she achieved it.

I should probably explain that my enthusiasm for beautiful botanical artwork does not necessarily indicate any corresponding ability to produce it.

Appreciation and execution are two entirely different disciplines.

An Ancient Technique, a Rather Unusual Ingredient

Egg tempera is one of the oldest established painting methods, used since antiquity and particularly associated with medieval and early Renaissance art. Before oil painting became dominant in Europe, it was the medium responsible for many of the extraordinarily detailed religious panels and altarpieces that survive today. Its essential ingredients are remarkably simple: powdered pigment, water and egg yolk.

The yolk acts as the binder, holding the coloured particles together and fixing them to the painting surface as the paint dries. It is a beautiful meeting of natural materials and artistic endeavour.

Although it does mean that, having already enjoyed a magnificent poached egg for breakfast, I was now about to spend the remainder of the morning investigating an entirely different application for its close relative.

Clearly, Kitchen in the Wild had decided to explore the versatility of eggs in some depth.

Our workspace had been prepared with paper, brushes, pigments, small containers and the various materials required to make our own paint, and what initially appeared quite straightforward rapidly developed into a fascinating lesson in the nature of colour itself.

The Extraordinary World of Pigments

One aspect I found particularly absorbing was Anna’s explanation of pigments. Long before artists could purchase conveniently packaged tubes of colour, their materials came from the natural world: coloured earths, minerals and other substances that could be processed and ground into fine powders.

Some colours were relatively inexpensive and readily available, earth pigments such as ochres and umbers could be obtained from iron-rich clays and mineral deposits.

Others were historically extraordinarily valuable.

Natural ultramarine, for example, was produced from lapis lazuli, much of it transported from mines in what is now Afghanistan. Its remarkable blue made it so prized that, in certain periods, it could cost more than gold. An artist’s palette could therefore represent not merely a collection of colours, but an astonishing network of geology, trade, craftsmanship and expense.

Even with modern pigments, differences in their composition, fineness and behaviour affect how the paint mixes, covers and responds to the brush.

I found this fascinating.

Something that appears so uncomplicated when looking at a finished painting turns out to involve a remarkable degree of material knowledge.

And then there was the egg.

The pigment is first mixed into a workable paste, while the yolk provides the binding medium. Combined in suitable proportions, they produce a paint that can be applied in beautifully fine, controlled layers. It dries relatively quickly, meaning that the artist cannot simply push wet paint around indefinitely, as might be possible with oils.

Instead, depth and subtlety are achieved gradually, through repeated applications, carefully judged colour and patient brushwork.

It was beginning to dawn on me that Anna’s extraordinary illustrations were not the result of somebody casually waving a paintbrush about for half an hour. There was rather more to it than that.

Learning to Look

What I enjoyed most about the session was the change of pace it encouraged.

The previous few days had involved covering considerable distances, searching out ancient monuments, photographing landscapes and attempting to absorb five thousand years of Scottish history. Now, for almost three hours, the objective was simply to stop, look carefully and concentrate.

To consider colour rather than merely recognise it.

To notice subtle changes in tone, how one shade sits beside another, how light alters what we think we’re seeing, and how even a seemingly simple natural form can contain an astonishing amount of visual information. There is a particular kind of calm that develops when you’re concentrating completely on a small piece of work, like a simple leaf!

The conversations around the table gradually gave way to quieter discussion, the occasional question, the gentle movement of brushes and the business of mixing and testing colours. Coffee appeared at appropriate intervals, which I regarded as an essential contribution to the creative process.

Anna guided us through the materials and technique with patience and enthusiasm, encouraging us to experiment while developing a better understanding of what we were actually trying to achieve. Choosing a brush was itself an education. Different sizes and shapes offered varying degrees of control, but egg tempera rewards a particularly considered approach, building colour through fine, deliberate marks rather than great sweeping applications.

At least, that was the theory.

My own approach occasionally suggested somebody attempting to decorate a very small fence.

Nevertheless, I became thoroughly absorbed. For somebody whose usual relationship with a paintbrush involves making sure there aren’t any visible drips on a skirting board, this was rather a revelation.

My Contribution to the World of Fine Art

By the end of the session, I had produced my own little egg-tempera creation.

A small study involving variations of deep green, with fine pale lines radiating across its surface.

Was it likely to trouble the National Gallery’s acquisitions committee? Perhaps not immediately.

But I was rather pleased with it.

More importantly, it represented three thoroughly enjoyable hours spent discovering a new medium, developing a little patience and learning to appreciate the care behind an artist’s work.

Anna very kindly added a handwritten message to my painting:

“It’s been a pleasure teaching you, Jules! Carry on! Best wishes, Anna xx”

Which I thought was rather lovely.

And, being a reasonably perceptive chap, I decided to interpret “Carry on!” as encouragement rather than an urgent plea to keep practising.

A Very Special Gift

Anna also gave us all beautiful little paintings, created in egg tempera.

Now this was something quite different.

The painting was an incredibly thoughtful gift, and one I’ll treasure.

There was another lesson from the morning, too. Egg tempera is not a technique to be mastered in a few hours. Developing the sensitivity, precision and understanding of colour that Anna brings to her work takes years of observation, practice and patience.

Our three hours had been no more than the first tentative steps on what promised to be a very slow journey.

A journey undertaken, appropriately enough, at a snail’s pace, although judging by Anna’s beautiful little painting, even the snail was considerably further along than I was.

After months admiring Anna’s work from afar, it had been a real pleasure to spend the morning learning from her in person, and I came away with something rather more valuable than a rudimentary understanding of egg-tempera technique, a renewed appreciation for the importance of observation, patience and simply taking the time to look.

Three hours had disappeared almost without my noticing, which, considering my normal ability to become distracted by the prospect of lunch, was quite an achievement.

Fortunately, lunch was next.

And Kitchen in the Wild had something rather splendid waiting for us in the Village Hall.

Lunch in the Village Hall – Not Quite Cullen Skink

By lunchtime, we had gathered in the island’s village hall. There is something rather appealing about eating in a simple communal setting after a morning of activities. It suits the spirit of Kitchen in the Wild perfectly: wonderful food without the need for elaborate surroundings or unnecessary ceremony.

And what arrived was exactly the sort of lunch you want in the Highlands in October.

A generous bowl of rich seafood chowder, served with Saltine crackers.

Now, I initially found myself thinking of Cullen skink, that celebrated Scottish soup traditionally made with smoked haddock, potatoes and onions.

But this wasn’t Cullen skink.

It was a considerably more varied seafood affair, with visible shellfish, chunks of vegetables, sweetcorn and finely chopped herbs in a creamy, deeply comforting broth. The bowl looked magnificent, its pale golden liquid dotted with orange, yellow and green, with pieces of seafood generously distributed throughout.

Alongside came long, crisp saltine crackers, providing something suitably crisp and salty with which to accompany the chowder.

Simple food, generously prepared, and precisely what the moment called for.

Our drinks were served in the blue enamel Kitchen in the Wild mugs, which were rapidly becoming part of the character of the whole experience. Practical, robust and delightfully informal.

There was also a pleasing contrast between the morning’s artistic pursuits and the straightforward pleasure of sitting around a table enjoying an excellent bowl of soup.

I may not have been able to produce a painting worthy of Anna’s approval, but I felt considerably more confident in my ability to appreciate a good chowder.

We all have our strengths.

A Stag, Some Sunshine and the Sound of Scotland

One of the pleasures of spending time on Eilean Shona is that its wildlife doesn’t appear to have received the memorandum about keeping a respectful distance from the guests, among the afternoon’s sights was a magnificent red deer stag, standing in the grassy woodland amongst the trees and autumn bracken.

There is something particularly impressive about seeing a red deer in its natural surroundings. The stag’s antlers, dark neck and thickening autumn coat gave it an unmistakably commanding appearance, even while engaged in the comparatively undignified business of eating grass.

For a while, it seemed perfectly content to continue grazing.

Then it lifted its head.

Quite magnificent.

The contrast between the dappled sunlight, lush green grass and copper-coloured bracken made the scene especially beautiful.

October is also the season of the red deer rut, when mature stags compete for access to females, their deep roaring calls carrying considerable distances across Highland glens. I had spent part of the previous day contemplating animal carvings made thousands of years ago in Kilmartin. Now here was the living subject, looking directly at me.

I felt the prehistoric artists had been onto something.

We were also treated to the unmistakable sound of the bagpipes, played by Matt, our naturalist and guide later that day, he was very good.

There are few sounds more closely associated with Scotland, although hearing pipes in the open air, surrounded by woodland and Highland scenery, is rather different from encountering them outside a busy tourist attraction.

Their music has a remarkable capacity to fill the landscape, and I have to say that the combination of tartan, a piper, a nearby stag and some unexpectedly beautiful sunshine suggested Scotland was making a determined effort to deliver the full promotional package.

All we needed now was a rainbow.

Although the weather had rather different plans for the afternoon.

The Afternoon – Life Jackets On

After lunch came our first proper expedition onto the water.

Matt Waterston’s expertise would now come into its own as we prepared to explore Loch Moidart and the surrounding coastline aboard the RIB, there is something undeniably exciting about travelling in a rigid inflatable boat. Particularly when you have spent the morning in the civilised surroundings of a beautiful house, enjoying poached eggs and experimenting with egg tempera.

Now it was time for waterproofs, life jackets and the altogether less predictable business of Scottish maritime weather.

The island’s landing stage was framed by woodland, old stone buildings and shoreline exposed by the tide, in the sunshine it looked wonderfully peaceful. The sort of setting that encourages the entirely reasonable assumption that the weather might remain pleasant for the rest of the afternoon.

An assumption Scotland was about to correct.

Four Seasons in Twenty Minutes

Setting off across Loch Moidart, we were treated to a remarkable demonstration of Highland meteorology.

One moment there was blue sky and sunshine illuminating the surrounding hills. The next, dark clouds were gathering, the wind was picking up and the water was developing an altogether more energetic character.

Then came intense rain.

Then sunshine again.

And, for good measure, another threatening bank of cloud.

It was as though somebody had decided to demonstrate all four seasons in approximately twenty minutes, without bothering to consult those of us sitting in the boat.

The changing conditions made the landscape look quite extraordinary. As sunlight moved across the hills, individual stands of trees glowed against the darker slopes, while the water shifted from a bright reflective blue to a much moodier slate grey.

The scenery was constantly transforming.

And, as we rounded one of the headlands, Castle Tioram appeared once again.

What an extraordinary sight.

The castle stood in silhouette upon its rocky island, the low autumn sunshine breaking through the clouds behind it and scattering silver light across the water. Having photographed it during the previous day’s journey, I was delighted to see it again from a different perspective, the weather had provided its own theatrical lighting.

Admittedly, it had also made certain that everyone aboard appreciated the practical value of waterproof clothing.

But one shouldn’t complain when Scotland offers this much atmosphere free of charge.

The Wildlife of Loch Moidart

Our expedition was about rather more than enjoying the scenery. The sheltered waters, rocky shores and islands of Loch Moidart support an extraordinary variety of wildlife, and exploring by boat gives you an entirely different perspective from anything available on land, and among the highlights was a seal resting on the exposed shoreline.

It appeared entirely untroubled by the conditions, occupying a comfortable-looking patch of rock with the air of an animal perfectly satisfied with its afternoon arrangements.

Seals are wonderfully expressive creatures, and there is something particularly appealing about observing one stretched out on the shoreline, apparently contemplating the world with considerably less urgency than most of us. The dark, wet rocks, bright green seaweed and beautifully mottled coat made a striking photograph.

Meanwhile, Matt helped bring the surrounding landscape and its wildlife into focus, drawing upon his considerable experience of exploring Scotland’s western coastline.

It was exactly the sort of expertise that made Kitchen in the Wild so appealing.

One moment we could be discussing the delicate details of botanical illustration with Anna Koska; a few hours later, we were out on the water discovering a completely different aspect of the same extraordinary environment.

And then, of course, there was the lobster.

A magnificent specimen, held up for everyone to admire, with Matt explaining its features and behaviour, its impressive claws offered a useful reminder that not every ingredient encountered during a culinary adventure is necessarily enthusiastic about participating.

I was perfectly happy to maintain a respectful distance.

Seafood is one thing.

Having it defend itself is quite another.

A Different View of the Island

As the afternoon continued, the boat carried us past wooded headlands, sheltered inlets and rocky shores, distant islands revealing just how varied and beautiful this part of the Scottish coastline really is.

From the water, Eilean Shona and its neighbouring coastline felt wonderfully remote. The woodland descended almost to the shore, interrupted occasionally by exposed rock and narrow stretches of beach. Above it, the hills wore their autumn colours beneath an enormous, ever-changing sky.

At times, the sun illuminated entire sections of the landscape while neighbouring hills remained beneath dark cloud, I had spent months researching the island and the surrounding area, poring over maps, photographs and historical accounts, trying to imagine what it would actually feel like to be here, then the sky opened up and it chucked it down again!

No amount of preparation quite captures the experience of travelling across these waters, with the wind on your face, the Highlands rising around you and the weather changing almost by the minute. This was what I’d come for.

Of course, I’d also come for the food.

And after a morning of artistic endeavour, an excellent seafood lunch and an afternoon exploring the coastline, I was beginning to develop a very healthy appetite for whatever the kitchen might have planned for us next.

From Waterproofs to Whisky – An Evening with Nick Strangeway

Having spent the afternoon experiencing approximately four seasons in twenty minutes aboard the RIB, returning to the warmth and comfort of Eilean Shona House was particularly appealing. It had already been a wonderfully varied day. A magnificent breakfast, three absorbing hours exploring egg tempera with Anna Koska, seafood chowder in the Village Hall and an afternoon discovering Loch Moidart from the water with Matt, the awesome guide.

By any reasonable standard, that would have constituted a fairly full programme.

Kitchen in the Wild, however, was not quite finished with us. At seven o’clock, we were gathering in the sitting room for a Classic Whisky Cocktails masterclass with Nick Strangeway, followed at eight by dinner cooked by Nathan Outlaw.

Now, I have always believed in continuing one’s education.

Particularly when the curriculum involves whisky!

Nick was one of the familiar faces I’d been so pleased to see again on the island, having met him at a previous Kitchen in the Wild event. Widely regarded as one of Britain’s most accomplished bartenders, he has spent decades exploring the history, ingredients and craftsmanship of drinks, bringing a genuine depth of knowledge to a subject that is sometimes treated as little more than an excuse to shake something enthusiastically in front of an audience.

With Nick, a cocktail is never simply a list of liquids poured into a glass. There is history, provenance, balance and an extraordinary understanding of how ingredients interact, and whisky provides a particularly interesting starting point.

Unlike a neutral spirit, it brings considerable character of its own: the influence of grain, fermentation, distillation, oak and maturation, together with the distinctive traditions of the regions and distilleries that produce it. Creating a successful whisky cocktail therefore involves rather more than finding something sweet to pour into it, it requires an appreciation of what is already there, and how other flavours can complement rather than overwhelm it.

A reassuring philosophy, I thought.

Especially after discovering the three miniature bottles of Nc’nean waiting for us at Tioram Cottage. Scotland was clearly providing opportunities for further study at an encouraging rate. The atmosphere in the sitting room was relaxed and convivial, with everyone settling in after the day’s activities, exchanging stories and preparing for another splendid evening.

And there was something rather lovely about being back in the company of old friends. Val, Clare and Nick had already made my previous Kitchen in the Wild experience so memorable that joining them again felt less like attending an organised event and more like returning to a particularly interesting gathering of friends.

Admittedly, friends with somewhat more impressive credentials than the average dinner party, and friends who had a rather worrying ability to make the consumption of excellent food and drink appear educational.

A Few Little Things Before Dinner

One of the joys of these evenings was that dinner did not begin abruptly with everyone being marched into the dining room at the appointed hour, instead, we had time to gather, chat, enjoy our drinks and sample a succession of beautifully prepared little appetisers.

Nathan’s menu for the evening began with two rather splendid propositions:

Potted lobster on toast and crispy oysters with celery and grapes.

The lobster arrived generously piled onto a small piece of crisp, golden toast, its sweet flesh bound in a rich, creamy dressing with herbs and a little fresh dill, it was an excellent example of why Nathan is so highly regarded for his seafood cookery. There was no unnecessary complication, no elaborate architectural arrangement and certainly no attempt to disguise the principal ingredient.

Just beautiful lobster, thoughtfully prepared, with the toast providing exactly the contrast it needed.

Small enough to eat in a couple of mouthfuls, and good enough to make you wish somebody had produced an entire tray.

Then came the crispy oysters.

Now, an oyster served raw, with nothing more than a squeeze of lemon or a little mignonette, is a wonderful thing, but not mine!

But this was a rather different interpretation, presented in its magnificent natural shell, the oyster had been coated and cooked to produce a crisp, golden exterior, then topped with a delicate mixture of celery and grapes.

The combination was inspired, and bloody delicious!

Oysters have a distinctive marine richness, and cooking them this way introduces a particularly enjoyable textural contrast: a crisp coating giving way to the tender oyster within and the celery brought freshness and crunch, while the grapes offered little bursts of sweetness and acidity, cutting through the richness.

And serving the whole thing in its own shell was a lovely touch.

The original packaging, as it were.

Biodegradable, attractive, and conveniently designed to prevent the contents escaping, one suspects nature had been considering the hospitality industry long before we arrived.

The opening cocktail listed on the menu was a Raspberry Manhattan, a suitably elegant beginning to what was rapidly developing into a rather promising evening, and then it was time to head through for dinner.

Nathan Outlaw – A Seafood Masterclass Without Leaving the Table

The previous evening, Valentine Warner had introduced us to Kitchen in the Wild with a wonderful opening dinner.

Tonight it was Nathan Outlaw’s turn.

Nathan hardly needs an introduction to anyone with an interest in British seafood cookery. His career has been built around an exceptional understanding of fish and shellfish, developed through years of working with outstanding ingredients and some of the country’s most respected chefs. Having trained at Thanet College, he worked in London before moving to Cornwall, where his time with Rick Stein helped establish the direction his career would take. Interestingly he historically hated seafood, who could tell?

He went on to build his own highly acclaimed restaurants in Port Isaac, earning two Michelin stars for his former flagship Restaurant Nathan Outlaw — a remarkable achievement for a restaurant devoted entirely to seafood. His approach has always appealed to me: allowing superb ingredients to remain the stars of the plate, while bringing tremendous skill and judgement to the accompanying flavours.

There is often more sophistication in knowing what to leave out than in finding another six things to add.

And looking at the evening’s menu, we were in for something special.

Once again, the dining room looked magnificent, its exuberantly coloured walls and candlelit table providing a wonderfully intimate setting. Menus were waiting at our places, the glasses were ready, and conversation flowed easily around a group that was already becoming increasingly comfortable in one another’s company.

A day’s shared experiences has that effect, particularly when those experiences include being bounced around a Scottish loch in the torrential rain.

Smoked Trout, Cheddar Scone and Pickled Cucumber

The first seated course was smoked trout pâté, cheddar scone and pickled cucumber, an appealing combination of rich smoked fish, savoury cheese and sharp, refreshing pickle. It continued the theme established by the evening’s appetisers: familiar ingredients, treated with care and brought together in ways that made perfect culinary sense.

The accompanying cocktail was a Douglas Fir and Damson Collins.

Douglas fir, with its wonderfully aromatic, resinous character, brought a particularly appropriate sense of the surrounding woodland into the drinks programme, while damson offered the sort of tart fruitiness that works so well in a refreshing Collins. It was a lovely example of how Nick’s approach complemented the setting. The drinks weren’t simply there to accompany the food; they had a personality and sense of place of their own.

And then came a dish I had been particularly looking forward to.

Langoustine and Tomato Beurre Blanc

Langoustines are amongst the finest shellfish found in British waters, sometimes called Dublin Bay prawns or Norway lobsters, they possess a delicate sweetness and firm, succulent flesh, requiring remarkably little intervention when the quality is right.

And this was a beautiful plate.

A generous piece of langoustine sat upon a carefully arranged bed of greens, surrounded by a glossy tomato beurre blanc. Small pieces of tomato (concasse), fresh herbs and the rich, pale orange sauce provided an attractive contrast to the langoustine’s delicate flesh.

A beurre blanc is traditionally made by emulsifying butter into a reduction, producing a sauce with richness, acidity and a beautifully silky texture. Here, the addition of tomato gave the classic preparation another dimension, bringing its gentle sweetness and acidity to a dish that was fundamentally about celebrating the langoustine.

And what a lovely balance it was.

The seafood remained the centre of attention, with the sauce providing richness without overwhelming its natural flavour.

A very Nathan Outlaw kind of dish, I thought, elegant, precise and utterly confident.

The printed wine pairing was Granville Basalt Chardonnay 2023, from Oregon’s Willamette Valley, a region particularly celebrated for its cool-climate wines. A fitting accompaniment to such delicate shellfish and a rich butter-based sauce.

Cod, Hazelnuts, Red Wine, Mushrooms and Capers

The next course presented an altogether different side of seafood cookery.

Now, pairing a substantial white fish with red wine might initially appear surprising to anyone brought up on the old convention that fish must always be accompanied by white wine.

Nathan had explained his wish to cook a cod dish, the variety being extremely difficult to get for his restaurants in Cornwall. Cod has a wonderful ability to work with deeper, more savoury flavours, particularly when its flesh is sufficiently thick and carefully cooked.

