Culinary Excellence – Not Me, but getting there! (Padstow Day 4)

Spoots’, commonly known as Razor Clams are delicious when prepared and cooked properly, I had my 1st taste of them many years ago At Tom Kitchins Michelin star restaurant in Edinburgh, they were delightful.

Our first dish, on the last day in the kitchen was a Jack Stein creation, from his book ‘Jack Steins World on a Plate’, Razor Clams served with Crab and Samphire. Cooking these gems of the sea is an art, too long and they are like rubber, too short, yuck, get the timing correct and you get tender delicious morsels that delight the palate.

Breakfast was served, the clams were cooked after steaming for 2-3 minutes and then finishing in a sauce of fish stock, cream and of course, butter. The Samphire added some texture and ‘saltiness’, like seasoning without adding salt from a shaker, very tasty indeed and quick to make.

As part of the last days menu we needed to prepare some more fish for stocks and reductions, we were given a Hake to deal with, it’s a soft fleshed fish so if you can cope with its delicate nature, everything else is easy, my attempt including removing the skin is above, well proud I was when I ‘got it done good’.

’Industrial’ kitchen equipment was used to prepare our next treat, a rich classic fish soup with rouille and croûtons, and a grating of parmesan. The rouille used a homemade harissa which was simply prepared in a blender before our very eyes, it was another tasty dish, packed full of flavour, with the crisp fiery croûton adding to the party, and extras available for those who wanted them, yes please!

The last day was not as busy as the previous three which was a relief, everyone was feeling the impact of hours on our feet, all the prep, cutting and checking our recipes in order to produce a decent plate of food, over and over.

It had been great fun at the cookery school but there was still work to be done, like preparing a top notch dish of Roast Tronçon of Turbot with Hollandaise Sauce! The various dishes we had been preparing during the week had given us the chance to learn new techniques, revise and practise those we had tried before which was a really good way to progress skills, and confidence.

The previous day, a large pot had been put on the hob with several blocks of butter to cook slowly, to make clarified butter, the smell was intoxicating.

Preparing Hollandaise takes some practise, this time was my best effort ever, and I think I may have finally cracked it. I mentioned consistency in my last post, being able to reproduce something the same, every time, that’s where my head was at, and continues to be, it makes cooking so much nicer, feeling confident in what you are preparing, knowing the end result will be excellent.

I was delighted, bright, glossy, a lovely consistency my Hollandaise was done. The Turbot, a fillet from a fish costing about £75, with only 5 – 6 fillets per fish was to be roasted, after some browning treatment on the hot plate. There are some techniques to understand when doing this, you can find out how by signing up for the course.

Once the fish was cooked we plated up, slathering the rich Hollandaise to our hearts content. We had also prepared a herb fines sauce, using Parsley, Tarragon, Chives and Chervil, this was placed around the plate and added an extra dimension to what was a delicious and extremely tasty plate of food.

Lets make sushi! Nick gave us a masterclass in making several types of Sushi. Before starting, the rice had been cooked, chilled and seasoned with a mixture of vinegar and sugar. Various styles were created, like Nigiri, a hand moulded ‘oblong’ of sticky rice, with typically, a layer of raw fish. Makisushi, a roll of rice and assorted fillings such as Cucumber and Salmon, or Tuna.

Next it was our turn, again in our pairs we produced plates of delectable tasty delights, using bamboo rolling mats to shape the MakiSushi, some even attempted the California Roll where the rice is on the outside rather than the inside. We were provided with Ginger, and some GENUINE wasabi, not the horseradish based product you typically get in the UK, this was the proper stuff from Japan, in root form, boy it was completely different to what you are normally served on the high street.

The course was complete, 4 days of intensive cooking, and eating, with Nick and his brilliant team making sure everything ran smoothly it had been fantastic. My knowledge and more important, confidence has been raised (again), and dealing with fish will become a more frequent activity, we are lucky to have some local suppliers where we can get fresh line caught fish whole, perfect.

I wandered back to he hotel after receiving my attendance certificate and saying goodbye, there was still one more thing I had booked but I had some time to relax and ended up watching some cookery programs in my hotel room!

I arranged this trip 6 months ago, a lot of planning was involved and now my last night was to be at probably, no yes, my favourite restaurant in the U.K.*, Paul Ainsworth at No.6, my second visit I had high hopes indeed. It was raining again (a lot), and I arrived at the front door at least 40 minutes too early.