And Nathan’s dish was a magnificent demonstration.

A beautifully cooked piece of cod occupied the centre of the plate, its thick white flakes contrasting with a savoury mixture of mushrooms beneath and a generous coating of finely chopped hazelnuts and herbs. Around it were two sauces: a lighter, buttery element and a deep, glossy red-wine reduction.

The composition was striking.

The hazelnuts introduced a gentle roasted character and subtle texture, while the mushrooms brought an earthy depth. Capers provided their distinctive sharp, salty punctuation, ensuring the dish never became too rich or heavy, and that red-wine sauce gave the whole plate an unexpected sense of warmth and substance.

It was the sort of fish dish that could quite comfortably hold its own against many traditional meat courses.

The wine pairing was Jean-Michel Dupré Morgon ‘Côte du Py’ 2022, from Beaujolais. Morgon is one of the region’s celebrated crus, and Côte du Py is particularly associated with structured, characterful Gamay wines.

A red wine alongside cod, scandalous, perhaps, to the more inflexible members of the old wine-and-food establishment, but rather splendid in practice, and a timely reminder that good cooking is not particularly interested in arbitrary rules.

The Man Behind the Menu

One of the pleasures of Kitchen in the Wild is the opportunity to meet the people responsible for creating the food, rather than experiencing their work solely through a restaurant menu.

Nathan spoke to the group during the evening alongside Tim, who has worked for him for over 15 years, and the photograph captures that lovely informal atmosphere: chefs and guests sharing the same space, with the extraordinary mural providing a suitably colourful backdrop.

There was an enormous amount of skill involved in delivering an evening like this, and Nathan’s reputation may quite rightly have been a considerable draw, but the execution depended upon a dedicated team of talented chefs and supporting staff, all working together to ensure that each course appeared beautifully prepared and at precisely the right moment.

It is easy, when enjoying a relaxed evening around a candlelit table, to overlook the planning, preparation and sheer hard work taking place behind the scenes, particularly somewhere as remote as Eilean Shona, where forgetting an ingredient is unlikely to be resolved by popping down to the nearest supermarket.

The whole operation appeared effortless, which is, of course, generally a reliable indication that an extraordinary amount of effort has gone into it.

Chocolate, Whisky and a Rather Civilised Conclusion

And finally, dessert.

Chocolate slice with whisky and vanilla cream and raspberries.

A combination that promised richness, a touch of Highland spirit and enough fresh fruit to provide at least a theoretical argument for nutritional balance.

The presentation was beautifully restrained. A long, immaculate slice of chocolate dessert like a strip of Twix bar!, with distinct layers beneath a smooth, glossy chocolate surface, accompanied by a generous quenelle of vanilla cream, fresh raspberries and a vivid raspberry sauce.

The contrast of colours was striking: deep chocolate brown, pale cream and the brilliant red of the fruit, it tasted every bit as indulgent as it looked. The richness of the chocolate was balanced by the freshness and gentle acidity of the raspberries, while the vanilla cream provided a lovely soft counterpoint, whisky added a further dimension to a dessert that was, in all respects, a thoroughly satisfying conclusion to the meal.

And because Nick Strangeway was in residence, dessert was accompanied by a Woodruff Old Fashioned.

Woodruff is a fragrant woodland herb, traditionally appreciated for its sweet, hay-like aroma and subtle vanilla associations, and its inclusion brought another little connection to the surrounding natural world, while the Old Fashioned provided a fitting final expression of the evening’s whisky theme.

A lovely way to finish.

One Very Full Day

By the time we rose from the table, it was well after ten thirty, I’d begun the morning at six, wide awake and far too excited to sleep.

Since then, I’d enjoyed an exceptional breakfast, spent three hours discovering the art of egg tempera with Anna Koska, eaten a magnificent seafood chowder, explored Loch Moidart by RIB through several competing weather systems, attended a whisky cocktail masterclass and finished with a wonderful dinner from one of Britain’s finest seafood chefs.

Not bad for a Friday.

And all of it made possible by a remarkable collection of people, from the celebrated names we’d been so looking forward to meeting to the immensely capable chefs, organisers and island staff quietly ensuring that everything happened as it should. There was a warmth to the whole experience that went well beyond the food, the scenery or the splendid accommodation.

It was the pleasure of being amongst people who loved what they did, generously sharing that enthusiasm with the rest of us. Eventually, it was time to make my way back to Tioram Cottage, where Ruth, Tim and I were staying, and contemplate the prospect of another day.

The itinerary suggested that Saturday would offer a choice of walking or painting, a demonstration from Nathan and, later, a rather intriguing Fire Pit Dinner, I also noticed that the optional morning swim and sauna remained available, and naturally, I gave this some serious consideration.

For approximately the same three seconds as the previous morning.

Breakfast was at 7:30.

Some traditions are worth maintaining.

………………… Until Next Time …………….. L8ers …………………

Kitchen in the Wild – Old Friends, New Faces and Some Serious Culinary Pedigree

Having finally arrived on Eilean Shona, it was time to exchange the relative solitude of several days exploring Scotland for something rather different.

People, and not just any people, as it turned out.

One of the things I’d been looking forward to most about Kitchen in the Wild was the opportunity to catch up with some familiar faces. I’d previously attended another event with Valentine Warner, Clare Isaacs and Nick Strangeway, so there was a lovely sense of returning to something I already knew would be rather special.

There is something reassuring about arriving somewhere remote and discovering a few old friends, particularly when those friends happen to include a celebrated chef, one of Britain’s most accomplished food-event organisers and a man who knows more about making a proper cocktail than most of us will ever know about drinking one!

Although I’m perfectly prepared to continue my research into the latter!

The atmosphere was wonderfully informal from the outset. This wasn’t going to be one of those rather stiff culinary experiences where guests sit reverentially while a famous chef presents something impossibly small on an enormous plate, Kitchen in the Wild operates on a different philosophy altogether.

It’s about bringing people together in extraordinary surroundings, sharing food, stories, experiences and an enthusiasm for the natural world. The boundaries between chefs, hosts, artists and guests are deliberately relaxed, creating something closer to a particularly well-organised house party, albeit a house party where the catering arrangements are in an entirely different league.

And the more I discovered about the people who had gathered on Eilean Shona, the more I appreciated just how unusual this particular collection of talent really was.

Valentine Warner and Clare Isaacs – The Masterminds

At the heart of it all were Valentine Warner and Clare Isaacs, founder of wearesprout.

Val is considerably more than a television chef. A trained artist who subsequently pursued cooking, he became widely known through his BBC series What to Eat Now, bringing an infectious enthusiasm for seasonal ingredients, fishing, foraging and the pleasures of cooking things that actually taste of where they come from. His books ( I own all 6 ) and broadcasting have consistently explored the relationship between food and the natural environment. He’s equally at home discussing an unusual wild mushroom, the merits of a particular fish or the botanical complexities of a good gin, which makes him an ideal person to spend several days with on a remote Scottish island.

Clare, meanwhile, possesses a rather extraordinary talent for making seemingly improbable culinary adventures actually happen.

After a decade working in the music industry, she helped pioneer the idea of putting chefs centre stage at festivals. Her subsequent career has included overseeing the food programme at Wilderness, bringing the celebrated Meatopia festival to London and Dublin, and collaborating with Valentine on Kitchen on the Edge in Norway’s spectacular Lofoten Islands.

Through wearesprout, she has developed an impressive international network of chefs, artists, makers and hospitality professionals, creating intimate food-led experiences in remarkable locations. The fact that we were all about to spend several days together on a private Scottish island was testament to that ability. And she make a perfect Earl Grey with Lemon, (thanks Sprout).

I suspect Clare could organise a Michelin-starred dinner halfway up Ben Nevis if somebody gave her sufficient notice.

Possibly even without it.

Nick Strangeway – An Old Friend and a Very Good Reason to Have a Cocktail

Another familiar face was Nick Strangeway, whose presence made the gathering feel even more like a reunion.

Nick is something of a legend in British cocktail circles, although I suspect he’d be happier being called a bartender than a mixologist.

Having worked alongside the influential Dick Bradsell during the emergence of London’s modern cocktail scene, Nick went on to establish an international reputation for his knowledge of spirits, flavour and the history of drinks. In 2008, he was named International Bartender of the Year at Tales of the Cocktail.

He’s also one of the co-founders of Hepple Spirits, alongside Val and their fellow collaborators, creating remarkable spirits inspired by the wild juniper and other botanicals growing on the Hepple Estate in Northumberland. Hepple Gin was to form a component of many of the unique and stunning cocktails we were to sample over the coming days. It’s a fascinating meeting of science, nature and traditional distilling, demonstrating that a gin can be every bit as considered and ingredient-driven as a dish prepared by a great chef.

Having enjoyed Nick’s company at a previous event, I was particularly pleased to see him again. I should probably clarify that this was entirely because of his delightful personality and not simply because he makes exceptionally good drinks.

Although the two are, admittedly, difficult to separate.

Nathan Outlaw – A Master of Seafood

Our special guest chef was Nathan Outlaw, one of Britain’s most highly regarded seafood specialists.

Nathan’s restaurants in Port Isaac, Cornwall, have earned international acclaim, with his cooking built around an uncompromising commitment to the quality, sustainability and seasonality of British fish and shellfish. His flagship restaurant, Outlaw’s New Road, has held two Michelin stars, an achievement that places him amongst the country’s most distinguished chefs.

What makes his approach particularly appealing is its apparent simplicity. Rather than overwhelming an exceptional ingredient with unnecessary complications, Nathan allows the fish itself to remain the centre of attention, using carefully judged combinations of flavour, texture and technique.

It’s an approach that requires enormous skill. There is, after all, nowhere to hide when the principal attraction is a beautifully cooked piece of fish. Nathan and Valentine are also longstanding friends, having previously travelled and cooked together for their television series Hook It, Cook It.

Reuniting them on an island surrounded by Scotland’s magnificent coastal waters seemed an inspired idea.

Jon Spiteri – A Man Who Helped Change British Dining

Then there was Jon Spiteri.

Now, for anybody with an interest in the history of modern British restaurants, this was a particularly significant addition to the gathering. Jon was one of the three original founders of St. JOHN, alongside chef Fergus Henderson and restaurateur Trevor Gulliver. Before its opening, Jon had managed the dining room above Soho’s famous French House, where Fergus and Margot Henderson had established a devoted following.

In October 1994, Jon, Fergus and Trevor opened St. JOHN in a former smokehouse near Smithfield Market in London, what followed was nothing short of a culinary revolution.

St. JOHN became internationally celebrated for its pioneering nose-to-tail philosophy, championing traditional British cooking, forgotten cuts, offal and a respect for the entire animal at a time when much of fashionable restaurant culture was heading in a very different direction. Bone marrow and parsley salad became one of its defining dishes, while its uncompromisingly straightforward approach to food helped influence an entire generation of chefs.

It remains one of London’s most important and distinctive restaurants. Jon wasn’t simply somebody who had worked there.

He had helped create it, rather extraordinary company for dinner, I thought.

Johnny Kiernan – The Next Generation of St. JOHN Thinking

There was another interesting connection in the shape of chef Johnny Kiernan.

Johnny’s professional background includes working at St. JOHN, Rochelle Canteen and Llewelyn’s, three establishments associated with thoughtful, ingredient-led British cooking. He subsequently became Head Chef at Lettice Events, developing his experience across intimate private dining, weddings and large-scale culinary events, before establishing himself independently.

His cooking celebrates seasonal produce, generosity and an uncomplicated appreciation of good ingredients. What particularly appealed to me was having Jon and Johnny together in the same gathering.

One had helped establish St. JOHN and its influential philosophy; the other represented a later generation of chefs who had worked within that tradition and carried its principles into their own cooking.

A rather lovely continuity.

And certainly more interesting than discovering that two people at a dinner party happened to have attended the same school!

Tim Barnes – The Talent Behind Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen

Also amongst the culinary talent was Christian Timothy Barnes, known as Tim.

Tim’s career is an excellent example of what can happen when natural ability meets an opportunity and a great mentor. He originally joined Nathan Outlaw’s operation as a kitchen porter, gradually became involved in food preparation and, encouraged by Nathan, undertook formal training as a chef. He progressed through the business to become Head Chef at the Michelin-starred Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen in Port Isaac, taking responsibility for the day-to-day running of one of Cornwall’s most respected seafood restaurants.

That is quite a journey.

Working so closely with Nathan, Tim has developed an intimate understanding of seafood cookery, the importance of exceptional produce and the precision required to deliver consistently outstanding food. It also demonstrated that Kitchen in the Wild hadn’t simply assembled a collection of famous names.

There was serious culinary expertise throughout the team, including people whose work normally happens behind the scenes rather than in front of television cameras.

Anna Koska – Bringing the Natural World to Life

Next in this remarkable collection of talents was Anna Koska, the acclaimed natural-history artist and illustrator.

Anna has spent more than 25 years capturing the extraordinary beauty and intricacy of fruit, vegetables, plants, animals and the natural world, illustrating more than 100 books along the way.

Working in watercolour, pen and ink, oils and especially ‘egg tempera‘, she produces exquisitely detailed images that combine artistic sensitivity with the observational precision of a natural historian.

Her own books, From Field & Forest and From Coast & Cove, explore the changing seasons and the sometimes overlooked details of the British countryside and coastline.

I particularly liked the inclusion of an artist amongst so many culinary professionals, as it reinforced the idea that Kitchen in the Wild wasn’t simply about eating.

It was about looking more closely, appreciating the environment, understanding ingredients and perhaps rediscovering some of the curiosity about the natural world that everyday life has a habit of squeezing out of us.

Although, given my own artistic abilities, I suspected any attempt to draw a recognisable botanical specimen might result in something resembling a particularly distressed cabbage.

Matt Waterston – A Life Less Ordinary, Preferably Outdoors

And completing this rather extraordinary gathering was Matt Waterston, an experienced outdoor adventurer, sea-kayaking and mountain guide, and founder of MW Guiding.

Matt’s relationship with the great outdoors goes considerably beyond enjoying the occasional pleasant walk. His adventures have included cycling across Canada and living in the Arctic, although despite exploring some of the world’s most remarkable landscapes, he’s remained convinced that Scotland’s west coast takes some beating.

An opinion I was rapidly coming to share.

Based near Arisaig, Matt established MW Guiding in 2021, specialising in bespoke adventures across the western Highlands and surrounding coastline. His activities range from guided sea-kayaking expeditions and overnight bothy trips to mountain walking, Munro ascents, mountain biking and wildlife encounters.

Rather more ambitious, I suspect, than my occasional stroll around the garden to inspect the progress of the tomatoes.

What makes Matt particularly interesting, however, is his connection with the landscape itself.

Together with his wife Hannah, he featured in Tide Life, a beautifully filmed short documentary produced by the internationally respected paddlesports company NRS. The film explores their life on Scotland’s west coast, their passion for the surrounding environment and the extraordinary relationship between the landscape and those who choose to make it their home.

Matt also knows Eilean Shona and its surrounding waters particularly well. His previous guided kayaking trips around the island have included encounters with its resident wildlife, including seals and their pups, offering visitors an entirely different perspective on this remarkable environment.

There was something rather reassuring about having someone with that level of experience leading our outdoor explorations, after all, I had already demonstrated a remarkable ability to complicate a straightforward lunch stop, so allowing somebody else to take responsibility for navigating the Scottish wilderness seemed an entirely sensible arrangement.

Together, Matt and Anna Koska brought a wonderful additional dimension to Kitchen in the Wild.

Anna’s extraordinary artistic eye reveals the intricate beauty of plants, animals, fish and the changing seasons, while Matt’s experience provides an opportunity to get out into the landscape and appreciate those things in their natural surroundings.

One helping us look more closely, the other helping us explore more deeply and both reinforcing something that makes Kitchen in the Wild rather special: exceptional food may bring everyone together, but the surrounding natural world is every bit as important to the experience.

Although I was still very much looking forward to dinner!

A Rather Extraordinary House Party

Taken together, this was an exceptional gathering.

A chef and broadcaster whose enthusiasm for wild food has inspired countless people; an event creator who has brought together some of the world’s finest culinary talent; a Michelin-starred seafood master; one of the founding figures behind one of Britain’s most influential restaurants; outstanding chefs from its wider culinary tradition; an internationally celebrated drinks expert; and an artist whose work reveals the natural world in exquisite detail.

And here they all were, on a small island off Scotland’s western coast, sharing their knowledge, cooking, conversation and enthusiasm with a relatively intimate group of guests.

The remarkable thing was how relaxed it all felt.

There was no sense of being separated from the experts or attending a succession of formal demonstrations. We were simply going to spend time together, exploring, eating, drinking, learning and undoubtedly enjoying a fair amount of laughter along the way. For me, the added pleasure of catching up with Valentine, Clare and Nick made it feel like renewing an old acquaintance, while meeting the others promised a fascinating few days ahead.

The only slight problem was remembering everybody’s name.

I had spent months researching five thousand years of Scottish history, producing detailed guides and memorising the locations of prehistoric monuments scattered across Argyll, yet introduce me to six people in quick succession, on top of the 15+ guests some traveling as far as America and my brain apparently decides that names are entirely optional information. Still, I felt sure we’d all become properly acquainted soon enough, particularly with several days of extraordinary food and wine ahead.

And our first evening was about to begin in considerable style.

Valentine Warner was in the kitchen.

The menu had arrived.

And the opening dinner suggested that nobody was planning to ease us gently into the proceedings.

Welcome to Kitchen in the Wild.

Let the feasting commence.

The First Evening – Valentine Sets the Table

With introductions underway, luggage deposited and the first awkward moments of meeting a roomful of new people gradually disappearing, we gathered for our opening dinner at Eilean Shona House.

There is something rather lovely about the first supper of an experience like this. Everyone arrives with different expectations, different backgrounds and, in my case, a slightly unreliable grasp of everybody’s names. Yet bring people together around a table, offer them something good to drink and serve a beautiful meal, and conversation generally takes care of itself.

The house provided a wonderful setting. Its comfortable sitting room, warm lighting, painted timber walls and relaxed atmosphere made it feel less like arriving at a hotel and more like being welcomed into a particularly interesting private home.

And this evening, Valentine Warner was responsible for dinner.

The printed menu was a promising piece of reading in its own right.

It brought together seafood, game, autumnal ingredients and some intriguing combinations of flavours, accompanied by carefully chosen wines and cocktails. No decisions to make, no menu anxiety and no wondering whether somebody else’s choice would turn out to be better.

For once, I was entirely happy to relinquish control.

A Little Something to Begin

The evening opened with three distinctly different canapés: beef tartare and smoked oyster, a mussel and saffron empanada, and a rosehip gimlet to sip.

The pairing of beef tartare with smoked oyster was particularly intriguing. Beef and oyster have a long culinary association, but introducing smoke to the oyster added another savoury dimension to the combination: the richness of the beef meeting the saline character of the shellfish.

The mussel and saffron empanada offered something quite different, bringing together sweet shellfish, the distinctive perfume of saffron and the pleasure of a pastry-wrapped mouthful.

And then there was the rosehip gimlet.

With Nick Strangeway amongst our company, drinks were always likely to be rather more interesting than a hurried gin and tonic. The inclusion of rosehip seemed especially appropriate for October in the Highlands, drawing upon an ingredient associated with hedgerows, autumn and the natural world beyond the windows.

It was an assured beginning. A few carefully considered flavours, an excellent drink and the promise of considerably more to follow.

Grilled Squid, Chermoula and Romesco

Our first plated course was grilled squid with chermoula and romesco sauce, accompanied by Corvers Kauter Baiken Riesling 2024 from Germany’s Rheingau.

The dish was presented with a pleasing lack of fuss, its components gathered in the centre of a beautiful, pale ceramic bowl. Beneath the golden topping and squid lay the warm reddish tones of the romesco, with a little of the dressing collecting around the base.

The choice of accompaniments was inspired.

The two sauces made particularly good companions for the squid. Chermoula brought the fragrant, citrus-led freshness of North African cooking, with its lively combination of herbs, garlic and warm spices. Romesco offered a contrasting character: roasted red peppers, garlic and nuts creating a rich, gently smoky sauce with a mellow peppery warmth and just enough acidity to keep everything lively.

Together, they gave the delicately sweet grilled squid a wonderful balance of freshness, depth and warmth, each contributing something quite different without overwhelming the seafood.

Together, they provided a wonderful contrast to the delicacy of the squid.

The Riesling was an equally thoughtful choice. Its freshness and aromatic character made it a natural companion for seafood and the mildly spicy Romesco and assertive herbal flavours.

It was a dish that neatly illustrated Valentine’s approach to cooking: ingredients and influences drawn from different places, brought together through an understanding of what makes them work, with a bit of punch.

By this point, I was very much looking forward to what came next.

Duck, Cep Sauce and a Magnificent Platter

The main course was announced simply enough:

Duck with cep sauce, pommes frites, and frisée and walnut salad.

What arrived at the table, however, was rather more spectacular than those few words might suggest.

Several generous platters of duck appeared, beautifully browned skin gleaming in the dining-room light. The breasts had been carefully carved into thick slices, revealing the rosy meat beneath, while the legs retained their wonderfully crisp-looking skin.

Presented together on handsome blue-and-white platters, it was an exceptionally appetising sight.

There is something deeply satisfying about this style of serving. Rather than individual portions emerging from the kitchen as identical little arrangements, the food arrived as a magnificent centrepiece to be shared.

It immediately became part of the occasion.

The duck was accompanied by a cep sauce, bringing the rich, earthy, woodland character of porcini mushrooms to the meat. It was a wonderfully appropriate autumnal combination, particularly given our location amongst Eilean Shona’s extensive woodland.

Alongside came pommes frites and a frisée and walnut salad. The crisp, slightly bitter leaves and walnuts provided contrast to the richness of the duck, while the chips fulfilled their traditional and thoroughly important responsibility of making an excellent meal even better.

The accompanying red was Domaine Coursodon Saint-Joseph ‘Silice’ Rouge 2023, from France’s northern Rhône Valley.

Made from Syrah, Saint-Joseph is particularly well suited to dishes of this character, its savoury, peppery qualities providing a lovely partner for duck and the earthy depth of the cep sauce.

A glorious main course, generous, beautifully presented and entirely without unnecessary complication.

It is sometimes easy to forget, amid the more theatrical end of modern gastronomy, just how wonderful a plate of properly cooked meat, an excellent sauce and good potatoes can be.

Not that I have ever needed much persuading on the subject of potatoes!

Peach, Bay and Sea Buckthorn

Dessert brought the evening back towards the wilder, more botanical influences that make Kitchen in the Wild so distinctive.

The menu described it as peach roulade with bay and sea buckthorn, followed by the flavours of sea buckthorn, whisky and cacao.

The roulade arrived in a pale ceramic bowl, topped with glossy, amber-coloured peach and surrounded by a rich-looking sauce.

It was an interesting combination.

Peach offers fragrant, familiar sweetness, but bay and sea buckthorn introduce rather less conventional flavours. Bay has a gentle aromatic quality that can be surprisingly effective in sweet preparations, while sea buckthorn, with its vivid orange berries and pronounced sharpness, brings an unmistakable brightness.

Native to parts of Britain’s coastline, sea buckthorn is one of those ingredients that seems particularly appropriate to an event celebrating the relationship between food and landscape.

The addition of whisky and cacao to the final flavour combination gave the dessert a distinctly grown-up character.

It was a fitting conclusion to a menu that had moved confidently between land and sea, familiar pleasures and more adventurous ingredients.

More Than Just a Dinner

By now, the room had settled into the comfortable rhythm of a very good evening. Conversation was flowing, plates had been cleared, and those tentative first introductions had given way to the sort of relaxed exchange that only seems to happen when people are gathered around a long table with no immediate reason to leave it.

What struck me most was the atmosphere, for all the remarkable professional achievements represented in the room, there was none of the formality that sometimes accompanies high-profile food events.

Everyone was simply there to enjoy themselves, share their enthusiasm and take part in something rather special.

And behind the scenes, of course, an enormous amount of work was taking place.

Valentine’s dinner might have carried his name, but creating an experience of this quality requires a considerable supporting cast: skilled chefs preparing and finishing dishes, people ensuring service flows effortlessly, those organising drinks, looking after guests, managing the house and dealing with the thousand-and-one practical details that most of us never even notice.

The best hospitality has a wonderful way of making all that effort appear almost invisible.

Over the coming days, I would come to appreciate that aspect of Kitchen in the Wild just as much as the food itself, particularly the people who seemed capable of producing a cup of Earl Grey at precisely the moment I began thinking one might be rather nice.

An essential skill, and one that deserves considerably more recognition in the hospitality industry.

But for now, I was simply enjoying the moment.

Outside, darkness had settled over Loch Moidart. The mainland, the car, the maps and my increasingly ambitious sightseeing itinerary were all somewhere behind me. I had finally arrived on Eilean Shona.

The food had been exceptional, the company fascinating and the setting every bit as atmospheric as I’d hoped, and this was only the first evening.

After nineteen months of anticipation, Kitchen in the Wild had begun in considerable style. Tomorrow would bring our first full day on the island, with time to discover more of its extraordinary landscape, wildlife and culinary possibilities, and for once, I had absolutely no intention of making an itinerary.

Well, perhaps not a printed one.

………………….. Until Next Time ………….. L8ers ……………..

Day Four – To the Edge of Britain, Then Into the Wild

Thursday 8 October 2026 | Ardnamurchan, Ancient Volcanoes and the Long-Awaited Journey to Eilean Shona

Nineteen Months, Several Guidebooks and a Slightly Excessive Amount of Planning

Thursday morning and the day had finally arrived. After nineteen months of anticipation, countless hours researching Scotland’s history, geography and culinary possibilities, and a considerable amount of time spent wondering whether I really needed another map, today was the day I would finally join Kitchen in the Wild on Eilean Shona. The official rendezvous wasn’t until about 4:00pm, however, which presented something of an opportunity. An entire morning and early afternoon to explore, naturally, I’d planned accordingly.

Those who know me will appreciate that I rarely approach a journey armed with nothing more than a vague sense of direction and a willingness to see what happens. My preparations had involved researching historic buildings, plotting possible routes, investigating ancient settlements, comparing viewpoints and producing my own rather substantial printed travel guide.

This was supplemented by a small library of Ordnance Survey Explorer maps, several books on Scottish castles, archaeology and Highland history, and enough supplementary reading material to suggest I was preparing for a fairly demanding examination.

I had maps for Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, with routes, diversions and potential stopping points carefully considered.

Whether all this preparation was strictly necessary for a holiday involving a few days of cooking on a remote Scottish island is debatable.

But I’d thoroughly enjoyed putting it together.

And if civilisation collapsed somewhere west of Fort William, I was reasonably confident I could navigate my way to the nearest prehistoric burial cairn to camp up for a few Millenia.

A Morning Worth Getting Up For

The morning view from Loch Shiel was a considerable improvement on the previous day’s rather enthusiastic rainfall. I went for a walk before breakfast, beyond the foreground of trees and cultivated ground, the hills stretched across the horizon beneath a wonderfully textured sky. Wisps of cloud clung to the higher slopes, while occasional breaks allowed the early light to pick out the folds and contours of the landscape.

It was the sort of view that makes you linger just a little longer before getting into the car.

The day’s principal objective was Ardnamurchan Lighthouse, situated at the most westerly point of mainland Britain.

Getting there involved driving through some exceptionally beautiful countryside, much of it along the sort of roads where passing another vehicle requires a degree of mutual understanding, occasional reversing and a willingness to accept that the person coming towards you might be considerably more confident than you are, but this was precisely why I’d allowed myself the extra days before the island adventure.

The journey was as much a part of the experience as the destination.

Along Loch Sunart – A Landscape With a Fiery Past

Heading west along the Ardnamurchan Peninsula, the scenery began to change once again.

Wooded slopes, sheltered stretches of water and little glimpses of the sea gradually gave way to a more rugged landscape. The road twisted around hillsides, occasionally opening onto magnificent views across Loch Sunart.

There is something rather special about this part of Scotland. It feels increasingly remote without ever becoming monotonous. Every bend seems to reveal another combination of mountains, water, woodland and rocky shoreline.

And there was another reason I’d been particularly interested in making this journey, I was about to drive through the remains of an enormous prehistoric volcano.

Well, prehistoric is rather understating matters.

Approximately 60 million years ago, during the early opening of the North Atlantic Ocean, Ardnamurchan was the site of substantial volcanic activity. As Greenland and Europe began moving apart, molten rock rose through the Earth’s crust, creating a vast volcanic complex. Over millions of years, erosion stripped away much of the original volcano, exposing the remarkable geological structures beneath.

Today, the western peninsula contains one of Britain’s most celebrated examples of a volcanic ring complex: overlapping, roughly circular arrangements of igneous rock formed deep beneath the ancient volcanic system. The landscape I was driving through wasn’t simply picturesque Highland scenery.

It was the deeply eroded plumbing of a volcano.

And after the previous day’s investigation into 5,000 years of human history, I was beginning to appreciate that Scotland could make even the Neolithic seem relatively recent.

Land of the Rings – Ardnamurchan’s Ancient Volcano

A stop at one of the geological viewpoints offered a particularly good opportunity to understand what I was looking at.

The information panel explained the origins of the surrounding mountains, including the overlapping volcanic centres that make Ardnamurchan internationally important to geologists. Much of the landscape’s distinctive shape is the result of resistant igneous rocks surviving while softer surrounding material was gradually worn away.

The great volcano itself disappeared long ago, but its underlying structures remain written across the hills, it was a stunning view, like all the views on this trip!

Looking out over the landscape, I found it extraordinary to imagine what this place must once have been like. Not quite the peaceful combination of grassy slopes, grazing animals and occasional passing cars that I was enjoying.

More molten rock, violent geological upheaval and generally rather poor conditions for a picnic!

And then there was another rather splendid discovery: a second information board highlighting the archaeological heritage of western Ardnamurchan.

As well as its remarkable geology, this comparatively remote peninsula has evidence of human occupation stretching back thousands of years, including prehistoric remains, burial sites and later settlements.

Following my excursions around Kilmartin Glen, I was particularly pleased to discover that even here, among the remains of an ancient volcano, there were more archaeological possibilities waiting to be investigated, unfortunately, I did have somewhere to be at 4:00pm.

One has to draw the line somewhere.

Ardnamurchan Lighthouse – As Far West As You Can Go

Eventually, the road delivered me to Ardnamurchan Point, and what a place.

The landscape becomes increasingly exposed as you approach the headland. Trees give way to low vegetation, scattered rocks and open moorland, while the sea begins to dominate almost every direction.

Then, rising above the rocky coastline, stands the magnificent Ardnamurchan Lighthouse.

Completed in 1849, the lighthouse was designed by Alan Stevenson, a member of Scotland’s extraordinary lighthouse-building dynasty and uncle of the author Robert Louis Stevenson. The Stevenson family were responsible for designing many of Scotland’s most important lighthouses, often in extraordinarily difficult and dangerous locations.

Ardnamurchan’s tower stands approximately 35 metres high, constructed from granite quarried on the Isle of Mull. Its architectural design incorporates unusual Egyptian-inspired details, particularly visible around the lighthouse buildings and upper structure, its light was first exhibited on 5 October 1849, meaning my visit came almost exactly 177 years after it first began guiding mariners through these hazardous western waters.

The station’s early years were not without incident. In 1852, a severe storm brought a lightning strike that damaged the tower, shattered windows and tore away sections of the surrounding walls and access road. The lighthouse was eventually automated in 1988, bringing an end to the era of permanently stationed keepers.

Today it remains an operational aid to navigation, watching over one of the wildest stretches of Britain’s coastline, and geographically speaking, *I couldn’t drive much farther west without requiring a boat.

(*Source: Northern Lighthouse Board – Ardnamurchan Lighthouse.)

The View From the Edge

Of course, as impressive as the lighthouse itself is, the surrounding scenery provides an equally compelling reason to visit.

From Ardnamurchan Point, the views stretch across the waters of the Inner Hebrides towards the Small Isles and, in suitable conditions, beyond.

Muck, Eigg, Rum and the distant outline of Skye all form part of this remarkable western seascape.

The weather was doing its usual Scottish best to provide a little of everything.

Great banks of cloud gathered over the Atlantic, occasionally allowing shafts of sunlight to illuminate the water. The sea appeared almost metallic beneath the grey sky, while the dark, jagged coastline offered an impressive reminder of the forces that had shaped this headland.

Standing there, I was struck by just how much history had passed through these waters.

For centuries, the western seaways were not barriers separating isolated communities but important routes connecting Scotland, Ireland, the Hebrides and Scandinavia.

Long before modern roads, these islands and coastal settlements were linked by boats carrying people, livestock, trade goods and occasionally considerably less welcome visitors.

Having spent the previous days exploring Viking history, medieval castles and the emergence of the early Scottish kingdoms, it was rather satisfying to look out across the very waters that had helped shape so much of that story.

A spectacular place.

Although perhaps not somewhere I’d particularly fancy being during a February gale.

An Enormous Red Foghorn

While exploring the lighthouse complex, I also encountered a wonderfully conspicuous piece of maritime engineering.

The great red horn is a reminder that even the most powerful lighthouse has its limitations. Before modern electronic navigation, fog signals were an essential means of warning vessels approaching dangerous coastlines when visibility was too poor for a light to be seen, and this particular piece of equipment was not exactly designed with subtlety in mind.

It looked rather like an oversized musical instrument constructed for someone with an exceptionally serious disagreement with the neighbours, I was quite relieved it wasn’t demonstrating its capabilities!

Between the remote setting, the engineering, the exposed coastline and the views towards the Hebrides, Ardnamurchan had thoroughly justified the drive.

But there was another place nearby that I’d been keen to see, and it involved rather more sand than I had expected to encounter in the Highlands.

Sanna Bay – An Unexpected Highland Paradise

Not far from Ardnamurchan Point lies Sanna Bay, a beautiful stretch of coastline renowned for its pale sand, dunes and remarkable views towards the Small Isles. The surrounding area forms part of the ancient volcanic landscape, and the contrast between the dark, rugged hills and the lighter coastal scenery is particularly striking.

There is something almost improbable about finding beaches like these so far north, in fact on a bright summer’s day, the photographs could easily be mistaken for somewhere considerably warmer.

The surrounding landscape, however, is unmistakably Scottish: open hills, exposed rock, sweeping skies and the ever-present possibility that the weather might change its mind without consulting anyone.

What I particularly enjoyed about this part of the journey was the sheer variety.

Within a relatively short distance, I’d encountered ancient volcanic structures, historic coastal settlements, magnificent island views, secluded bays and one of Britain’s most remarkable lighthouses.

All on a Thursday morning, and all before lunch.

It was almost enough to make my extensive itinerary seem entirely reasonable.

The Return Journey – Priorities, Priorities

Unfortunately, time was now becoming a consideration. Kitchen in the Wild was due to begin at 4:00pm, and although I was thoroughly enjoying my explorations, I still had to retrace much of the peninsula before heading towards the Eilean Shona departure point.

The road back was every bit as enjoyable as the outward journey.

There is something rather wonderful about travelling the same Highland road in the opposite direction. Features you hadn’t noticed suddenly become obvious, familiar views take on an entirely different character, and occasionally the clouds part to reveal an entirely new landscape.

The sheltered waters of Loch Sunart gradually came back into view, its wooded slopes descending towards the shoreline, and somewhere along the way, I decided it was time for a cup of tea, not that I was particularly desperate for refreshment, you understand.

But I had spotted somewhere rather promising during my research.

An Excellent Discovery – The Lochview Tearoom

The Ardnamurchan Natural History Visitor Centre was an ideal place to break the return journey.

Situated near Glenborrodale, overlooking Loch Sunart, the centre celebrates the remarkable wildlife and natural environment of this remote peninsula.

Ardnamurchan is home to an extraordinary variety of species, including red deer, otters, pine martens, golden eagles and white-tailed sea eagles. Its ancient Atlantic oakwoods, sheltered lochs and rugged coastline provide some of the finest wildlife habitats in western Scotland. All thoroughly fascinating, of course, but my immediate attention was drawn to the Lochview Tearoom.

After several hours exploring windswept headlands, volcanic landscapes and historic maritime engineering, I felt I’d earned something considerably more civilised.

Tea.

And cake.

Specifically, an absolutely magnificent date, banana and walnut cake.

Moist, rich and wonderfully satisfying, with the natural sweetness of the fruit and the welcome texture of walnuts, it was exactly the sort of homemade cake that makes you reconsider whether a single slice is an adequate serving. It was delicious, that good I forgot to take a picture like I would usually do!

Indeed, had I not been expected elsewhere that afternoon, there was a reasonable chance I might have ordered another and spent the rest of the day investigating the establishment’s other baked offerings. A cup of tea, an excellent piece of cake and a beautiful Highland setting.

Sometimes the simplest stops turn out to be among the most enjoyable.

Suitably refreshed, it was time to resume the journey, I had an island to catch.

Towards Loch Moidart – The Final Miles

The remaining drive carried me away from the relative familiarity of Loch Sunart and towards the quieter roads leading to Loch Moidart, once again, the landscape changed.

Woodland gave way to open moorland, with rusty autumn bracken spreading across the hillsides. Occasional stretches of water appeared between the trees, while low mountains formed a seemingly endless succession of ridges along the horizon.

This was the Scotland I’d been hoping to find when I first began planning the journey. Not the grand tourist attractions or famous viewpoints, wonderful though those had been, but the quieter places in between. Little roads, isolated stretches of coastline and scenery that seems entirely unconcerned with whether anyone is there to admire it.

And somewhere ahead lay Eilean Shona.

The island that had started this entire adventure.

Nineteen Months Later – The Eilean Shona Jetty

Eventually, I arrived at the mainland departure point for Eilean Shona, near Dorlin on Loch Moidart, there was something wonderfully appropriate about the location. No bustling ferry terminal, enormous departure lounge or queue of cars waiting to board.

Just a small jetty, wonderfully peaceful surroundings and the waters of Loch Moidart stretching towards the island.

Eilean Shona is a private, car-free island of approximately 2,000 acres, with woodland, rocky coastline, sheltered beaches and a fascinating history of its own. Perhaps its most famous literary association is with J. M. Barrie, who rented the island in the 1920s. It is frequently associated with the imaginative world of Peter Pan, although the famous play itself predates Barrie’s visits.

The island’s great attraction is its relative isolation. Accessible by boat, without public roads or the usual trappings of modern tourism, it offers an opportunity to experience an increasingly rare combination of wilderness, tranquillity and genuine escape.

And for the next few days, it would also become the setting for something rather special.

Kitchen in the Wild.

The whole reason I’d started planning this adventure in the first place.

Espresso at the Jetty – The Outin Makes Another Appearance

Having arrived in good time, I found myself with a little while to wait before everyone gathered for the transfer, which presented an obvious opportunity. Out came the Outin portable espresso machine once again.

After its successful inaugural field test at Rest and Be Thankful, the little rechargeable device was rapidly establishing itself as one of my more inspired purchases. Water, a GRIND coffee capsule, a press of the button and a few moments later I had a freshly extracted espresso.

No café required, no electricity socket, no need to ask whether anyone had oat milk, just a decent coffee, a quiet Highland jetty and the prospect of finally reaching an island I’d been looking forward to visiting for nineteen months.

I was beginning to think this little machine might become a permanent travelling companion.

The Guests Begin to Arrive

Gradually, the quiet jetty began to acquire a little more activity. The other guests started arriving, bringing luggage, introductions and the unmistakable atmosphere of people who were about to embark upon something they had all been looking forward to. This was the moment when the trip began to feel quite different.

For the previous three days, I’d been travelling extensively, following my own itinerary and indulging whatever historical, geographical or culinary diversion happened to catch my attention.

Now I was meeting the people with whom I’d be sharing the next stage of the adventure, but there was one small complication.

I’m absolutely hopeless with names!

Faces? Usually fine.

Conversations? No problem.

But introduce me to several people in quick succession and I can almost guarantee that by the time the fourth person has told me their name, the first three have disappeared into some inaccessible filing cabinet within my brain. I can, apparently, retain obscure details about a sixth-century Scottish saint, the construction of a Victorian lighthouse and the geological origins of a 60-million-year-old volcano.

But remembering the name of someone I’ve just shaken hands with? Entirely different proposition.

Still, everyone seemed extremely enthusiastic, the introductions were underway and there was that lovely shared sense of anticipation which comes when a group of relative strangers gathers for a common adventure. After all, we had something rather important in common.

An appreciation of good food, beautiful surroundings and the opportunity to experience something a little out of the ordinary.

The Adventure I’d Actually Come For

Standing beside Loch Moidart, I found myself reflecting on just how much had happened since arriving in Scotland.

Glasgow’s extraordinary history, Bombay-inspired breakfasts, medieval cathedrals, ancient burial chambers, prehistoric animal carvings, standing stones, magnificent castles, Highland roads, excellent seafood, questionable lunch arrangements, an Italian sandwich that had more than compensated for them, and now a journey to the very western edge of mainland Britain.

I’d certainly made the most of those extra days, but this was where the original adventure truly began.

The maps had served their purpose. The guidebooks had been consulted, the diversions enjoyed and the hire car had transported me safely through an impressive selection of Scottish roads. Now it was time to leave all that behind.

Ahead lay several days of island life, exploring, eating and, I hoped, making some new friends. The boat would take us across Loch Moidart towards Eilean Shona, where the Kitchen in the Wild team was preparing to welcome us.

Nineteen months of waiting had finally come down to this.

One small jetty.

A gathering of enthusiastic strangers.

A collection of bags.

And one last espresso.

Kitchen in the Wild, Scotland 2026.

At last.

Although, before we departed, I really ought to have made another attempt at remembering everyone’s names…

Rain, Rituals and 5,000 Years of Secrets (Part 3)

Day Three – Rain, Rituals and Five Thousand Years of Secrets

Kitchen in the Wild: The Long Way to Eilean Shona

A Rather Damp Start to Five Thousand Years of History

Wednesday morning, 6:30am.

I was wide awake, excited and ready to go. After months spent researching Scotland’s ancient past, and finally arriving in Kilmartin the previous evening, today was the day I’d been particularly looking forward to, first things first, however. A cup of tea.

Pulling back the curtains revealed that Scotland had thoughtfully arranged some traditional weather for the occasion.

It was absolutely pissing down!

Not a gentle Highland mist, nor the occasional romantic shower drifting across the glen. Proper, persistent rain. The sort that makes you question the wisdom of leaving a perfectly comfortable bed, particularly when your day’s itinerary involves wandering around wet fields looking at large rocks.