*I am challenged as to favourite restaurant overall, No.6 is up there at the very top, but, there is one other restaurant where I have had an amazing meal that physically made me cry with delight, and the fish was the dish that did it for me. Read about it HERE

Right, back to the brilliant No.6.

Sitting above the restaurant is a cosy bar called Ci Ci’s, selling Cocktails and Pintxos it usually has to be booked in advance due to its cosy nature, there was room for me so I was welcomed up the stairs and invited to sit at a bar stool.

There is an interesting and extensive cocktail list, something for everyone, I decided on a ‘Three Of A Kind’, based on a quality Calvados it was delicious. Tom who was sorting my drink out was friendly and a perfect host, we chatted in-between his cocktail preparation, I was gearing up for a fab night downstairs in the restaurant. After I was served there appeared to be a ‘run’ of ‘Three Of A Kind’s’, either people were listening or they knew a thing or two.

Despite the amount of food that I had consumed already during the week, and on the last day of the cookery course, I was hungry and had some time to spare before my booking, so I decided to grab some Pinxtos, in my case Cave Aged Manchego, Rosemary Crackers and Chestnut Honey, delightful.

I ‘get’ savoury and sweet, this was a perfect marriage and got my taste buds tingling.

It was soon time for dinner and as we were going downstairs I was told of the refurb upstairs, and the creation of a pastry kitchen and was invited to take a quick look. Yes Please!

As I looked around I recognised the distinctive shape of Barkham Blue Cheese from Two Hoots Artisan Cheese makers, based near where I live! Middle Picture left shelf, the UFO shaped objects, it’s a cracker if you can get it!

I then recognised Alice who walked in behind me, an extremely competent Pastry Chef, now Restaurant Director, ‘welcome back’ she said, that’s the first sign of great service considering it was two years since my last visit.

I was prepared for a good night, but epic is a more appropriate description of the evenings events, truly memorable.

A tasting menu with matching wine flight was ordered, a special occasion, being my last night in Padstow after another culinary adventure it was the only choice I could make. The menu has land and sea options, and follows a story, a different style from other restaurants and great fun.

I was seated at the same table as last time, a perfect view into the kitchen, my favourite spot to watch all the going’s on.

Some nibbles to start things off, ‘Quavers”, with Vinegar and Seaweed seasoning, in a moreish Aubergine Dip was really surprising, so so tasty, and this was just a ‘snack’!

I won’t describe all the dishes this time, suffice to say the 1st course was a belter, I recognised the Cheese Scone, a delicious speciality of No.6 and featuring on the menu twice in different guises, the accompanying Blanc de Noirs from Alfriston in East Sussex, a pleasant treat being a UK sparkling wine, it was perfect.

Rathfinny Estate is a relatively young vineyard, established in 2010 it utilises a south facing slop, chalk soil and low intervention techniques to produce some amazing bubbles.

Chris McClurg, Chef Patron popped out of the kitchen and said hello, also welcoming me back and we chatted briefly before he was back in the ‘engine room’, preparing food ready for serving, a true gent.

Soon, Chris was back, personally serving my next course, the Smoked Eel with Crapaudine Beetroot another belter of a dish, the previous version I had two years ago was with a Pomme Anna. This was very tasty, I do love Eel, but don’t eat it often. The balance of all the textures and flavours was spot on, especially the earthiness of the Beetroot.

There was a very healthy serving of Kaluga Reserve N25 caviar which worked well.

An exquisite species, second largest of the sturgeon family reaching up to 1000kg. It is also known as the “river beluga” as it is the only other sturgeon from the Huso family; the other being the Huso Huso (Beluga). This extraordinary variety of sturgeon also produces the most amazing and large grains of caviar. Due to the old age of the fish and over a decade of waiting needed to produce caviar, the roe is one of the most prestigious and sought-after. It was very tasty indeed.

The wine match, a Trebbiano 2022, from an estate in Tuscany that dates back to the 20’s is heaped in history, and has been cared for by the Contini Bonacossi family, it was delicious, another belter of a paring.

Next course, hello Chris, I was getting star service tonight, Wild Turbot, booooooom, delicious. I loved the Scarpetta which appeared as I was about to finnish, Perché non fai la scarpetta? Scarpetta is the practise of mopping up your plate with bread. This bread, freshly made, warm and doused in a delicious olive oil. Yummmm! Apologies for the picture, I had dived in before taking a snap, it looked so good!