Still, I’d travelled several hundred miles, produced a professionally printed guide of more than 55 pages and spent countless evenings investigating ancient burial practices, mysterious standing stones, prehistoric migrations and the origins of early Scottish civilisation, I wasn’t about to be defeated by a bit of water.

Tea consumed, camera equipment gathered and waterproofs brought into service, it was time to go hunting stones.

Kilmartin Glen – Where Five Thousand Years of History Lie Beneath Your Feet

There is something quite extraordinary about Kilmartin Glen.

At first glance, it’s a beautiful stretch of Argyll countryside: rolling green fields, woodland, low hills and the occasional scattered farmhouse. But look a little closer and the landscape begins to reveal something altogether more remarkable.

Within a relatively small area lie hundreds of archaeological sites, including burial cairns, standing stones, stone circles, fortified settlements and mysterious rock carvings. Some date back more than 5,000 years. To put that into perspective, people were constructing ceremonial and burial monuments here during the Neolithic period, long before the Roman Empire existed and centuries before the great pyramids of Egypt were built.

And unlike an archaeological collection housed neatly behind glass in a museum, much of Kilmartin’s extraordinary history remains out in the landscape, where successive generations left their mark. You can walk between monuments, study enormous stones and, in some cases, peer into burial chambers constructed by communities whose names, languages and beliefs have long since disappeared.

The remarkable thing is that nobody left an instruction manual.

Archaeologists can learn a great deal from their tools, pottery, burial practices and surviving monuments, but precisely what many of their ceremonies meant, why particular locations were chosen and what significance they attached to certain arrangements of stones remains tantalisingly uncertain.

Which, naturally, makes the whole business considerably more intriguing.

Who Were These People, and Where Did They Come From?

One question had particularly occupied me during my pre-trip research.

Who exactly were the people responsible for constructing these extraordinary monuments?

Were they descendants of Scotland’s earliest hunter-gatherers? Had they arrived from elsewhere? And how did communities living in what we now regard as a relatively remote corner of Scotland come to share ideas, materials and artistic traditions with people living hundreds, sometimes thousands, of miles away?

Modern archaeology, particularly the extraordinary advances made through ancient DNA analysis, has begun to reveal a much more complicated picture.

The first great transformation came around 4000 BC, with the arrival of Neolithic farming communities in Britain.

Their deeper ancestry can be traced to early farming populations originating in Anatolia, part of modern-day Turkey, from where agriculture gradually spread across Europe. One important route followed the Mediterranean and Atlantic seaboard through Iberia and western Europe before eventually reaching Britain.

These newcomers brought a fundamentally different way of life. Farming, domesticated animals, pottery and the construction of substantial ceremonial and burial monuments increasingly became part of a landscape previously occupied by communities dependent primarily upon hunting, fishing and gathering.

They also brought different ways of honouring their dead, some of which survive in the great stone monuments we’re still attempting to understand today, but that wasn’t the end of the story.

Around 2450 BC, Britain began experiencing another major population transformation associated with the arrival of people belonging to the Bell Beaker cultural phenomenon. These migrants had strong genetic connections with populations in north-western continental Europe, particularly around the Lower Rhine, and carried substantial ancestry ultimately derived from pastoralist populations of the Pontic-Caspian steppe.

And here’s where things become particularly interesting.

Ancient DNA research indicates that, over the centuries following their arrival, approximately 90% of Britain’s earlier Neolithic genetic ancestry was replaced. That’s an extraordinary demographic change. It doesn’t mean 90% of Kilmartin’s inhabitants suddenly vanished, but it does demonstrate just how profoundly migration altered the population of prehistoric Britain over successive generations.

The Beaker period also saw changing burial customs, including a greater emphasis on individual burials accompanied by carefully selected possessions, alongside developments in pottery, metalworking and wider material culture.

Suddenly, the landscape of Kilmartin begins to make considerably more sense, its monuments weren’t all constructed at once, nor necessarily by people sharing identical customs, ancestry or beliefs. The glen developed over many centuries, reflecting successive generations and changing ideas about life, death and remembrance.

And it wasn’t only people who travelled.

Prehistoric communities were connected through surprisingly extensive networks of exchange. Materials such as Arran pitchstone, Irish flint and Yorkshire jet moved considerable distances, while artistic ideas and symbolic traditions also spread between communities.

The remarkable spiral carvings associated with Ireland’s Boyne Valley, for example, form part of a much wider Atlantic prehistoric artistic tradition. Such connections don’t necessarily prove that the same people travelled between every location, but they demonstrate that these communities were far from isolated. The map brings these different strands together: two major population movements separated by around 1,500 years, followed by wider networks through which materials, skills and ideas circulated.

I found this particularly fascinating.

Here was a landscape that successive communities, living thousands of years apart, continued to recognise as somewhere important enough to bury their dead, construct monuments and leave their mark upon the stone.

What made this particular glen so significant?

That’s the question I’d come to explore.

And here I was, several thousand years later, standing in the Scottish rain with a camera, a printed guide and the considerable advantage of a hire car, at least I didn’t have to walk here from Anatolia!

Dunchraigaig Cairn – The Deer Beneath the Stone

One of the places I’d been particularly keen to explore was Dunchraigaig Cairn, a prehistoric burial monument that has yielded one of Scotland’s most remarkable archaeological discoveries.

And from a distance, it doesn’t exactly announce itself.

A low, grass-covered mound, scattered stones and a small opening beneath an enormous slab of rock. Without knowing its history, you might easily pass it by, yet concealed beneath that great capstone is something extraordinary.

In 2021, prehistoric animal carvings were identified on the underside of the capstone. Five figures, including two magnificent adult red deer stags, thought to date from the Early Bronze Age, around 4,000 years ago.

These are the earliest known prehistoric animal carvings discovered in Scotland.

What makes the find particularly unusual is that prehistoric Scottish rock art is overwhelmingly abstract. Cup marks, concentric rings and geometric arrangements are relatively familiar features of the landscape, but recognisable representations of animals are exceptionally rare.

Here, hidden beneath a burial monument, someone had taken the trouble to depict creatures that must have held some significance in their world.

And I was determined to see them.

This proved considerably more challenging than anticipated, especially with the considerable downpour and position of the markings meaning some body dexterity was required beyond normal human capability.

The entrance isn’t exactly designed with the comfort of modern visitors in mind, and photographing the underside of an enormous prehistoric stone while negotiating a confined space, damp rocks and a rather awkward camera angle requires a degree of physical improvisation.

Not to mention the fact that the carvings themselves are extraordinarily difficult to distinguish.

The figures were created by painstakingly pecking and working the stone’s surface. Thousands of years of weathering, however, have left their outlines so faint that ordinary photography struggles to reveal them.

Researchers subsequently used high-resolution 3D scanning and digital surface-enhancement techniques to identify and document the individual animals.

The most remarkable is a large red deer stag, affectionately nicknamed the Fabulous Stag, whose sweeping antlers and anatomical details reveal a surprisingly accomplished understanding of the animal.

Interestingly, the carvings are positioned so that the larger stags appear upside down when viewed from inside the burial chamber today. The precise circumstances in which they were created, and whether the stone was decorated before being incorporated into the monument, remain subjects of archaeological interpretation.

The discovery raises some fascinating questions.

Were these animals associated with hunting, social status, spiritual beliefs or something altogether different? Did they hold a particular significance for the people buried here?

We simply don’t know.

But imagine someone thousands of years ago, carefully working the image of a deer into this enormous slab of rock. Not a casual afternoon’s doodling, but a deliberate act requiring considerable time, skill and effort.

And here I was, around four millennia later, attempting to photograph the result with a digital camera while trying not to become permanently wedged beneath the monument.

Progress, of sorts.

My own photographs didn’t reveal the carvings quite as successfully as I’d hoped, so I’ve included a published archaeological reference image to illustrate what is actually concealed within the stone.

Comparing the two gives some idea of just how remarkable the discovery is. Without the benefit of specialist lighting and modern archaeological imaging, these ancient animals might easily have remained unnoticed.

Standing beside what initially appears to be little more than a collection of weathered rocks in a Scottish field, it’s extraordinary to think that someone left these images here thousands of years ago.

And that, perhaps, is what makes Kilmartin so captivating, the more closely you look, the more the landscape begins to reveal.

And I’d barely started hunting stones.

Nether Largie – Standing in the Company of Giants

My next encounter with Kilmartin’s prehistoric inhabitants was only a short distance away, at the Nether Largie Standing Stones.

By now, the Scottish weather had begun to show a little mercy. The rain was easing, although the ground remained thoroughly saturated, and the surrounding fields had acquired that almost impossibly vivid shade of green that Scotland seems able to produce without the assistance of Photoshop.

And there, rising out of the grass, stood six enormous stones.

Four form an arrangement rather like a rough X, with another two standing slightly apart. Weathered, irregular and covered in extraordinary patches of moss and lichen, they command attention despite the apparent simplicity of their construction.

Thought to have been erected during the Middle Bronze Age, roughly 3,000 years ago, these monuments belong to a later chapter of Kilmartin’s prehistoric story than some of the great Neolithic ceremonial sites nearby.

Their precise purpose remains uncertain.

Were they territorial markers, gathering places or monuments associated with religious and ceremonial activities? Various astronomical alignments have also been proposed, although interpreting prehistoric intentions from arrangements of stone requires a certain amount of caution.

Whatever their purpose, somebody went to considerable trouble to select, transport and erect these massive slabs, long before the invention of anything resembling a convenient hydraulic lifting device.

And they weren’t simply left standing without further attention.

Ancient Marks – Leaving Something for Posterity

Moving closer to one of the larger stones, I became fascinated by its surface.

What appeared from a distance to be little more than weathered rock revealed a wonderfully complicated landscape of its own. Great colonies of pale grey lichen spread across the stone, contrasting with brilliant green moss clinging to its upper edges and crevices.

And then there were the small hollows.

Some of the Nether Largie stones bear prehistoric carvings known as cup marks, occasionally accompanied by concentric rings. These were created by repeatedly striking or pecking the rock with a harder stone, gradually forming shallow depressions in its surface.

Simple enough in appearance, but their significance is anything but straightforward.

Similar carvings appear throughout prehistoric Britain and Ireland, particularly in landscapes associated with Neolithic and Bronze Age activity. Some are found on exposed rock surfaces, others on standing stones and burial monuments.

Were they symbolic representations of celestial bodies, markers of significant places, expressions of spiritual beliefs, or something entirely different?

Nobody knows for certain.

Not every hollow in an ancient stone is necessarily prehistoric artwork, of course. Natural weathering can produce remarkably convincing imitations. But the confirmed carvings at Nether Largie add another intriguing layer to an already extraordinary monument.

What particularly appealed to me was the contrast between the immense age of the stone and the delicate living organisms now covering its surface.

Thousands of years of human history, slowly being reclaimed by nature.

And considerably more successful than anything I’ve ever attempted to grow in the garden.

Looking out across the surrounding countryside, the setting itself was magnificent. Great green fields stretched towards distant hills, their upper slopes partially concealed beneath a low blanket of cloud.

It was easy to understand why people might have considered this landscape special, even if the exact reasons behind their extraordinary monuments remain beyond our reach.

There was, however, something else nearby that I’d been particularly keen to explore.

And this one involved considerably more stones.

Temple Wood – A Circle of Life, Death and Mystery

A short distance from Nether Largie lies Temple Wood, one of the most fascinating prehistoric monuments in the glen.

At first sight, it appears to be a great circular arrangement of weathered stones emerging from a broad bed of rounded cobbles, with mature trees and beautiful countryside providing a wonderfully atmospheric backdrop.

But the site is considerably more complicated than it initially appears.

Temple Wood contains the remains of two prehistoric circles, commonly referred to as the northern and southern circles, whose development stretches across approximately two thousand years.

The earliest known activity began around 3500–3000 BC, when a circle of timber posts was constructed at the northern site. This was subsequently replaced, or at least partly replaced, by stone. Around 3000 BC, a larger oval arrangement of approximately 22 upright stones was established to the south-west.

What makes Temple Wood particularly interesting is that its purpose appears to have changed over time.

Initially associated with ceremonial activity, the southern circle was gradually modified. Low slabs were inserted between the standing stones, restricting physical access while still allowing people to see inside. Later, during the Bronze Age, burial cists were incorporated into and around the monument, and much of the circle was eventually filled with a great accumulation of stones.

In other words, what we see today isn’t simply an ancient stone circle.

It’s the surviving result of generations of activity, alteration and remembrance, with each successive community leaving something of its own behind.

The exposed cist is particularly fascinating.

Essentially a small stone-built coffin, it provides a tangible connection with the funerary purpose the site eventually acquired. Excavations at Temple Wood revealed burial-related objects including pottery, flint arrowheads and mineral pigments such as red and yellow ochre.

Remarkably, the only surviving human remain recovered from within the southern circle was a child’s tooth.

A very small fragment of an individual life, preserved within an enormous monument constructed and modified over centuries.

There’s something rather moving about that.

Temple Wood also contains some extraordinary prehistoric artwork. One of its standing stones bears a carved spiral motif reminiscent of designs found in Irish passage-grave art, providing another intriguing connection with those wider Atlantic traditions discussed earlier.

By now, the weather had undergone something of a transformation. The rain had given way to patches of blue sky, and sunlight was beginning to break through the clouds, illuminating the stones and surrounding trees. The change in atmosphere was wonderful. Here was a place that had witnessed thousands of years of human activity, whose builders had disappeared into prehistory, yet whose monument continued to command attention.

What ceremonies took place here? What did these stones represent to the people who first erected them? And why did successive generations continue to return?

We may never know all the answers.

But I suspect the people responsible would have been quietly pleased to discover that, five thousand years later, someone was still wandering around their creation, taking photographs and wondering what on earth they had been up to. My morning amongst the stones had been everything I’d hoped for.

It was, however, approaching the time when archaeology needed to make way for another important human tradition.

Lunch.

Oban – A Return to Civilisation, With Seafood

Leaving Kilmartin behind, I continued north towards Oban.

After a morning spent amongst burial chambers, standing stones and the remnants of prehistoric ceremonies, arriving in this bustling little harbour town felt like stepping forward several thousand years in one rather enjoyable journey. Often described as the Gateway to the Isles, Oban occupies a magnificent position on Scotland’s west coast, its sheltered bay providing an important departure point for ferries serving the Hebridean islands.

And there, crossing the water against a backdrop of distant hills and enormous billowing clouds, was one of Caledonian MacBrayne’s unmistakable ferries.

The harbour was a delightful mixture of working boats, pleasure craft and island ferries, with the surrounding hills providing a wonderfully dramatic setting. I spent some time wandering along the waterfront, taking in the atmosphere and enjoying the fact that, for once, the weather appeared to be cooperating.

Oban has long been associated with fishing, maritime trade and tourism, and there’s something particularly appealing about a town where the sea remains such an obvious part of everyday life. It also seemed an entirely appropriate place to investigate the local seafood.

Having devoted the morning to studying prehistoric burial practices, I thought a change of subject might be beneficial.

Ee-Usk – A Rather Welcome Lunch

After a morning spent exploring the resting places of Scotland’s prehistoric inhabitants, I decided it was time to concentrate on something considerably more appetising.

Lunch was at Ee-Usk, a seafood restaurant overlooking Oban’s bustling harbour. With the waters of the bay, fishing boats and ferries providing the backdrop, it seemed an entirely appropriate setting to sample some of Scotland’s wonderful seafood.

My choice was the oven-baked halibut, accompanied by creamed leeks and potato gratin.

What arrived was a gloriously comforting plate of food. A generous fillet of halibut, its delicate white flesh beautifully cooked, accompanied by a substantial potato gratin with a golden, bubbling cheese topping. Alongside sat a generous helping of finely sliced leeks, softened in cream, with a rich, buttery sauce bringing everything together.

Halibut is a particularly lovely fish. Its firm, almost meaty texture allows it to retain its structure during cooking, yet when treated properly, the flesh separates into wonderfully moist, delicate flakes. Its flavour is mild and subtly sweet, making it an excellent partner for the richness of the accompanying cream.

The leeks provided their gentle onion sweetness, while the gratin contributed a welcome contrast of textures: a lightly golden surface giving way to soft layers of potato beneath. A squeeze of lemon cut through the richness beautifully.

This wasn’t food designed to challenge your understanding of modern gastronomy or leave you searching the plate for the principal ingredient. It was excellent produce, sympathetically cooked, generously served and thoroughly satisfying.

Exactly what I needed.

After spending the morning investigating how prehistoric communities honoured their dead, I was now paying considerably more attention to how the living should be fed.

And Ee-Usk had provided a rather compelling answer.

Oban – Whisky, Architecture and a Little Victorian Ambition

Suitably restored, I continued my wander around the town.

One of Oban’s most recognisable landmarks is its historic distillery, sitting remarkably close to the centre of town, with its distinctive chimney rising above the surrounding buildings.

Established in 1794, Oban Distillery predates much of the modern town that subsequently developed around it.

It’s rather unusual to find a working malt whisky distillery occupying such a central position in a bustling coastal settlement, but the arrangement provides a wonderful reminder of the town’s commercial past. High above the distillery stands another of Oban’s most distinctive features: McCaig’s Tower.

Looking rather like somebody started constructing a Roman Colosseum on top of a Scottish hillside before deciding that the budget had become a little ambitious, the enormous circular structure was commissioned by local banker John Stuart McCaig during the 1890s.

His intention was partly to provide employment for local stonemasons during the quieter winter months, while also creating an enduring monument to his family. The original plans were rather grander than the structure that survives today, incorporating additional towers, galleries and commemorative statues.

McCaig died in 1902, and the ambitious project was never completed.

Nevertheless, what remains is one of Scotland’s more extraordinary Victorian follies, and undoubtedly gives Oban a skyline unlike almost anywhere else. An unfinished monument to personal ambition overlooking a town that had already given me an excellent lunch.

I rather liked the place, but it was time to continue north, as there was another historic structure waiting along the coast, and this one was perched on an island.

Castle Stalker – A Fortress, a Feud and a Rather Familiar Film Location

Continuing north from Oban along the coast towards Appin, the landscape became increasingly spectacular. The road passed between wooded slopes, tidal inlets and magnificent stretches of water, with distant mountains rising beyond the shoreline. And then, across the waters of Loch Laich, appeared one of the most photogenic castles in Scotland.

Castle Stalker stands on a tiny tidal island, its imposing stone tower rising above the water against a backdrop of forested hills and Highland mountains.

It’s one of those views that looks almost too perfectly Scottish to be real.

A medieval tower house, a small island, spectacular scenery and, on this particular afternoon, just enough changing sunlight to make the whole arrangement look as though somebody had organised the weather specifically for my camera. The castle’s origins are associated with the MacDougalls, who are believed to have established a small fortified structure here during the early fourteenth century.

The lands later passed to the Stewarts of Appin, and the present tower house is generally associated with Sir John Stewart of Lorn during the fifteenth century. Like so many Highland strongholds, its history is full of shifting loyalties, family rivalries, political intrigue and the occasional unfortunate disagreement settled with considerably more than a strongly worded letter.

One particularly dramatic episode concerns Sir John Stewart himself, who was fatally wounded outside Dunstaffnage Castle in 1463 by an adversary associated with the MacDougalls. According to the traditional account, he survived long enough to marry the mother of his son, thereby legitimising the child who would become the first chief of the Stewarts of Appin.

A wedding day that could hardly be described as going entirely according to plan.

Castle Stalker subsequently passed between the Stewarts and Campbells before eventually falling into disrepair. Thankfully, twentieth-century restoration secured its survival, leaving us with the wonderfully atmospheric building visible today. And if the castle looks vaguely familiar, there’s another reason. It appeared in the closing sequence of the 1975 film Monty Python and the Holy Grail, portraying the gloriously named “Castle Aaargh”.

A building with centuries of clan warfare, murder and political intrigue behind it, ultimately achieving additional fame thanks to a group of comedians searching for the Holy Grail.

History does occasionally have a rather wonderful sense of humour.

I spent a little time photographing the castle from the mainland, trying different compositions as the light shifted across the water and surrounding hills. The closer view reveals just how substantial the tower is, while the wider photograph captures what makes its setting so extraordinary. It was another of those places where the photograph almost takes itself.

Almost.

By now, I’d travelled from prehistoric burial monuments to a bustling harbour town and onwards to one of Scotland’s most evocative medieval castles, all in the space of a few hours.

And the day’s journey was far from over.

The road north was calling, and somewhere ahead lay the extraordinary landscapes of the western Highlands. Five thousand years of prehistory in the morning, fifteenth-century clan warfare in the afternoon.

Not bad for a Wednesday.

The Corran Ferry – Five Minutes to Another World

Leaving Castle Stalker behind, I continued north along the shores of Loch Linnhe towards the Corran Ferry. By now, the afternoon was moving on, and although I’d packed an extraordinary amount into the day, there was still some distance to cover before reaching my overnight accommodation in Acharacle.

The Corran Ferry provides a vital link between Nether Lochaber and Ardgour, carrying vehicles and passengers across the narrowest part of Loch Linnhe. The crossing itself is wonderfully short, approximately five minutes, but it saves drivers a lengthy diversion around the head of the loch via Fort William.

There’s something rather satisfying about driving straight onto a ferry, switching off the engine and allowing somebody else to take responsibility for forward progress, even if only for a few minutes. The route has provided a crossing between these shores for centuries. In earlier times, it formed part of the wider network of routes used by travellers, traders and cattle drovers moving through the western Highlands.

Today, it remains an essential connection for the communities of Ardnamurchan, Morvern and Ardgour, whose otherwise remote location makes the ferry considerably more important than its short journey might suggest.

And for me, it felt like crossing a threshold.

The busy roads and familiar trappings of civilisation were beginning to disappear, replaced by increasingly narrow stretches of tarmac, wooded hillsides and extraordinary glimpses of the surrounding mountains.

Scotland was becoming distinctly more Scottish.

Strontian – An Unexpected Contribution to the Periodic Table

Continuing west, the road eventually brought me to Strontian, a small village at the head of Loch Sunart. I’d included it in my route partly because of its history and partly because it provided a convenient point on the journey towards Acharacle. In fairness, there wasn’t a great deal happening to encourage an extended visit, but Strontian does have one rather extraordinary claim to fame.

It gave its name to a chemical element.

During the early eighteenth century, deposits of lead ore were discovered in the surrounding hills, prompting the development of a mining industry and the establishment of the village to accommodate its workers. In the late 1780s, scientists studying an unusual mineral associated with the mines discovered that it behaved differently from other substances then known to chemistry.

Further investigation established that it contained a previously unrecognised chemical element, subsequently named strontium after the village. The mineral itself became known as strontianite, while Sir Humphry Davy eventually isolated the metal in 1808. Rather impressively, this modest Highland settlement had managed to secure itself a permanent place on the periodic table.

Strontium compounds are perhaps best known today for producing the brilliant red colour in fireworks and signal flares. So, if you’ve ever admired a spectacular red firework illuminating the night sky, you can thank this little corner of Scotland for the name of the element responsible.

Sadly, Strontian itself wasn’t putting on anything quite so spectacular during my brief visit. other than a shop, cafe and public toilet so with no obvious reason to linger, I continued towards Acharacle, leaving the village to its rather distinguished scientific legacy.

Into Moidart – Where the Landscape Takes Over

The next stretch of the journey was beautiful.

The road wound westwards through woodland, past scattered houses and across an increasingly remote landscape. The mountains rose beyond the trees, their upper slopes disappearing beneath layers of cloud, while occasional breaks in the weather allowed the low evening sunlight to illuminate the hillsides.

This was the Scotland I’d been imagining throughout those months of preparation.

Not simply magnificent scenery, but a landscape where geography had shaped centuries of human history. Mountains, sea lochs and narrow coastal approaches had influenced where people settled, traded, fought and constructed their strongholds.

And nowhere was that relationship more apparent than at my next photographic opportunity.

Castle Tioram – The Fortress Guarding Loch Moidart

I’d been particularly keen to catch sight of Castle Tioram, another remarkable medieval stronghold, standing on the tidal island of Eilean Tioram at the meeting of the River Shiel and Loch Moidart.

The location is extraordinary.

The castle occupies a rocky outcrop overlooking the waterways that once provided an important route between the sea and the settlements further inland. Its position allowed those controlling it to oversee movement through this strategically significant part of the western Highlands.

The surviving structure dates largely from the thirteenth century onwards and became one of the principal strongholds of the MacDonalds of Clanranald.

This was territory steeped in clan politics, shifting alliances and the recurring struggle for influence over the western Highlands and Islands.

Castle Tioram played a central role in that story for centuries, serving as a residence and administrative centre for the Clanranald chiefs. Its eventual abandonment is traditionally associated with the Jacobite rising of 1715, when Allan MacDonald of Clanranald is said to have set fire to the castle to prevent it falling into government hands.

The historical record confirms that the castle was burned in 1715, although, as with so many Highland stories, the circumstances have acquired a little additional colour through generations of retelling.

Today, its roofless walls and weathered stonework make it one of the most atmospheric ruins in the region. And there was another reason I found this particular castle so compelling. Beyond it lay Loch Moidart and Eilean Shona, the island that had been the real destination of this extraordinary journey from the beginning.

After months spent studying photographs, planning routes and imagining what lay ahead, I was finally approaching the place itself.

Although, before the island adventure could begin, there was still the small matter of finding somewhere to sleep.

Loch Shiel Hotel – Almost There

My destination for the evening was the Loch Shiel Hotel in Acharacle, a traditional Highland hotel close to the southern end of Loch Shiel. After a day that had begun in the pouring rain amongst prehistoric monuments, continued through Oban and its excellent seafood, and involved enough medieval castles to satisfy even the most enthusiastic student of Scottish history, I was more than ready to call it a day.

The hotel was perfectly situated for the next stage of the journey, and arriving in the fading evening light brought a welcome sense of having finally reached the western Highlands.

But the adventure was already beginning to take shape beyond the mainland.

The Advance Party – Kitchen in the Wild Gets Underway

One of the more exciting moments of the evening was catching sight of the advance party involved in preparing our forthcoming Kitchen in the Wild adventure.

There they were, heading across the water, already engaged in the considerable business of getting everything ready for the main event, and what an event it promised to be.

Kitchen in the Wild had chosen Eilean Shona for its October 2026 Scottish adventure, bringing together a small group of food enthusiasts for several days of cooking, exploring and celebrating the extraordinary natural produce of Scotland’s west coast.

Joining host and chef Valentine Warner was special guest Nathan Outlaw, one of Britain’s most respected seafood chefs, whose two Michelin-starred restaurants in Port Isaac have established an exceptional reputation for allowing outstanding fish and shellfish to take centre stage.

The programme also included mixologist extraordinaire Nick Strangeway, co founder of the infamous St. John in London, Jon Spiteri and natural-history illustrator Anna Koska, alongside local guides and experts.

The prospect of exploring this remote island, surrounded by magnificent coastal scenery and an abundance of exceptional natural ingredients, had been occupying my thoughts ever since that original email landed in my inbox back in March 2025.

And now, seeing some of the team making their preparations, the whole thing suddenly felt very real indeed.

The anticipation was building.

Rather wonderfully, after travelling through thousands of years of Scottish history, I was now looking forward to something altogether more immediate.

What was for dinner?

And I suspected that, from this point onwards, things were going to become considerably more interesting.

The End of a Rather Extraordinary Wednesday

By the time I settled in at Loch Shiel Hotel for the evening, I had plenty to reflect upon.

I’d begun the day in Kilmartin, contemplating the lives and beliefs of people who had inhabited Scotland thousands of years before recorded history.

I’d crawled around beneath an ancient burial monument attempting to photograph prehistoric deer, wandered amongst enormous standing stones, explored a ceremonial landscape that had evolved over centuries and enjoyed an excellent seafood lunch overlooking Oban’s busy harbour.

Then came medieval strongholds, a ferry crossing, a village named after a chemical element and a magnificent drive through some of the finest scenery Scotland has to offer.

Not a bad day’s work.

And the weather, having started with what appeared to be a personal vendetta against my camera equipment, had eventually decided to cooperate. Kitchen in the Wild wasn’t due to begin until 4:30pm the following afternoon, which meant I still had the best part of Thursday to indulge my curiosity before joining everyone.

Naturally, I’d already planned how to fill it.

There was the small matter of a journey out to Ardnamurchan Lighthouse, perched at the most westerly point of mainland Britain, together with a few other places I’d earmarked during my research. After all, it would have been positively irresponsible to travel this far into the Highlands and not investigate a little further.

So, one more morning of exploration before exchanging the hire car and carefully printed itineraries for boats, island life, exceptional food and the company of a group of people who shared a common enthusiasm for all things edible. Nineteen months after that first email, the adventure I’d originally signed up for was almost upon me.

But first, there was a lighthouse to find.

And knowing Scotland, probably another opportunity to test the waterproofs.

…………………. Until Next Time ………….. L8ers …………….

A Little Bombay Before Several Thousand Years of Scotland (Part 2)

Day Two – Bombay Breakfast, Vikings and the Road to Ancient Scotland

After a thoroughly enjoyable first evening in Glasgow, Tuesday morning arrived, and with it the prospect of finally putting my meticulously researched Scottish itinerary into action. First, however, there was the rather important matter of breakfast.

I’d already earmarked Dishoom, conveniently located around a 10-minute walk from the AC Hotel by Marriott. Their Bombay-inspired breakfast offering had caught my attention during my pre-trip research, and I thought it would make a splendid start to the day. I had purchased the book by the same title some time back and was thoroughly inspired by the stories within.

A little Indian influence in Scotland before heading off in search of prehistoric burial chambers, ancient standing stones and centuries of clan warfare. Why not?

Dishoom occupies part of Glasgow’s magnificent former Stock Exchange building, an extraordinary piece of Victorian architecture that makes quite an impression before you’ve even stepped through the door.

Inside, the atmosphere was warm and inviting, with its wonderfully eclectic mixture of old-fashioned furniture, patterned tables, framed photographs and the unmistakable character of a Bombay café.

Dishoom draws its inspiration from the Irani cafés that became such an important part of Bombay’s social and culinary history. Established largely by Persian immigrants, these were places where people from different communities and backgrounds could gather over tea, food and conversation. Once numerous, the original cafés have steadily declined in number, making Dishoom’s affectionate interpretation of them rather appealing. It certainly made a change from the usual hotel breakfast buffet.

Naturally, there had to be chai.

Served in a simple glass, rich, warming and beautifully aromatic, it was just the thing to get the morning underway. There’s something wonderfully comforting about Indian chai, the combination of strong tea, milk, sweetness and warming spices producing a drink that feels considerably more indulgent than an ordinary cup of tea.

Breakfast itself was a wonderfully colourful affair. A richly spiced chickpea preparation, accompanied by a magnificent puffed puri, pickles and a portion of sweet halwa, Chole Puri Halwa, the chef’s favourite according to the menu.

The puri was quite a spectacle, arriving inflated like an edible balloon, its delicate golden shell practically demanding to be broken into.

The combination of savoury, spicy and sweet made for a rather interesting start to the day. A little of the chickpea curry scooped up with the bread, followed by something sweeter, another sip of chai, and suddenly the prospect of an ordinary bowl of cornflakes seemed deeply uninspiring.

Suitably fortified, it was time to turn my attention from Bombay to something rather older, as I was leaving a pristine paper cup was thrust in my hand, Chai to take-away, now that was service.

Glasgow Cathedral – Where the City’s Story Began

Suitably fortified by my rather splendid breakfast at Dishoom, it was time to check out of the hotel and get the adventure properly underway. A swift checkout was followed by the slightly less swift process of extracting the hire car from the multi-storey car park, whose narrow ramps and unforgiving concrete walls seemed designed to test both my driving skills and the limits of the rental insurance.

Car and driver eventually emerging unscathed, I set off for my next destination: Glasgow Cathedral.

This was somewhere I’d particularly wanted to explore. My pre-trip research into Scotland’s religious history, folklore and considerably darker past had revealed that Glasgow’s magnificent medieval cathedral had rather more stories to tell than its imposing architecture alone might suggest.

The cathedral is dedicated to St Kentigern, better known as St Mungo, Glasgow’s patron saint and a man whose story is an intriguing mixture of early Christianity, royal scandal and some fairly improbable miracles.

According to tradition, Mungo was born around the sixth century, the son of Princess Teneu (also known as Thenew), daughter of a British king, and a nobleman named Owain. His arrival into the world was apparently not universally celebrated. His mother, having become pregnant outside marriage, was condemned by her father and, according to later accounts, cast adrift in a boat without oars. Against considerable odds, she survived, eventually reaching the Firth of Forth, where Mungo was born.

Not perhaps the most conventional start to a distinguished ecclesiastical career.

The young Kentigern was subsequently raised under the protection of St Serf, traditionally associated with Culross, who is said to have given him the affectionate name Mungo, commonly interpreted as ‘dear one’.

He eventually travelled west, establishing a Christian community beside the Molendinar Burn, on the site associated with today’s cathedral. Around this early religious settlement, a community developed that would, over the centuries, become the great city of Glasgow.

But it’s the legends surrounding Mungo that make him particularly interesting.

His exploits are immortalised in Glasgow’s coat of arms, which features four rather unusual symbols: a bird, a tree, a bell and a fish carrying a ring in its mouth.

The bird represents a robin supposedly restored to life by the young Mungo after it had been killed by jealous fellow pupils. The tree recalls an occasion when he miraculously rekindled a sacred fire using a branch after the original flames had been extinguished. The bell is associated with his religious authority and a traditional story connecting it to Rome.

Then there’s the fish.

According to the legend, a queen of Strathclyde had lost a precious ring, which her suspicious husband subsequently demanded she produce. With her position becoming increasingly uncomfortable, she appealed to Mungo for assistance. He instructed a fish to be caught from the River Clyde, and there, rather conveniently, in the mouth of a salmon, was the missing ring.

A remarkable piece of divine intervention, although one suspects the salmon might have had a slightly different interpretation of events.

These stories survive largely through medieval religious biographies, most notably one written by Jocelin of Furness in the twelfth century, some 500 years after Mungo’s lifetime. They’re wonderful examples of Scotland’s early Christian folklore rather than events we can confidently establish as historical fact.

What is far more tangible is the magnificent cathedral itself.

Mungo is traditionally believed to have been buried here around AD 612, and his shrine became an important destination for medieval pilgrims. The great Gothic building we see today was developed largely during the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, with Bishop Jocelin initiating major expansion work in 1181.

Remarkably, Glasgow Cathedral is the only medieval cathedral on the Scottish mainland to have survived the Reformation with its principal structure intact, although its Catholic furnishings were subsequently removed.

So here I was, standing in a building whose origins stretched back to a sixth-century saint, whose supposed miracles still decorate the city’s official coat of arms, and whose final resting place helped give birth to Glasgow itself.

Not bad for a man whose career apparently began with resurrecting a robin.

And what a building it is.

Stepping inside, your eyes are immediately drawn upwards. Great stone columns rise into pointed arches, intricate details emerge from the shadows and the sheer scale of the place makes you wonder quite how medieval craftsmen achieved such extraordinary results without the benefit of modern machinery.

What makes Glasgow Cathedral particularly remarkable is its survival. The Scottish Reformation of 1560 transformed the country’s religious landscape, bringing an end to papal authority and fundamentally changing the way people worshipped. Many medieval churches and cathedrals subsequently lost their furnishings, religious imagery and, in some cases, their very existence.

Glasgow, however, was fortunate. The cathedral survived substantially intact, although its Catholic furnishings and decoration did not escape the changes. Its continued use as a place of Protestant worship helped preserve one of Scotland’s finest examples of medieval Gothic architecture.

A rather impressive survivor, considering Scotland’s occasional enthusiasm for dismantling anything associated with the previous administration.

A Little Colour Amongst the Ancient Stones

One of the things that particularly caught my attention was the stained glass. Set against centuries-old dark stonework, the extraordinary intensity of the colours creates an almost theatrical effect, especially when the light catches them.

Perhaps the most striking was a magnificent arrangement of brilliant blue windows, their modern design contrasting beautifully with the medieval architecture surrounding them.

Interestingly, much of the stained glass we see in Glasgow Cathedral today is relatively modern. The Reformation had swept away the medieval glazing, and although Victorian stained glass was introduced during the nineteenth century, much of this was subsequently replaced during the twentieth century.

The result is a fascinating combination of medieval craftsmanship and contemporary artistic expression, centuries apart but somehow entirely at home together.

I particularly liked the contrast. The building itself speaks of an age when faith was central to almost every aspect of daily life, while the windows demonstrate that even a cathedral approaching 900 years of age can accommodate something new.

Faith, Folklore and a Rather Dangerous Time to Be Different

My interest in Glasgow Cathedral wasn’t entirely architectural, however.

During the months leading up to this trip, I’d spent considerable time exploring Scotland’s darker religious history, particularly the relationship between Christianity, traditional folk beliefs and the persecution of those accused of witchcraft.

For centuries, Scotland’s communities had lived with a fascinating mixture of Christian teachings and much older beliefs. Fairies, healing charms, sacred wells, supernatural encounters and folk remedies were woven into everyday life, especially in rural communities. These weren’t necessarily regarded as contradictory beliefs by the people practising them. A person might attend church on Sunday and still seek assistance from a local healer, carry a protective charm or avoid a particular hillside after dark for fear of disturbing its otherworldly inhabitants.

Following the Reformation, however, religious authorities increasingly sought to regulate such practices, and the passing of Scotland’s Witchcraft Act in 1563 made witchcraft a capital offence.

The consequences could be devastating.

Scotland experienced several major periods of witch-hunting during the late sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Accusations were frequently driven by local disputes, illness, misfortune, suspicion and fear, with women disproportionately represented among those prosecuted. Even King James VI developed something of an obsession with the subject, publishing his treatise Daemonologie in 1597, in which he argued for the reality of witchcraft and the need to suppress it.

An unfortunate time to fall out with the neighbours, particularly if your herbal remedies were more successful than the local physician’s.

Standing inside the cathedral, I found myself thinking about the extraordinary changes in belief that had taken place within these walls. The same building had witnessed medieval Catholic worship, the upheavals of the Reformation and the emergence of a very different religious Scotland.

And just outside, amongst the weathered gravestones, was a reminder that not everyone in sixteenth-century Glasgow was preoccupied with witches and the supernatural.

Some were attempting to drag medicine into the modern world.

Doctor Peter Low – A Man Ahead of His Time

Among the monuments near the cathedral is an impressive memorial to Doctor Peter Low, a rather remarkable Scottish surgeon whose contribution to medicine deserves considerably wider recognition.

Born around the middle of the sixteenth century, Low spent time studying and practising surgery in France before eventually settling in Glasgow. In 1597 he published The Whole Course of Chirurgerie, an important surgical textbook that helped bring together contemporary medical and surgical knowledge in the English language.

Two years later, in 1599, he secured a royal charter from James VI establishing what would eventually become the Royal College of Physicians and Surgeons of Glasgow.

His ambition was to improve medical standards and ensure that those practising surgery and medicine were properly examined and qualified.

This was no small undertaking in an age when medical treatment could be something of a lottery, and the distinction between a trained practitioner, an enthusiastic barber and someone armed with a collection of questionable remedies wasn’t always reassuringly clear.

Low’s original organisation also had responsibility for examining and regulating practitioners, including surgeons and apothecaries, and its foundation represented an important step towards the professional medical institutions we recognise today.

His memorial is an intriguing survivor, tucked away amongst the older stones, and a reminder that Glasgow was developing a serious intellectual and scientific identity long before the Industrial Revolution transformed it into one of Britain’s great commercial cities.

What I particularly enjoyed was the historical contrast.

Here was a city in which religious authorities were grappling with witchcraft and supernatural beliefs while pioneering individuals such as Peter Low were simultaneously attempting to establish more rigorous standards in medicine.

Faith, fear, folklore and emerging science, all occupying much the same period of history.

Scotland in the sixteenth century was certainly never dull.

But fascinating as Glasgow had been, the clock was ticking. I still had an ambitious itinerary ahead of me, and after yesterday’s aviation-related disruption, I was determined to recover at least a little of my carefully prepared schedule.

It was time to leave the city behind.

Next stop, Dumbarton Rock, where the history was considerably older, the defences rather more imposing and the Vikings had once made themselves spectacularly unwelcome.

Leaving Glasgow – The Road to Dumbarton

With my exploration of Glasgow Cathedral complete, it was time to leave the city behind and begin the journey west.

The drive towards Dumbarton provided a fascinating transition. Glasgow’s imposing Victorian buildings, busy streets and industrial heritage gradually gave way to a more open landscape, with the River Clyde becoming an increasingly prominent feature.

For centuries, the Clyde was the lifeblood of Glasgow’s prosperity. Its banks were once lined with shipyards, engineering works and heavy industry, producing some of the finest ships in the world. At its peak, the river was synonymous with Scottish industrial ambition, its shipbuilders helping Glasgow earn its reputation as the Second City of the Empire.

But heading west, the industrial landscape begins to soften. The river broadens, the surrounding hills become increasingly prominent and the sense of approaching a rather different Scotland begins to take hold.

And then, rising dramatically from the landscape, comes Dumbarton Rock.

It’s difficult to miss.

An enormous volcanic outcrop towering above the surrounding countryside, with the remains of one of Scotland’s most historically significant fortifications perched upon it.

Dumbarton Castle – Before Scotland Was Scotland

Dumbarton Rock is a remarkable place, and one I’d been particularly looking forward to photographing.

Long before the medieval castle was established, this great volcanic stronghold was known as Alt Clut, meaning ‘Rock of the Clyde’, and served as the principal fortified centre of the ancient Brittonic kingdom of Strathclyde.

Its position is extraordinary. Rising steeply above the confluence of the Rivers Clyde and Leven, the rock provided an almost naturally impregnable defensive position, commanding the surrounding landscape and an important route into Scotland’s interior.

In AD 870, however, even these formidable natural defences proved insufficient.

Viking forces led by Olaf and Ivar laid siege to Dumbarton Rock in an assault that reportedly lasted four months. Eventually the fortress fell, and according to contemporary Irish annals, the invaders returned to Dublin with an enormous quantity of treasure and captives, carried aboard a fleet said to number some 200 ships.

One can only imagine the reception committee.

The site subsequently became an important royal stronghold, with Alexander II developing the medieval castle during the thirteenth century as Scottish and Norwegian interests competed for influence along the western seaboard.