Another brilliant wine paring, this time from the Languedoc region of France, Boulevard Napoleon ‘Le Pal’ comes from the village of Livinière, 70 year old + vines produce a very special wine, only a few hundred cases are made each year the grapes are hand harvested, fermented and aged using French Oak Barriques.

In making wine there are many different sizes of barrels used. Barrique barrels are relatively small barrels, but not just any small barrels. Barriques are also known as Bordeaux barrels, because it was in Bordeaux that their shape and size was designed and developed. Barriques are relatively tall and have a capacity of  225 liters (59 gallons).

This winery is a partnership, part of the well known St. John chain based in London, Fergus Henderson is renowned for his hardcore nose to tail food, his restaurants are on my ‘must do’ list.

I adore this dish, ‘All Of The Pigeon’, it’s outstanding, moreish and makes me want to weep it’s that good. Using as much of the Pigeon as physically possible it hits all the taste buds, bouncing around the palate, teasing every flavour receptacle. I especially like the whipped Pigeon liver parfait piped into a crisp serrated shell, perfect.

The sumptuous red wine from the Veneto region of Italy was another perfect choice. La Grola, 90% Corvina Veronese and 10% Oseleta is manually harvested (hand picked) in the second half of September, fermented in steel tanks, then aged in ‘2nd use’ French Oak Barrels for 16 months and in large Slavonian barrels for another 2 months followed by bottle ageing for 10 months, its worth the wait! Delicious.

Throughout the evening, Loren, the assistant sommelier had been explaining why each wine was paired with a particular dish, not just a quick ‘it’s dry’ or it’s ‘rich’ or it’s ‘red’, the explanations were beautiful, eloquent and accurate for my palate, very impressive indeed I suggested creating some extra ‘tasting notes’ as part of the dining experience, maybe on the back of the wine card that you get presented with to remind you of the wine flight contents.

The next dish was a pre-dessert, an extremely clever play on a previous course, I am not spilling the beans suffice to say it was brilliant! The winery, from Tokaj in Hungary called Dobogó means clippity clop and produces ‘Mylitta’ desert wine, your can find out more about this small family run company by clicking the link above.

Almost done! I had arrived at just after 19:15 and it was now after 10:30, the evening had slowly drifted as each plate arrived at the table, described in detail followed by the accompanying wine, brilliant service, un-rushed and delightful.

The ‘main’ dessert was a combination of hot, cold, texture, balanced flavours and comprised of 3 main elements, each with ‘sub’ elements, complex, but seriously tasty. I am not really a desert person but this was packed with flavour, but at the same time light and a good finish to the main event.

The wine again was perfect, A Macvin du Jura Blanc, a blend dating back to the 14th century. It was sweet, complex and a mixture of Jura grape varieties and Marc du Jura, a strong distillate of grape skins, pulp and seeds. It’s strong!

My guilty pleasure is cheese, I am a serious cheese addict and will often have cheese as an evening meal, with an assortment of biscuits, grapes, apple and all sorts. I am amazed at how milk can be capable of producing so many different flavours and textures, and when you apply heat to the right cheese, its miraculous transformation into something extra special.

On my last visit to No.6 I don’t recall a cheese course, this time there was. The Barkham Blue I mentioned earlier is a favourite, especially a Christmas. I recall a year or two ago not being able to get any as the farm where the cheese is made had had a fire, luckily they are back to normal now and I can get it locally at a couple of specialist outlets. The cheeses were served with warm Apple Pie, I love the mix of sweet and savoury, and salty with the blue cheese, it works for me, a delicious end to a stunning meal.

We were done, the end of an evening of taste, imagination and wonderment, an adventure to test the palate and taste buds in the best possible way. The staff were the best, polite, generous and warm, the whole experience from entering the front door 40 minutes early, to the final dish had been just brilliant.

A big thanks to Paul Ainsworth and all the team front and back of house for the most enjoyable evening, and to Tom the Cocktail Shaker, Alice, Chris and Loren for their friendship and kindness during my evening at No.6.

That was it, my 2nd ‘Eating Padstow’ trip was complete, off to bed, sleep and rest before setting off for the 4 hour drive back home!

…………………………….Until Next Time………………..L8ers……………………….