Its later history reads like a condensed account of Scotland’s political turbulence.

William Wallace was brought here following his capture in 1305 before being handed over to the English. In 1548, the five-year-old Mary, Queen of Scots, was sheltered within its defences before sailing to France. Then, in 1571, during the civil wars surrounding Mary’s reign, the castle was captured in an extraordinary night assault by Thomas Crawford of Jordanhill, whose men scaled the supposedly impregnable rock.

A Viking siege, medieval kings, William Wallace, Mary, Queen of Scots and an audacious military assault.

Not bad for one rather substantial lump of volcanic rock.

A Photographer’s Patience – Somewhat Tested

I was particularly keen to get a decent photograph of the castle, ideally capturing the great rock and its fortifications without too much modern-day interference.

Unfortunately, I wasn’t alone.

A group of people appeared to be conducting a dog-training session in precisely the area I had earmarked for my photographs.

Now, I have absolutely nothing against dogs. Or, for that matter, people training them. But I do have a particular dislike of people appearing in photographs of historic buildings, especially when I’m attempting to capture something that has stood for hundreds of years.

There’s something faintly irritating about composing a photograph of a magnificent medieval fortress, imagining Viking longships approaching along the Clyde, only to have someone in a fluorescent jacket wander into the foreground clutching a bag of dog treats.

Not quite the historical atmosphere I had in mind.

I spent a little time moving around, adjusting the composition and waiting patiently for suitable gaps in the canine activities.

Eventually, I managed to capture the views I wanted, although it did require rather more patience than I’d anticipated.

I suspect the Vikings had an easier time organising their invasion.

With Dumbarton duly photographed, it was time to continue the journey, there was, however, a small problem, I was getting hungry.

The Great Lunchtime Expedition – Or How Not to Find Lunch

I’d already identified a couple of potentially interesting places to stop for something to eat, so finding lunch shouldn’t have presented much of a challenge, famous last words!

The first was a Vietnamese establishment that had caught my attention during my research. I had visions of wonderfully fragrant broths, fresh herbs, perhaps a bánh mì with crisp pickled vegetables and a little chilli. Something light, interesting and full of flavour. Unfortunately, what I discovered bore rather little resemblance to the Vietnamese experience I’d been anticipating.

Burgers and baps appeared to be the order of the day.

Now, there’s absolutely nothing wrong with a decent burger, but when you’ve mentally prepared yourself for the flavours of Vietnam, a bap comes as something of an anticlimax, never mind, time for plan B.

The second establishment looked promising, and I approached with renewed optimism, only to discover that it was closed on Tuesdays, naturally, today was Tuesday.

Two attempts, no lunch!

For someone who’d spent months researching medieval castles, prehistoric monuments, Scottish folklore and the finer points of Highland clan warfare, my inability to locate a decent sandwich was becoming mildly embarrassing, clearly, the 55-page guide had overlooked something important.

Out came the phone for a little emergency culinary research, and before long I’d found something that looked considerably more promising. There was just one slight complication, it meant heading back towards Glasgow. Not exactly the most efficient use of a carefully constructed itinerary, but there are times when culinary considerations must take precedence over geographical common sense. Besides, I’d already lost Stirling Castle to yesterday’s fog. I wasn’t about to lose Tuesday’s lunch to a burger and a locked door.

And that was how I discovered “Mootz”.

Mootz – Now That’s a Sandwich!

Mootz specialises in freshly prepared Italian “schiacciata” sandwiches, and one look at the menu suggested my little detour might prove rather worthwhile.

Schiacciata, originating in Tuscany, is a wonderful olive-oil-enriched flatbread, with a beautifully golden exterior and a light, airy interior. When made properly, it provides the perfect foundation for a generously filled Italian sandwich, and generous appeared to be something of a speciality here.

The menu was full of tempting combinations featuring mortadella, prosciutto, stracciatella, mozzarella, pistachio pesto and assorted other delicious ingredients.

The signature Mootz caught my attention: mortadella, stracciatella, pistachio pesto and crushed pistachios.

A beautifully simple combination, allowing the individual ingredients to shine. The richness of mortadella, the wonderfully creamy stracciatella and the distinctive nutty flavour of pistachio all wrapped in that magnificent bread.

It looked substantial, to say the least.

But, after considerable deliberation, I settled on the Huckleberry, a rather magnificent creation consisting of pistachio mortadella, apricot-glazed ham, porchetta, tomato carpaccio, mozzarella, chimichurri and chilli oil, all generously packed between two substantial slices of freshly baked schiacciata.

This wasn’t so much a sandwich as a carefully engineered construction project.

With my precious cargo safely aboard, it was time to leave Glasgow behind for the second time that day.

I had a particular destination in mind for lunch. Somewhere considerably more scenic than a city-centre pavement, and somewhere I could finally test another of my recent acquisitions.

My little portable espresso machine was about to earn its place in the luggage.

Loch Lomond – An Island with a History of Its Own

Heading north along the A82, the urban landscape gradually disappeared, replaced by wooded hillsides, distant mountains and increasingly impressive views across Loch Lomond.

The loch is the largest freshwater lake in Great Britain by surface area, extending for approximately 36 kilometres from its southern reaches towards the Highland mountains. Its character changes dramatically along its length. To the south, the water is broad and comparatively gentle, scattered with numerous islands, while farther north the mountains close in and the landscape takes on a much wilder appearance.

One island in particular had caught my attention during the pre-trip research.

Inchmurrin.

At approximately 120 hectares, Inchmurrin is the largest freshwater island in the British Isles, and, naturally, it has a rather interesting history.

Named after St Mirin, the early Christian saint associated with Paisley, the island was once an important possession of the Earls of Lennox. During the fourteenth century, a castle was established near its southern end, providing the powerful Lennox family with a secluded island stronghold. Its history became entangled with the political turbulence surrounding Scotland’s medieval aristocracy and the Stewart dynasty. The castle eventually fell into ruin, but its remains survive as another reminder that Scotland’s beautiful landscapes frequently conceal a more complicated past.

I rather liked the idea of an island within a loch, with its own castle, history and centuries of intrigue. And, of course, there was something particularly appropriate about encountering it while travelling towards another island altogether, Eilean Shona, where the culinary part of this adventure was still waiting for me.

But that was a few days away.

For now, I had lunch to consider, and the landscape was becoming increasingly spectacular.

Rest and Be Thankful – A Rather Appropriate Place for Lunch

Continuing along Loch Lomond towards Tarbet, I turned left onto the A83, heading west into the magnificent landscape of the Arrochar Alps. Here the road begins to climb through Glen Croe, winding between imposing mountain slopes towards one of Scotland’s most wonderfully named locations: the Rest and Be Thankful.

The name originates from the eighteenth-century military road constructed through the glen as part of a wider network intended to improve military access through the Highlands.

The old route involved a considerable climb, and travellers reaching the summit were encouraged to stop and appreciate their achievement. An inscription commemorating repairs undertaken by the 93rd Regiment in 1768 helped preserve the wonderfully simple sentiment.

Rest and Be Thankful

Considering the view, it seemed only polite to comply. This was where I finally stopped for my rather delayed lunch.

Surrounded by towering mountains, with the dramatic sweep of Glen Croe stretching away below, I unwrapped my magnificent Mootz sandwich.

And what a setting I’d chosen.

The landscape was spectacular, with great banks of cloud drifting across the mountains, occasional bursts of sunlight illuminating the slopes and the ever-present possibility of the weather deciding to provide a little additional entertainment.

After two failed attempts to find lunch, an unscheduled return towards Glasgow and rather more driving than anticipated, the sandwich tasted all the better for the effort.

The combination of ingredients was inspired. Delicate, silky mortadella provided a lovely richness, complemented by the sweetness of the apricot-glazed ham and the deeper, savoury character of the porchetta. Fresh mozzarella brought a welcome creaminess, while the finely sliced tomato added moisture and a little acidity to balance the cured and roasted meats.

Then came the chimichurri, that wonderfully vibrant herb-based sauce, cutting through the richness with its fresh, garlicky sharpness, while the chilli oil delivered a gentle background warmth.

And holding this magnificent collection together was the schiacciata itself. Golden and lightly crisp on the outside, wonderfully soft and airy within, with that distinctive olive oil character that makes good Italian flatbread such a pleasure to eat.

It was an absolute triumph of contrasting flavours and textures: rich, sweet, savoury, creamy, fresh and just a little spicy, with each ingredient contributing something rather than simply competing for attention.

Sometimes the simplest things are the most enjoyable.

Although I wasn’t quite finished.

Espresso in the Wild – The Inaugural Field Test

Now came another important moment in the adventure.

The first proper outdoor test of my new Outin portable espresso machine.

I’d bought this clever little rechargeable device specifically for the trip, imagining freshly made espresso in some wonderfully remote Scottish setting. Now here I was, surrounded by Highland mountains, armed with my GRIND coffee capsules and absolutely no need to locate a coffee shop.

For those unfamiliar with it, the Outin is a compact battery-operated espresso maker capable of heating water and extracting coffee without requiring mains electricity. It accepts compatible capsules or ground coffee, making it particularly appealing for travelling, camping or finding yourself miles from the nearest decent café.

A little water, a capsule, a press of the button and the machine set about producing a proper espresso.

There’s something immensely satisfying about enjoying good coffee somewhere like this.

No queue, no barista asking for your name and, perhaps most importantly, no paper cup informing you that you’re having an inspirational day.

Just an Italian sandwich, freshly extracted espresso and one of the finest views Scotland could offer.

Civilisation, I decided, is more a state of mind than a geographical location, the name of the viewpoint seemed particularly appropriate.

After my slightly ridiculous lunchtime expedition, I was indeed resting, and extremely thankful.

The Road to Kilmartin – Lochs, Puffers and Five Thousand Years of History

With lunch finally enjoyed and the coffee experiment declared a success, it was time to pack away my little mobile coffee shop and continue west.

The road carried me deeper into Argyll, where the landscape seemed determined to become more spectacular around every corner. The towering mountains gradually softened into wooded hillsides, great stretches of water appeared between the trees, and the late afternoon sunshine was beginning to cast that wonderful golden light across the countryside.

I was also becoming increasingly aware that my camera was rather interfering with my carefully planned timetable. Every bend seemed to reveal another scene demanding attention.

Not that I was complaining.

A Brief Encounter with Loch Fyne

One particularly lovely stop was beside Loch Fyne, where I pulled in near the famous Loch Fyne Oyster Bar.

With the sun beginning to sink behind the surrounding hills, the view was magnificent. The loch stretched away into the distance, its waters reflecting the warm evening light, while great sweeps of cloud filled the sky overhead.

Loch Fyne is Scotland’s longest sea loch, extending for around 40 miles inland from the Sound of Bute. Its sheltered waters have long supported fishing and shellfish production, and its oysters are particularly celebrated.

The Loch Fyne Oyster Bar itself grew out of a small roadside business established in the late 1970s, helping bring the region’s exceptional seafood to a much wider audience.

Under different circumstances, this would have warranted a considerably longer investigation. Possibly involving oysters. Almost certainly involving something else from the menu.

Unfortunately, time was marching on, and having already travelled rather further than originally intended in pursuit of a sandwich, I thought it prudent not to embark on another culinary expedition.

A few photographs, a moment to enjoy the view, and I was on my way.

The Vital Spark – A Little Maritime Nostalgia

Continuing towards Inveraray, another unexpected photographic opportunity presented itself in the form of a wonderful old vessel named Vital Spark, her distinctive red-and-black hull standing out beautifully against the waters of Loch Fyne.

The name immediately evokes Scotland’s famous Clyde puffers, those sturdy little steam-powered cargo vessels that once carried essential supplies from the Clyde to the remote communities of the western Highlands and islands.

Coal, food, building materials, whisky barrels and almost anything else required by isolated settlements travelled aboard these remarkably versatile boats. Their shallow draught and flat bottoms allowed them to reach small harbours and even beach themselves where proper docking facilities were unavailable.

The puffers also became immortalised through Neil Munro’s fictional character Para Handy, the gloriously self-important skipper of the Vital Spark, whose adventures and frequent misunderstandings became a much-loved part of Scottish literature and television.

A captain whose confidence in his own abilities was, shall we say, not always entirely justified.

And this particular Vital Spark has quite a history of her own.

Built in 1944 as VIC 72, a wartime naval victualling vessel, she subsequently spent decades working as a cargo boat around Scotland’s western islands under several different names. Eventually brought to Inveraray in 2001, she was renamed Vital Spark in 2006 in honour of Neil Munro’s much-loved fictional puffer.

Although originally steam-powered, she was later converted to diesel, so she’s not quite the traditional steam puffer her appearance might suggest. Nevertheless, her working-boat character and distinctive profile make her a wonderful surviving reminder of the vessels that once provided a lifeline to Scotland’s remote coastal communities.

Not bad for a lady approaching her 82nd birthday.

There was something wonderfully atmospheric about her sitting quietly against the pier, with the wooded hills and calm waters of Loch Fyne providing a magnificent backdrop.

Quite how Para Handy would have coped with my increasingly revised itinerary is anyone’s guess, although I suspect he’d have found a perfectly reasonable explanation for every delay, preferably one that involved blaming somebody else.

And speaking of waterways, my next photographic diversion was waiting a little farther along the road.

Crinan – A Shortcut Through Scotland

As the afternoon slipped towards evening, I made my way to Crinan, a beautiful little settlement overlooking the Sound of Jura and the western entrance to the Crinan Canal.

By now, the light was changing rapidly. The sky had taken on soft shades of gold and blue, the rocky shoreline was beautifully silhouetted against the water, and distant islands appeared almost suspended beneath the clouds.

It was the sort of scene that makes you forget you’ve been driving for most of the day.

The canal itself has a fascinating history. Designed by the great civil engineer John Rennie and opened in 1801, it provides a nine-mile navigable shortcut between Ardrishaig on Loch Fyne and Crinan on the Sound of Jura.

Before its construction, vessels travelling between the Clyde and the western islands faced the considerably longer and potentially hazardous journey around the Mull of Kintyre.

The canal, with its 15 locks, transformed that journey, becoming an important commercial route for fishing vessels, cargo boats and, later, the Clyde puffers.

Not surprisingly, it acquired the rather splendid description of Britain’s most beautiful shortcut.

Standing beside the quiet harbour, looking at the boats, old stonework and canal locks, it wasn’t particularly difficult to understand why.

There was a lovely stillness about the place. Boats rested in the sheltered basin, their masts rising against the wooded hills, while the old lock gates and surrounding buildings provided a glimpse of the canal’s working past.

After the bustle of Glasgow, the dog-training activities at Dumbarton and the unexpected lunchtime expedition, Crinan felt wonderfully peaceful.

I could easily have spent considerably longer here, exploring the shoreline and photographing the changing light, but there was one small problem.

I still hadn’t reached my hotel.

Kilmartin – At Last!

A short drive later, I finally arrived in Kilmartin.

And, almost on cue, the weather decided that I’d enjoyed quite enough sunshine for one day.

The sky had turned decidedly grey, the roads were wet, and there stood the wonderfully traditional white frontage of the Kilmartin Hotel, looking rather inviting after a long day’s travelling.

I’d made it.

The hotel sits in the heart of a landscape I’d spent months researching, surrounded by one of Britain’s most remarkable collections of prehistoric monuments. Within just a few miles are ancient burial cairns, standing stones, stone circles and mysterious cup-and-ring carvings, many dating back thousands of years.

There is also Dunadd, once an important royal centre of the Gaelic kingdom of Dál Riata, where a footprint carved into the rock is traditionally associated with the inauguration of early Scottish kings. From prehistoric ceremonial landscapes to the emergence of early Scottish kingship, an astonishing amount of history is concentrated in this relatively small corner of Argyll.

And here I was, finally in the middle of it.

After months of research, countless maps, historical investigations and enough printed material to suggest I was preparing a doctoral thesis rather than a holiday, the real exploration was about to begin.

There was, however, something rather satisfying about simply arriving.

Looking back over the day, I’d managed to squeeze in a Bombay-inspired breakfast, an extraordinary medieval cathedral, a pioneering surgeon, Viking invasions, a rather unsuccessful search for lunch, one magnificent Italian sandwich, an espresso overlooking the Highlands, Loch Fyne, a characterful old puffer and a beautiful evening beside the Crinan Canal.

Not bad for a Tuesday.

But the ancient stones, mysterious burial chambers and several thousand years of Scottish history would have to wait until morning. For now, I had a hotel to check into, a camera to put away and, quite possibly, a well-earned glass of something Scottish to contemplate.

Five thousand years of history weren’t going anywhere overnight.

At least, I sincerely hoped not.

………………… Until Next Time ………………. L8ers ………………………

Wild Scotland: Witches, Whisky, Ancient Stones & Michelin Stars (Part 1)

It all started in March 2025 with an email landing in my inbox. The subject line? Kitchen in the Wild. Now, that got my attention.

I’d been on one of their adventures to Norway back in 2023 and had an absolute blast, so naturally, I was intrigued. But this one promised something rather special. An island off the west coast of Scotland, with none other than Nathan Outlaw, a chef with two Michelin stars, joining us as a special guest. Well, things were looking interesting already!

Apparently, it had taken the organisers 15 months to track down the perfect location, and from the description, it sounded as though they’d struck gold. Remote enough to escape the modern world, with no light pollution, meaning skies bursting with stars. Wildlife in abundance, a forager’s paradise and a fisherman’s heaven. Scallops, crabs, oysters and lobsters, all practically queuing up to be ‘thermidored’.

A remote Scottish island, spectacular scenery, incredible seafood and a two-Michelin-starred chef thrown into the mix. What could possibly go wrong?

Or, more to the point, where do I sign?

One year and seven months later, departure day had finally arrived. Of course, I’d hardly been sitting around twiddling my thumbs in the meantime. What started as a simple idea to add a few days of exploration before the main event had developed into something of a historical obsession, culminating in a professionally printed, full-colour guide running to more than 55 pages. Some people buy a guidebook. Apparently, I have to write my own.

Scotland, as I was discovering, has rather more to offer than spectacular scenery, whisky and the occasional deep-fried Mars bar. Beneath those beautiful Highland landscapes lies a history that is as fascinating as it is frequently bloody. Ancient kingdoms, warring clans, ruined castles, witchcraft, superstition and enough murder and betrayal to keep a television scriptwriter employed for life. I was hooked.

My research had taken me down several rather unexpected rabbit holes. There were the great Highland clans, particularly the Campbells, MacDonalds and Stewarts, whose centuries of feuding, shifting allegiances and occasional enthusiasm for slaughter had helped shape the Scotland we know today. Then came the darker world of witchcraft and folklore: accusations of sorcery, fairy beliefs, folk healers and the persecution of supposed witches. Following Scotland’s Witchcraft Act of 1563, such accusations could carry the death penalty. An unfortunate time to be a little eccentric, particularly if your neighbours didn’t like you.

But perhaps the most intriguing discovery was Kilmartin Glen in Argyll, an extraordinary landscape where the story of human settlement stretches back thousands of years. Here, long before the Highland clans were fighting over castles and territory, prehistoric communities were constructing elaborate burial cairns, carving mysterious cup-and-ring symbols into rock and raising enormous standing stones. Some of these monuments are around 5,000 years old, older even than Stonehenge’s famous stone circle. Their precise purpose, and whether particular alignments held ceremonial or astronomical significance, continues to fascinate archaeologists. Whatever the answers, our ancestors were clearly up to something rather more ambitious than simply finding somewhere to park a large rock.

The more I read, the longer my list of places to visit became. Castles appeared on the itinerary, followed by ancient burial grounds, standing stones and sites associated with Scotland’s darker folklore. Before long, my modest little detour had developed into a full-blown historical expedition. I had maps, routes, background notes and enough printed material to suggest I might be planning an archaeological dig rather than a culinary holiday.

And so, with the research complete, the guides printed and a hire car waiting in Glasgow, the first few days were all mapped out. I would be heading west, into Argyll, following a trail through centuries of Scottish history before eventually making my way towards the remote island and the culinary adventure that had started this whole thing.

First, though, there were a few castles to investigate, some ancient stones to ponder and several thousand years of history to catch up on.

Nathan Outlaw and the lobsters would have to wait.

Monday Morning – Best-Laid Plans

It was five o’clock on Monday morning. My intended 3:30 start had somehow passed me by, and I stirred to check the time. Today was the day. A 10:10 flight to Glasgow and the culmination of months of planning, research and anticipation. I was excited, although perhaps not quite as organised as my meticulously prepared itinerary might suggest!

Fortunately, the taxi arrived on time, and I was soon heading towards Heathrow, looking forward to a few days of independent exploration before joining a group of like-minded people whose common passion was food.

The journey, however, had other ideas.

Unusual fog conditions had apparently scattered aircraft and their respective crews far and wide, resulting in our eventual arrival at Glasgow Airport more than two hours behind schedule.

Not a major disaster, you might think. But I’d put together a rather ambitious timetable of places to visit, with Stirling Castle first on the list. By the time I’d collected the hire car, it was obvious that Stirling would have to wait. I had a dinner reservation that evening, and there are some things in life that simply cannot be compromised.

A change of plan was required. Fortunately, Glasgow was somewhere I’d wanted to explore anyway, and with a little rearranging, I could still make something of the afternoon.

Chocolate, Coffee and Other Essentials

First on the revised itinerary was Bare Bones Chocolate, a small artisan chocolate maker in the heart of Glasgow that I’d first discovered watching Rick Stein on television. He’d visited their operation, been suitably impressed and subsequently cooked using their chocolate. Naturally, this warranted further investigation.

I’d already sampled some through mail order and was rather taken with it, so the opportunity to visit in person was too good to miss.

Founded by Cameron and Lara, Bare Bones is a fascinating little business built around a simple philosophy: exceptional chocolate begins with exceptional cacao, and the people who grow it deserve just as much consideration as those who eventually get to eat it.

Their approach is genuinely bean-to-bar, meaning they undertake the entire chocolate-making process themselves, starting with the raw cacao beans rather than buying in ready-made chocolate to melt down and repackage. Everything is produced in their Glasgow workshop in small batches of around 30kg, with an almost obsessive attention to detail.

Cameron, a mechanical engineer by background, has even modified and developed some of the equipment used in production, including a Giesen coffee roaster adapted specifically for cacao. There’s something wonderfully appealing about that level of dedication.

And then there’s the cacao itself.

Rather than blending beans from numerous unidentified sources to achieve a standardised chocolate flavour, Bare Bones celebrates single-origin cacao, allowing the distinctive characteristics of individual growing regions to shine through. Much like wine or speciality coffee, the variety of cacao, where it’s grown, the surrounding environment and how it’s fermented and dried all influence the finished flavour.

Take their Madagascan chocolate, for example. The beans originate in the Sambirano region in the northwest of Madagascar, where cacao grows beneath the shade of tropical fruit trees. The resulting 70% dark chocolate has distinctive fruity characteristics, with notes of raspberries, cherries and maple syrup.

Their Honduran milk chocolate, meanwhile, offers something quite different, with flavours reminiscent of raisins, fudge and double cream. Then there’s cacao from the Dominican Republic, where Bare Bones works with beans supplied through ÖKO Caribe, an organisation supporting farmers through agricultural training, improved growing practices and more stable prices.

This is chocolate with provenance, character and a story behind it, rather than simply a percentage printed on a wrapper.

The production process is equally interesting. After roasting, the beans are cracked, their outer husks removed and the remaining cacao nibs slowly ground with a little cocoa butter and sugar in a traditional stone grinder known as a melanger.

This process can take up to 72 hours, gradually refining the texture and mellowing some of the sharper flavours. The chocolate is then allowed to age for two or three weeks before being tempered, giving the finished bar that lovely glossy appearance and distinctive snap when broken.

Rather more involved than opening a large bag of chocolate buttons!

Environmental responsibility is also clearly part of their thinking. Their cacao is sourced from farms and cooperatives, with an emphasis on organically grown produce and relationships that recognise the importance of the growers. In Madagascar, for instance, the cooperative supplying their cacao has been involved in initiatives encouraging shade-grown cultivation, protecting the surrounding rainforest habitat and reducing soil erosion.

Even the packaging has been carefully considered. The colourful outer boxes are produced from recycled paper, including recycled coffee cups, while the inner wrappers are plant-based and compostable. All their packaging is designed to be recyclable or compostable after use.

I rather like that. If you’re going to produce something special, why not consider the whole journey, from the farmer growing the cacao to the wrapper left behind after you’ve thoroughly enjoyed the contents?

Another attraction, particularly for a dark chocolate enthusiast like myself, is their refreshingly short ingredient lists. No soya lecithin, vegetable fats or unnecessary additives, just carefully selected ingredients and a great deal of patience.

Dark chocolate also has another interesting attribute. Cocoa contains naturally occurring plant compounds called flavanols, which have been studied for their effects on blood vessel function and circulation. Although the quantity retained varies considerably depending on how chocolate is processed, I feel this provides an entirely reasonable scientific justification for enjoying a square or two of particularly good dark chocolate.

Possibly three. Best not to leave the research half-finished. There was, however, another reason for my interest.

For this adventure I’d acquired an Outin rechargeable portable espresso machine, a rather clever little battery-operated device capable of producing a very respectable espresso without the need for a kitchen, mains electricity or a barista. Perfect for a trip involving remote Scottish landscapes.

My plan was to pair some excellent single-origin chocolate with a freshly extracted espresso, preferably somewhere overlooking a magnificent Highland loch. I’d also packed some home-compostable Nespresso-compatible pods from GRIND, having enjoyed their coffee in the Heathrow business lounge earlier that morning.

Wilderness is all very well, but there’s absolutely no reason to lower one’s standards.

Glasgow – A City with a Rather Colourful Past

Chocolate interests satisfied, I continued exploring.

One of the things that had become apparent during my pre-trip research was just how much history lies beneath the surface of Glasgow. The city is perhaps better known for its industrial heritage, magnificent Victorian architecture and mercantile wealth, but dig a little deeper and there’s a considerably darker, and occasionally rather amusing, story waiting to be discovered.

Glasgow Cross was a particularly interesting place to start.

Dominating the junction stands the magnificent seven-storey Tolbooth Steeple, dating from the 1620s and now standing somewhat forlornly on its own. Originally, it formed part of a much larger building housing the Town Clerk’s office, council chambers, courts and city prison.

It was, in effect, the administrative and judicial heart of Glasgow, where civic decisions were made and justice dispensed. Sometimes rather enthusiastically.

Witches, thieves and murderers all passed through the Tolbooth’s judicial machinery, with public executions forming a particularly grim chapter in the city’s history.

Not everyone incarcerated there had an entirely miserable time, however.

The debtors apparently developed something resembling an exclusive gentlemen’s club, electing their own ‘provost’ and establishing rules governing their little community. They even attempted to prevent the jailer from admitting anyone they considered unsuitable.

One regulation from 1789 required prisoners fortunate enough to regain their freedom to treat their fellow inmates to a shilling’s worth of liquor.

Imagine being released from prison only to discover you still had to buy everyone a round before you could leave!

Outside the Tolbooth, the paved area known as the ‘plainstanes’ became a fashionable gathering place for Glasgow’s wealthy merchants, particularly the Tobacco Lords. These gentlemen, enriched by Glasgow’s transatlantic tobacco trade and its connections to the economy of slavery, were apparently rather fond of displaying their prosperity, parading around in scarlet cloaks, powdered wigs and carrying gold-topped canes.

Subtlety clearly wasn’t fashionable.

Glasgow Cross was also a major communications and transport hub, with stagecoaches arriving from Edinburgh and London, bringing travellers, newspapers and news from the wider world.

As Glasgow expanded westwards, the old Tolbooth gradually lost its importance. The remaining main building was finally demolished in 1921, leaving its extraordinary steeple standing alone, a reminder of the days when Glasgow Cross was the beating heart of the city.

A City That Wears Its Art on Its Walls

Wandering through the surrounding streets, something else caught my attention: Glasgow’s remarkable collection of street art.

Now, I appreciate that graffiti can be a divisive subject, but some of what I encountered was on an entirely different level. Huge, colourful murals occupied entire sides of buildings, transforming otherwise unremarkable streets and forgotten corners into an enormous open-air gallery.

What began as a Glasgow City Council initiative in 2008 to brighten neglected spaces developed into something considerably more ambitious, with the official City Centre Mural Trail launching in 2014.

Artists including Smug, Rogue One and Ejek have helped establish Glasgow as a city where art isn’t necessarily confined to galleries, museums or somewhere requiring an admission ticket.

One of the most striking examples is Smug’s extraordinary depiction of St Mungo, Glasgow’s patron saint, on High Street. The saint is portrayed as a modern-day figure holding a robin, a reference to one of the miracles traditionally associated with him.

Elsewhere, an enormous girl peers through a magnifying glass on Mitchell Street, while a magnificent collection of Scottish wildlife occupies a building on Ingram Street.

There’s humour here, but also history and some powerful social commentary.

The Strathclyde University Wonderwall, covering more than 1,000 square metres, celebrates the university’s achievements, while another mural pays tribute to Charles Rennie Mackintosh, one of Glasgow’s most celebrated creative talents.

Other works carry a more contemporary message. Bow Down, Honour the Roots, created by the Fearless Collective during the COP26 climate conference in 2021, depicts Indigenous people from the Amazon alongside imagery celebrating cultural identity and environmental protection.

What I particularly enjoyed was the element of surprise. Turn a corner, wander down an unfamiliar street, and you might suddenly find yourself confronted by an enormous work of art.

Unlike the great Victorian buildings that have stood for generations, street art is constantly evolving. Murals appear, others disappear, buildings change and the city continues to reinvent itself.

There’s something rather wonderful about that.

From Ancient Glasgow to Modern Glasgow – and Dinner

Time was passing rather quickly, and I was discovering that Glasgow deserved considerably more attention than my hastily rearranged afternoon could possibly provide. It was definitely somewhere I wanted to return to. My research had already uncovered countless places beyond the usual visitor attractions, and I’d barely scratched the surface.

But enough sightseeing. It was time to eat.

I’d booked a table at the highly recommended Ardnamurchan, a restaurant specialising in Scottish produce, and one whose menu I’d been examining with considerable enthusiasm for months. The walk there was pleasant, if slightly damp, and revealed yet another side of the city.

The weathered stone and historic architecture gradually gave way to a more contemporary Glasgow. Neon signs, unfamiliar brands and fast-food outlets competed for attention, sometimes with remarkably similar establishments positioned right next door to one another.

An interesting contrast to the world of powdered wigs, gold-topped canes and debtors demanding a farewell drink.

Ardnamurchan – A Taste of Scotland

Ardnamurchan celebrates traditional Scottish ingredients, showcasing the country’s exceptional natural larder, both animal and vegetable, with a particular emphasis on quality and provenance.

Having studied the menu for months, I was rather looking forward to this.

Stepping through the door, I was immediately encouraged by how busy it was. A Monday evening, and the restaurant was already buzzing. Always a promising sign.

The welcome was wonderfully warm, and the delicious aromas drifting from the kitchen immediately set me trying to identify what was being cooked.

I have a habit of mentally dissecting dishes before I’ve even seen them. A waft of something roasting, a hint of seafood, perhaps a reduction bubbling away somewhere. It’s rather like trying to read the menu through your nose.

Decisions made I settled down and started to think about the week ahead, the day had been delayed, Heathrow business lounge had been a godsend, filtering the masses waiting to escape was a respite and the facilities, food and drink had been exemplary, ‘GRIND’ coffee being of particular interest, I had some off their home-compostable Nespresso® compatible pods with my Outin expresso machine in my case.

Being a fond favourite of mine, Scallops was the obvious 1st choice, I did look at the other options

Settling down with the menu, I finally had a moment to reflect on the day.

It certainly hadn’t gone entirely to plan. Stirling Castle had been sacrificed to the aviation gods, and my carefully constructed itinerary had required some fairly rapid surgery. On the positive side, I’d discovered rather more of Glasgow than originally intended, acquired some excellent chocolate and made it to dinner in one piece.

Even Heathrow’s business lounge had played its part, providing a welcome refuge from the delayed departure, with excellent facilities, food and drink. The GRIND coffee had been a particular highlight, and I still had those pods tucked away ready for my portable espresso machine. But now there were more important decisions to make.

Being a particular favourite of mine, scallops were the obvious first choice. I did study the other starters, naturally, but sometimes the heart knows what it wants.

And mine was firmly set on the scallops.

Dinner, a Little Indulgence and Plans for Tomorrow

The menu was a wonderful celebration of Scotland’s natural larder, and choosing wasn’t entirely straightforward. The hand-dived Hebridean scallops were particularly tempting, paired on the menu with crisp pork belly, burnt apple chutney, fresh apple, pickled shallots and an Inch’s cider cream. A combination that seemed designed specifically to test my ability to resist ordering them.

For the main course, however, there was considerably less deliberation. Ardnamurchan Estate Wild Venison Pavé, served with redcurrant jus, buttered fondant potato, braised chicory, sweet mustard gel and carrot and apricot purée. Now that sounded rather special.

And when it arrived, it certainly looked the part.

The venison was beautifully presented, generously portioned and cooked a magnificent pink, with a lovely caramelised exterior. The rich, glossy redcurrant jus brought everything together, while the sweetness of the carrot and apricot purée provided a welcome contrast to the game. The braised chicory offered a slightly bitter counterpoint, and that golden fondant potato, crisp on the outside and wonderfully soft within, was a little triumph in its own right.

A glass of red wine completed proceedings rather nicely.

What a delightful way to end a day that had started rather earlier than intended and hadn’t exactly followed the carefully prepared script. The food was excellent, the atmosphere warm and welcoming, and Ardnamurchan had delivered precisely what I’d hoped for: wonderful Scottish ingredients treated with care, confidence and just enough imagination to make the experience memorable.

I left feeling very content indeed. Although, looking back at the dessert menu, I did notice something called Tablet Choc Ice, featuring homemade Scottish tablet, chocolate ice cream, popping candy and white chocolate. Perhaps a compelling reason for a return visit!

A Damp Walk and Tomorrow’s Adventure

The walk back to the AC Hotel by Marriott was pleasant, if a little damp. Glasgow’s streets glistened under the evening lights, and the city had taken on a rather different character from the bustling place I’d explored earlier in the day.

I was reflecting on just how much I’d enjoyed Glasgow. What had initially felt like a frustrating disruption to the itinerary had turned into a thoroughly enjoyable afternoon and evening. Sometimes the unexpected diversions are every bit as rewarding as the carefully planned destinations.

Tomorrow, however, was another matter.

The historical expedition I’d spent so many months researching was finally about to begin in earnest. There were ancient landscapes to explore, castles to discover and several thousand years of Scottish history waiting for my attention. With the hire car collected, my ridiculously comprehensive printed guides ready and the camera batteries charged, I was determined to make the most of the days ahead. But first, breakfast.

Hopefully, tomorrow’s itinerary would prove slightly more resilient than today’s.

And if not, at least I’d be starting it properly fed.

………………… Until next time ………………. L8ers …………………………..

Cooking With The Amazing Valentina Harris At Richard Bertinets’ Cookery School

We had just returned home from an unforgettable family adventure in Tunisia, joined by our son and his childhood best friend. Throughout our stay, Tunisian hospitality enveloped us, and we delighted in extraordinary local cuisine while soaking up the golden North African sunlight. During the trip, I broke from our routine for a day and spent treasured hours with a local family, wandering through vibrant markets and discovering the art of preparing traditional dishes – the experience offered a genuine glimpse into everyday Tunisian life. Free from work distractions after removing all notifications from my phone, I fully savoured these moments with loved ones.

Back at home, an intriguing email awaited in my personal inbox, gently signalling my return from the warmth and vibrancy of Tunisia to familiar surroundings.

On Tuesday, September 16, 2025, 1:17 pm, The Bertinet Kitchen <bertinet@bertinet.com> wrote:

Hello 

We do hope you are well.

We have places available on the following fantastic class and we wondered if you would like to join us:- 

Regional Italian Cooking – A Day in Sicily with Valentina Harris Saturday 20th September 10am 

Here are some details about the course:-

Throughout this course, Valentina will share her extensive knowledge and passion for Italian cooking, guiding you through a variety of authentic recipes that showcase the unique flavours and ingredients from the largest Mediterranean island of Sicily.

You can expect to delight in dishes along with Valentina’s impressive knowledge and anecdotes in this hands on cooking class with the best of Italian produce to the fore.  The menu is based around a traditional Italian feast with antipasto, primi, secondi, contorno and dolce, with dishes including zuppetta di cozze (little mussel soup), zucca in agrodolce alla Siciliana (sweet and sour Sicilian pumpkin), scaloppine al marsala and a gelato alla nocciola with hazelnut meringues.

This course promises to enhance your culinary skills and inspire your love for Italian cuisine. You will emerge armed with knowledge, recipes, skill, and plenty of tips for cooking an array of delectable Italian dishes.

Valentina is our regular Italian tutor and has taught at the Kitchen for many years. She is a noted and much loved authority on Italian cooking and author of over 60 books on Italian cookery including Pasta Galore and Italian Regional Cooking, a culinary tour of Italy.  She appears regularly on TV, including her own series Italian Regional Cookery.

What a stroke of luck – the email arrived on Tuesday afternoon, and the cookery class was set for that Saturday at Richard Bertinet’s renowned school in Bath. Over time, courses at The Bertinet Kitchen have provided me with opportunities to learn from a diverse line-up of acclaimed chefs, each bringing their own unique approach and expertise.

My connection with Richard was further deepened at Kitchen on the Edge of the World in Norway in 2023, where he was among the many talented professionals leading workshops and inspiring fellow participants. Experiences like these – whether in Bath or on distant shores – have broadened my appreciation for food, learning, and the sense of community that comes from sharing it all together.

Italian food has always held a special place in my heart – especially the soulful, regional dishes that define each area beyond just pizza, unless I’m lucky enough to be dining in Italy itself, in Naples, the Pizza’s traditional home. My first true overseas cooking adventure took me to captivating Puglia in 2013, where I stayed for a week, at the enchanting organic farm Masseria Montenapoleone.

There, days unfolded amidst the beauty of the olive groves and historic stone walls, exploring the time-honoured rhythms of Italian family life. I rolled my own pasta under the guidance of my passionate host, visited local artisans crafting mozzarella, burrata, and ricotta using centuries-old techniques, and witnessed the pride that goes into every bottle of olive oil.

Each meal we prepared or ate – whether in the kitchen, at a sun-dappled table, or during lively market outings – became an invitation to share in traditions that are equal parts hospitality, flavour, and joy. The experience not only deepened my appreciation for Puglian cuisine but also left me with memories as rich and enduring as the land itself.

Sicilian cuisine was not familiar to me, so the opportunity to spend time with an expert was not to be missed, I quickly responded with a ‘yes please’.

Stepping through the doors of The Bertinet Kitchen for my eleventh visit, I felt the familiar excitement settle in. Upstairs, the inviting shop brimmed with beautiful kitchen tools. books and artisan treats, while downstairs the school buzzed with energy, ready for a new day of learning.

Jen, the ever-enthusiastic head of the kitchen team, had orchestrated every detail with ease, and Valentina was there to greet us with her signature warmth and expertise. The kitchen itself – bright, fully equipped, and set for discovery – welcomed each guest with an array of refreshments, including Richard’s legendary homemade bread and preserves, a testament to the school’s love of real food and hospitality.

As I introduced myself to the group I’d be spending the day with, there was a sense of camaraderie from the outset, everyone united by a shared anticipation for learning, laughter, and unforgettable flavours. Each visit somehow feels even more special than the last

Valentina Harris welcomed us with her trademark warmth and a storyteller’s flair – qualities honed over decades as one of Britain’s true ambassadors for authentic Italian cuisine. With roots tracing back to the Sforza dynasty of Milan and a childhood steeped in the flavours and rituals of her Anglo-Italian family,

Valentina truly embodies the living spirit of Italy at the table. Her deep respect for tradition is matched by extraordinary expertise, evident in her authorship of more than 50 acclaimed books covering the rich tapestry of Italian cooking. As a chef, educator, and broadcaster, she has left an indelible mark on food lovers across the world.

Beyond her impressive career in food media and teaching, Valentina has played an important role in empowering women in the culinary professions. The London chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier – an international philanthropic organization dedicated to supporting women in food, beverage, and hospitality – was launched by Dame Sue Carter with essential contributions from Valentina and Marianne Fitzpatrick (Lumb) in 2010. Through her work with the chapter, Valentina continues to foster professional growth and camaraderie, mentoring culinary talent and celebrating the achievements of women in the industry.

During our Sicilian cookery day, Valentina’s guidance transformed a hands-on class into a memorable exploration of regional cuisine. She led us through a heartfelt menu celebrating the flavours of Sicily: Zuppetta di Cozze, a delicate little mussel soup; crisp Polpette di Funghi; fiery L’Arrabbiata; sweet-and-sour Zucca in Agrodolce; and comforting Riso e Melanzane alla Palermitana. The meal finished with cloud-like Spumette di Nocciola and silky hazelnut gelato. Each explanation brought Italian hospitality to life, turning recipes into living acts of memory, generosity, and shared celebration.

A day spent at The Bertinet Kitchen is always a joy, but this occasion was exceptional in both flavour and fellowship. Valentina Harris brought every recipe to life, weaving together stories from her rich culinary heritage with practical lessons and approachable expertise. The array of Sicilian dishes we prepared showcased the inventive contrasts and traditions of the region – nowhere more striking than the pairing of fiery L’Arrabbiata with the sweet-and-sour Zucca in Agrodolce.

The Riso e Melanzane alla Palermitana was a genuine highlight – a harmonious layering of silky aubergine, tender rice, vibrant tomato sauce and melting cheese. Each bite offered a blend of savoury depth, subtle sweetness, and creamy richness, the ingredients melding together to create a dish that was both comforting and bursting with flavour. Its appeal lay in the balance of texture and taste: the smoky aubergine and bright tomato perfectly complemented by the indulgent cheese and fragrant rice – a celebration of Sicilian home cooking at its most delicious.

After those vibrant, savoury courses, dessert was an event in itself: Valentina led us through crafting spumette di nocciola – light hazelnut meringues – and a silky hazelnut gelato made by toasting hazelnuts, making a praline with caramel and the nuts, cooling, and then blitzing before adding to a velvety crème anglaise base. The roasty sweetness of the gelato, paired with the delicate meringues, closed the meal with pure Sicilian spirit and unmistakable finesse.

The entire experience was a reminder of the thoughtful environment Richard Bertinet and his team foster at the school: a place where learning is hands-on, the ingredients shine, and every dish becomes a celebration of skill and community. Sharing the table over such memorable fare, with laughter and conversation flowing (and plenty of matching wine), gave the day lasting resonance.

As I look ahead to next month’s adventure at Rick Stein’s Cookery School in Padstow, the lessons and inspiration gathered from this brilliant Sicilian feast at Bertinet’s will travel with me – reinforcing just how rewarding it is to cook, taste, and learn in great company.

………………………………….Until next time L8ers………………………………..

نهار زين طيبنا مع عايلة تونسية في سوسة A Beautiful Day Cooking With a Tunisian Family in Sousse

I rose before dawn, the gentle promise of a Tuesday awakening, the fourth day of my fifth journey to Tunisia – a country whose sun-drenched memories began for me on my twenty-first birthday. While others celebrated with fleeting parties and the haze of hangovers, I chose a week wrapped in the golden warmth of 27 to 30 degrees, wandering timeless corridors beneath El Jem’s ancient arches and tracing cinematic dreams at the Star Wars set at Matmata. There’s a quiet magic here; each return only deepens my fascination for this mystical country.

Our hotel was north of Port El Kantaoui, the port had just been completed the 1st time I travelled here nearly 40 years ago, we were staying in Sousse, but visited the port on one of our days out.

Port El Kantaoui, just north of Sousse, stands as one of Tunisia’s most ambitious tourism projects—a meticulously planned resort born from a vision to transform the nation’s appeal for international visitors. Inspired by the allure of Western Mediterranean marinas, its creation in the late 1970s drew on chic Moorish design and an artificial harbour as the centrepiece, instantly setting it apart from the more traditional hospitality found in Sousse’s city centre.

Before Port El Kantaoui, Sousse’s hotels primarily catered to classic beachgoers and travellers eager to soak up local sights, but this integrated resort marked a turning point—ushering in an era of luxury, modern amenities, and a distinctively European flavour in Tunisian tourism. The impact on the region has been profound: not only did it redefine the local hotel scene and create thousands of new tourism jobs, but it also established Sousse as a year-round destination for package holidays and marina lifestyles.

Today, Port El Kantaoui’s elegant streets and bustling quays continue to attract visitors seeking a fusion of North African warmth and Mediterranean sophistication.

I was welcomed by the delightful Nabil at 09:30, with booking and communication made effortless thanks to Tunisian Flavour – a true pleasure from start to finish. My culinary day was private, just for me, although there’s always the option to join a group if that suits your style. As someone whose enthusiasm sometimes overflows, I cherish the chance to immerse myself in tours or classes alone, allowing me to absorb every moment.

After parking, and before we entered the storied lanes of the Medina, I was invited to select the day’s menu from a dazzling list of thirty Tunisian dishes. The decision set the tone for our adventure. Among the offerings was Tajine Malsouka – a much-loved treasure of Tunisian cuisine, reminiscent of a quiche but wrapped in delicate malsouka pastry, crisped to golden perfection and filled with a savoury mixture of chicken, lamb, eggs, cheese, and fresh herbs. Another tempting choice was Nwasser, a cherished Tunisian pasta delicately cut into tiny squares, steamed until perfectly tender, and often served beneath a blanket of succulent chicken in rich tomato sauce, with chickpeas and vibrant vegetables woven through. That lingering moment of selecting my dishes before entering the Medina set a gentle rhythm for the day – one shaped by flavour, tradition, and the warmth of shared experience.

My menu reflected my longing for authenticity. Ojja was to be the star: beloved in Tunisia, this dish features eggs gently poached in a fiery tomato sauce, with green peppers, onions, and plenty of harissa. Most famously paired with merguez sausages, ojja brings together the hearty notes of cumin, paprika, and garlic, bubbling away until perfect for scooping up with crusty bread – a true celebration of Tunisian home cooking.

And because I couldn’t resist, I shared my fondness for brik, the iconic crispy treat I once saw Keith Floyd cook on TV at the El Jem amphitheatre – Nabil kindly offered to show me how to make it a special extra.

For my second choice, I selected Kafteji: a classic Tunisian street food where fried potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, pumpkin, and sometimes zucchini are chopped together, mixed with eggs, and seasoned with cumin, coriander, and a touch of harissa. Served with warm bread, Kafteji is both rustic and comforting – a staple of Tunisian kitchens and snack bars, enjoyed any time of day and loved for its bold, colourful flavours.

The shopping trip into the heart of the Medina was nothing short of epic. Stepping into a world alive with colour and scent, I found myself surrounded by piles of freshest herbs – dill, mint, coriander, parsley – each leaf and sprig bursting with promise and flavour. Much like my adventures through the hidden corners of Morocco, I purposefully wandered beyond the tourist trail with Nabil to where real life unfolded: bustling market stalls, vendors calling with pride, the air thick with the fragrance of earth and spice.

Shopping where locals shop, I revelled in the ritual of tasting, smelling, and with Nabil, carefully selecting ingredients, seeking only the most vibrant and perfect for the dishes ahead. There is an undeniable thrill to browsing food markets – each stall a feast for the senses, every display telling a story. Familiar greens mingled with new discoveries, the market’s energy and abundance filling me with delight. It was just brilliant, the kind of experience that cooks up lifelong memories alongside the day’s recipes.

If there is one ingredient that always seems more vibrant and irresistible when travelling, it’s the tomato. Abroad, their sun-ripened sweetness and fragrance surpass anything I’ve tasted at home – I simply cannot get enough. During my stay at the hotel, juicy, crimson tomatoes found their way onto my plate at least twice a day, an essential centrepiece in salads bursting with authentic flavour – so unlike the pale, bland offerings I’ve grown used to back in the U.K.

The market was overflowing with them: plump and glistening, heaped in glorious abundance, the scent hanging thick in the air. Each tomato promised the taste of sunshine and earth, a simple perfection that felt almost impossible to capture outside these travels.

We continued our journey through the winding alleys of the Medina, stopping at vibrant market stalls to gather the day’s essential ingredients. Each pause brought another burst of colour and aroma – bright herbs, fresh vegetables, spices so fragrant they lingered in the air. The rhythm of local life pulsed around us, every purchase infused with intention and excitement for the cooking to come.

After the market, we retraced our steps to the car, our bags now heavy with promise. Yet the adventure wasn’t done: on the way to Nabil’s home, we visited a delightful series of specialist shops, each one a treasure trove in its own right. There, we picked up freshly made harissa, fiery and aromatic, plump merguez sausages, and glistening olives. These final, carefully chosen ingredients would tie the meal together, their flavours echoing the spirit of Tunisia – generous, bold, and unforgettable.

After a short drive, we arrived at Nabil’s family home where I was introduced to his wife and professional chef Nisaf, my guide for the cooking lessons to follow – the home was a tranquil oasis enveloped in greenery and the gentle shade of leafy trees. The house exuded a cool serenity, with its inviting patio and comfortable chairs set out to savour the softness of the Tunisian breeze. The sheltered garden offered a quiet escape, promising a sense of peace and familial warmth.

Stepping inside, I was welcomed not as a guest, but as a long-awaited member of the household – greeted by genuine smiles and a hospitality that felt deeply rooted in Tunisian tradition. A table was thoughtfully being prepared with refreshments, an offering that was both generous and heart warming. In this private sanctuary, I felt a true sense of privilege, as if I were rediscovering distant family after many seasons apart.

Bread and deep green extra virgin olive oil graced the table – did you know Tunisia’s olive groves span nearly a third of the country and place it among the world’s top five producers. Renowned for organic, flavourful oils like Chemlali and Chetoui, Tunisia’s harvest is largely exported and garners global acclaim, its reputation now standing proudly beside Spain, Italy, and Turkey.

Alongside were figs and bssisa – a beloved Tunisian staple made from roasted grains and legumes, ground and blended with spices, then enriched with olive oil or milk into a nourishing paste or drink. Steeped in tradition and family ritual, bssisa embodies the essence of Tunisian hospitality, uniting generations through its wholesome flavours and generous spirit. Harissa was there too, the ever-present, fiery chilli paste crafted from sun-dried peppers, garlic, olive oil, and aromatic spices – a condiment that captures the vibrant soul of Tunisian cuisine. Completing the spread, coffee gently scented with rose petal essence offered fragrant, delicious comfort.

The spacious family kitchen was ready for an afternoon of discovery. Here, I was welcomed into the secrets of time-honoured Tunisian cooking, sharing those cherished moments that make one feel utterly at home, if only for a sweet, fleeting afternoon—the anticipation humming with the promise of unforgettable memories.

So, back to my menu, Ojja, Kafteji and Brik, a selection of dishes unknown to me (with the exception of Brik. Nisaf was going to show me how to create this traditional Tunisian dishes and I was excited to learn some new techniques.

Ojja

Ojja is a deeply traditional Tunisian dish with humble roots in home kitchens, reflecting the fusion of Berber, Arab, and Mediterranean culinary influences over centuries. Its signature mix of eggs, tomato, peppers, harissa, and spicy merguez sausage embodies the bold flavours of Tunisia, while adaptations vary regionally and by family. The dish is regarded as a cornerstone of authentic Tunisian comfort food, celebrated for its ability to adapt and unite diverse tastes and ingredients.

Kafteji

Kafteji, now a Tunisian staple found in street stalls and home kitchens, began as a creative way to use available vegetables – potatoes, peppers, tomatoes, pumpkin—chopped and fried, mixed with eggs, and spiced generously. Its preparation style, where all ingredients are diced and mixed, is reflected in its name, derived from the Arabic for “chopped”. While some elements may echo Mediterranean and even Turkish traditions, kafteji’s evolution and widespread popularity are distinctly Tunisian, symbolizing hospitality, creativity, and the communal pleasures of everyday meals.

Brik

Brik’s origins are a tapestry of influences: its ultra-thin pastry (warqa or malsouka) and fried fillings likely evolved from Turkish börek – introduced via the Ottoman Empire – while the classic runny egg filling may owe its presence to Andalusian Jews who arrived in Tunisia after the 15th-century expulsion from Spain. Over centuries, brik became a uniquely Tunisian delicacy, made with potato, egg, seafood, or meat, and featured at holidays, Ramadan, and festive gatherings. Its enduring appeal lies in Tunisia’s layering of culinary traditions, each bite echoing the country’s role as a crossroads of Mediterranean culture.

The artistry of Tunisian cooking reveals itself dish by dish, beginning with the bold flavors of ojja. The process starts by pricking merguez sausages with a fork and cooking them separately with some chopped dried chilli, allowing their spicy oils to seep out and deepen their flavour as they brown. Once done, the sausages are set aside, their aromatic fat reserved.

In the same pan, onions and garlic gently sauté in olive oil, joined by chopped green peppers that brighten and sweeten as they cook. Tomatoes and harissa follow, mingling with cumin and coriander until a rich, fiery sauce develops. The browned merguez rounds, glistening with their own juices, are folded back in, and finally eggs are cracked into the bubbling sauce, their whites barely set, yolks golden and just runny. Scooped up with fresh bread, ojja embodies the heart of a Tunisian gathering.

Moving across the kitchen, the creation of kafteji is a celebration of color and texture. Potatoes and squash are sliced thin and fried separately, each piece taking on a golden, crisped edge. Peppers and chilies are fried in turn, then all the vegetables come together in a medley on a broad platter. Fried eggs are then laid across the surface and everything is cut into enticing strips, mingling vegetable and egg in a fragrant jumble. This dish, which is always served for sharing – is wholesome, rustic, full of sunshine and very tasty.

Brik provides the theatrical finale. Each delicate sheet of pastry (malsouka, which we purchased freshly made at the Medina) is filled with a little seasoned tuna placed at its centre, some Tuna. chopped Parsley and a little chopped Onion along with the freshest egg available. The pastry is folded to envelop its filling, with quick, sure hands, and lowered carefully into shimmering hot oil. In just moments, the brik crisps and blisters to a golden finish, the egg inside barely set with a runny yolk. Served immediately, with a wedge of lemon ( and for me Harissa, I love the stuff), brik is crisp yet delicate, a Tunisian delight both sumptuous and fleeting – capturing the very soul of the country’s spirited home cooking.

We drank from traditional white and blue Tunisian terracotta mugs – slightly porous and beautifully handcrafted. The clay kept our drinks deliciously cool, even in the midday warmth, each sip a simple pleasure that echoed centuries of Tunisian craftsmanship and refreshment.

Nisaf was nothing short of magical – a chef imbued with talent and generosity, guiding each step with a graceful confidence that made every new technique feel within reach. With Nabil’s able hands and his effortless translation between languages, learning was transformed into pure delight; culinary secrets became stories, and the kitchen itself pulsed with laughter and the easy rhythm of shared discovery. As we finally sat down to savour the feast we’d created, each bite shimmered with the flavours of Tunisia, rich with memory and promise. I left the table not only filled with the most delicious food, but also with a new treasury of knowledge and inspiration – thirty genuine recipes tucked eagerly into my bag, ready to carry the vibrance of Tunisian cuisine into my own kitchen, time and time again.

After I arrived back to the U.K. I was invited to join a Sicilian Cookery Session at Richard Bertinets Cookery School in Bath which I will be writing about soon.

………………………………. Until Next Time…………………….. L8ers

From Farm to Table and Gallery to Gift—A Moroccan Day of Indulgence and Inspiration (Day 5)

I awoke and blinked into the golden Moroccan light, hardly believing it was already Wednesday, the last full day in Essaouira. Since stepping off the plane the previous Saturday, the world I’d left behind had melted away: work, customers, endless problem-solving, even the distant rumblings of the world economy, all had faded into irrelevance. This journey had done its magic, untangling the knots of daily life and filling the space with colour, flavour, and discovery.

Each sunrise brought new marvels, and I found myself immersed in the rhythms of Morocco, its vibrant markets, ancient traditions, and the intoxicating pulse of its cuisine. Guiding me through it all was Amanda: not just my personal guide and masterful chef, but a kindred spirit whose passion for Morocco’s culture and food opened doors I never knew existed. With every shared meal and story, I felt a sense of wonder grow, a reminder that travel, at its best, is a gentle awakening to beauty, friendship, and the joy of being fully present in the world.

Making a rich saffron hollandaise is one of life’s true pleasures, luxurious, golden, and deeply satisfying. I’ve had the delight of whisking it to silkiness a few times before, most memorably at Rick Stein’s Cookery School in Padstow, where it crowned a beautiful ‘tronçon’ of turbot. This morning in Essaouira, the sauce would take centre stage once again. Earlier in the week, we had cured some trout in a vivid blend of beetroot, salt, and sugar, and now it was ready for its moment: breakfast as an event. Slices of the jewel-toned trout were paired with creamy avocado and a perfectly poached egg, all generously draped in that opulent saffron hollandaise and finished with a satisfying crack of fresh black pepper. Each bite was a celebration—of technique, of flavour, and of the sheer joy of starting the day with something extraordinary.

Way back in 2013, I found myself in Puglia, at Masseria Montenapoleone, an organic farm nestled in the sun-drenched heart of southern Italy. It was my very first cooking vacation and the spark that ignited countless culinary adventures to come. There, I learned the subtle art of using flowers not just for beauty, but to create a vibrant, bio-diverse environment: drawing the so-called “unwanted” plant eaters away from crops, while inviting in the pollinators and beneficial insects that keep nature in balance. Akal, here in Morocco, is very much a kindred spirit—an eco-farm that weaves flowers into every aspect of its philosophy. At Akal, the blooms aren’t just guardians of the fields; they’re also an integral part of the tasting experience, gracing the table and infusing the most imaginative, flavourful menus with colour and fragrance. Dining here is more than a meal—it’s a celebration of nature’s harmony, and a reminder of how the smallest details can transform the way we taste the world.

Our lunchtime destination was no more than 15 minutes drive, Domaine Du Val D’Argan. Domaine du Val d’Argan is a remarkable testament to vision, perseverance, and the unique character of Moroccan terroir. Founded by Charles Melia, a seasoned winemaker with deep roots in both France and Morocco, the vineyard sits just outside Essaouira, where the Atlantic winds sweep over limestone and clay soils, echoing the Rhône valley’s own mistral. What began as a retirement dream became a pioneering adventure: Melia cleared stony ground by hand, planted the first Rhône varietals, and patiently learned to coax vines to thrive on the edge of the desert, sheltering them from fierce sun and wind with natural methods and organic care.

Today, Val d’Argan is a landscape of lush vine rows bordered by sorghum and eucalyptus, where dromedaries still help tend the land and the cellar holds the promise of Morocco’s finest vintages. The wines—ranging from bright, aromatic whites to robust reds and elegant rosés—capture the sun, wind, and wild spirit of their setting. Visiting the domaine is more than a tasting; it’s an immersion in a story of resilience and passion, where every glass reflects not only the land’s bounty but also the quiet determination of its founder. This is a vineyard where French tradition and Moroccan landscape meet, yielding wines—and memories—that are truly one of a kind.

I found myself ‘in the moment’ once again, shaded beneath the branches of an ancient olive tree at Domaine du Val d’Argan. Plates of freshly prepared food appeared in a steady, generous procession, vivid salads bursting with local flavour, a fragrant tagine, and turkey roasted on kebab skewers, each dish a celebration of Moroccan abundance. Glasses of the estate’s wines flowed freely, each one a new discovery.

The “Gazelle de Mogador” in white, red, and rosé offered a taste of the Atlantic’s easy elegance, while the Val d’Argan range echoed the vineyard’s Rhône heritage, capturing the region’s sun and wind in every sip. Yet it was the Perle Grise that truly captured the spirit of the place for me, a wine as pale as morning light, delicately aromatic, with hints of citrus blossom and wild herbs, perfectly refreshing beneath the olive canopy. As the afternoon stretched on, a rich chocolate dessert arrived, rounding out a meal that was both relaxed and luxurious. At Domaine du Val d’Argan, the artistry of winemaking and the generosity of Moroccan hospitality come together in a setting as memorable as the wines themselves, a place where every glass tells a story, and every moment lingers long after the last sip. It was time to head back to Essaouira for some last minute exploration.

As we entered the medina, the air shimmered with the ethereal tones of a young man playing a handpan, his fingers coaxing otherworldly melodies from the spaceship-like drum that echoed off the ancient stone walls.

As the sun dips toward the Atlantic, the ancient medina of Essaouira began to pulse with an energy that is both timeless and electric, the unmistakable prelude to the Gnaoua World Music Festival. For a few magical days each year, the city’s labyrinthine alleys and windswept squares become a living stage, as hypnotic rhythms and haunting melodies spill from every doorway and rooftop. The air grows thick with the deep, trance-inducing thrum of the guembri, the metallic clatter of krakebs, and the soaring call-and-response of Gnaoua singers, their music weaving a spell that draws locals and travellers alike into its embrace.

Founded in 1998, the festival is a vibrant celebration of Gnaoua culture, descendants of West African slaves who brought with them a mystical musical tradition rooted in healing, spiritual trance, and communal memory. Over the years, the festival has blossomed into a global gathering, where Gnaoua masters share the stage with jazz virtuosos, blues legends, and musicians from every corner of the world. This fusion of sounds creates a heady, intoxicating atmosphere, where ancient African rhythms meet flamenco, reggae, rock, and Sufi chants, all under the open Moroccan sky.

The festival is more than a concert—it’s a living tapestry of history, spirituality, and artistic exchange. The music, once used in sacred rituals to heal and connect with the divine, now fills Essaouira’s medina with a sense of unity and celebration. For a few unforgettable nights, the city becomes a crossroads of cultures, a place where the boundaries between audience and performer, past and present, seem to dissolve in the intoxicating swirl of sound and spirit.

This stunning plate ( a present for my best friend and wife forever ), is a true testament to Moroccan artistry, its surface alive with intricate geometry and vibrant colour. Crafted in the traditional style of Fez, the design radiates from a central starburst, each petal meticulously hand-painted in shades of emerald green, saffron yellow, and soft rose. Delicate crosshatching and fine black lines create a mesmerizing lattice, while the outer border is woven with interlocking patterns that speak of centuries-old craftsmanship. The plate’s symmetry and precision are captivating, drawing the eye inward and inviting contemplation of the skill and patience required to create such a piece. More than just a vessel, it is a celebration of heritage, a beautiful reminder of Morocco’s rich ceramic traditions and the enduring allure of handmade work.

In the heart of Essaouira’s medina, you’ll often come across what locals call the “magic box”, a beautifully crafted container made from the region’s prized thuya wood. Native to Morocco’s coastal forests and especially abundant around Essaouira, ‘thuya’ wood is renowned for its rich, swirling grain, warm hue, and natural, cedar-like fragrance

Artisans here have honed their craft for generations, turning thuya burl into intricate puzzle boxes, lidded spheres, and inlaid treasures, each one polished to a satiny sheen and finished with lemon oil to enhance its natural luster. These boxes are more than just souvenirs; they’re a testament to Essaouira’s heritage of marquetry and woodworking, a tradition dating back to the 19th century when sultans commissioned decorative objects and furniture from the city’s master craftsmen.

Whether used to store spices, trinkets, or secrets, a thuya wood “magic box” from Essaouira is a piece of living history, fragrant, tactile, and always a little mysterious, as if it holds a story all its own. Our son loves his…

………………………………..Until Next Time………………………….L8ers