Mussels, Crab, Gurnard and Lemon Sole (Padstow Day 2)

It was a beautiful morning, I was up and excited for the days tuition and cooking, sleep had been restful, the Harbour Hotels bed and pillows agreed with me, after a cup of tea and shower I walked down to the harbour to look at the day boats before heading to the school, a daily habit.

The communal table at the far end of the ‘kitchen’ was my starting position, welcomed by Phil, ‘what would you like to drink Jules’, I would alternate between Latte and Cappuccino, soon the others would drift in and discuss the previous evenings activities, we were all staying local but in different hotels and guest houses. I still had the previous evenings meal on my mind, it was really good, what were we going to cook today was my next thought.

Nick came over and asked us to the front of the kitchen, ready for the next demonstration, we were going to cook Mussels, hmmmmm, what did I have last night, these were different, no XO, but Garlic, Tomato, Chilli and Parsley, delicious. We were taken through the process, and at the same time questions were asked and stories told about Nicks chef life, interesting and amusing at the same time, he had some great stories to tell which got everyone engaged.

Interesting was the source and reasoning for picking a particular supplier of mussels, West Country Mussels, they are amazing. Grown offshore near Fowey they are very plump, have a thinner shell and much less gritty than the mussels you get rope grown in estuaries and close to the shoreline, they were the same ones I had the previous evening.

After Nick prepared each dish we all got to take a picture of the finished meal, we also got a taster so we could understand what our dish should be like flavour wise, obviously everyone has their own palate so there was always an amount of ‘interpretation’ here and there! Above left is Nicks taster, right is my lunch at the communal table, it was very tasty.

It’s Sunday and earlier today there was an episode of Ricky Stein’s Seaford Odyssey on TV, he was in his original small kitchen at ‘The Seafood”, cooking Lemon Sole with a delicious spiced butter, I know it’s delicious as we all cooked the very same dish last week, on day 2. Learning the 2 common methods of preparing the fish before cooking was fascinating, can you spot the difference in the picture above. There were a couple of amusing stories relating to this, if you want to find out you will need to book the course and learn some fab skills at the same time.

Off we went in our pairs, chatting, chopping, slicing and preparing, deciding which method to go with, it made a difference but ultimately, a delicious grilled flatfish with flavoured butter ended up on the dinner plate, along with crisp glass of Muscadet this time, served by the ever present Phil, who also advised, guided and ‘got stuff ready’, so we could focus on the cooking and make the most of our time.

Excuse my french but Gurnard is a bugger of a fish to prepare, it has an awkward shape and bones in unusual places, Nick sorted one like it was child’s play, the rest of us took a little longer! This was a brilliant dish from ‘Rick Steins India’ book, a Madras Curry base packed with tomatoes, mustard seeds, onion and Tamarind it was a belter. This could easily be prepared using Cod or any other firm white fish, it wasn’t too challenging except the fish preparation, one of the reasons we were all attending the school.

Singapore Chilli Crab was our next adventure, after Nick explained how to tell the difference between male and female we all got a crab to prepare, its not too difficult once you have been shown the good and not so good bits. No part of the crab is poisonous, some parts are just unpleasant so don’t believe all the stories you may have heard about dead mans fingers!

We had all been snacking on demo dishes and eating our own efforts, I was conscious that I was out again that evening so put the breaks on and let my colleague have my efforts, so that I had some space for the special event later on.

The ‘Tuesday demo’ was a delicious looking Indonesian Seaford Curry (£39.95 in the restaurant), served with a Green Bean and Grated Coconut Salad, Crispy Shallots and Garlic. We were shown the various stages and when completed everyone was given a serving, it was very popular.

In the summer, Padstow is heaving with people, this time of year it’s a peaceful idyl, there are a few tourists around but come evening it’s almost empty. I went for my routine stroll, the evening was warm, the forecast rain had not arrived and I sat by the harbour looking at the fishing boats and imagining the horror of being on one, during really rough seas, not something I would want to experience.

St Petroc’s Bistro was my evenings destination, the executive chef Mark O’Hagen and I had a conversation on 10th November 2021, I had suggested adding some black pudding to the pigeon salad dish I had that evening, we had remained in contact ever since.

Starting with service Yaz was going to make sure I had a great evening the menu arriving promptly, along with a ‘Tarquins Rick Stein’ gin and Fevertree Tonic to set the evening going. As the previous evening I had been looking at the menu for weeks before, trying to reduce my options to a point of decision, it was still difficult.

There were appetiser options before starters and something caught my eye, Salt Cod Brandade with Olive Tapenade and Sour Dough toast, that sounded interesting and something I had not eaten before so it went straight to the top of the ‘must have’ list.

What a decision, absolutely delicious…. Notable (I’m fussy), the Sour Dough was perfectly grilled, no soft lazy edges it was brilliantly done, I know its just a bit of bread but when you have a soft Brandade you need the contrast, it was perfect. As for the Brandade it was delicious, meltingly soft, seasoned with a spread of Olive Tapenade it was a perfect way to get the taste buds going, boooom.

For starters I chose the Smoked Salmon with Horseradish Cream and Walnut Bread, another delicious banging dish. Yaz had been the perfect host so far, checking on me occasionally, not imposing, a beautiful balance of service and attention, a credit to St. Petroc’s.

Back to the starter, the Salmon had a delicate smoke, not heavy and intrusive but subtle and sitting in the background, the Horseradish Cream had the right amount of heat, the chives providing a hint of onion, the Walnut Bread was a perfect match, enough Walnut to be noticeable and offer some texture, simple done brilliantly.

It was the main event and Yaz walked up with my Bass, Beure Blanc and Spinach, it looked fab. Bright Yellow butter sauce, obviously using quality eggs again, St.Ewe as I was to find out later in the week and perfectly cooked Bass fillet, crispy skin and soft giving flesh, it was delightful. My chosen wine for the evening was a bottle of Domain Horgelus which was a perfect match, cutting through the rich sauce like hot knife through butter, what a meal.

A busy day in the kitchen prepping, cooking eating and just the best evening, beautiful service from Yaz and Mark, you knocked it out the park (again), thank-you for making my lonesome evening so enjoyable and memorable.

(Just a quick note, I paid full price for this week in Padstow and have received no incentives or persuasion that would affect my comments and reviews, they are all my personal and unbiased experiences)

……………………………………………Until Next Time……………………L8ers………………

The Last Supper! Well Worth The Effort.

It was time to prepare ‘The Last Supper’ at The French House Party and after a morning creating chocolate sensations (in our own minds at least), we were back in our favourite kitchen with Jean-Marc, pen at the ready he showed us on paper what we were going to prepare.

How about Crab Crumble, Avocado, Papaya, Whipped Mustard Cream and Sorrel Shoots for starters, another lesson in flavours, cooking and food construction techniques.

So we made a Mayonnaise, and referred to the plans as we prepared the dish. As usual, nothing went to waste. Once we had prepared each item we then went about the construction, layers of Crab, Mustard Cream and the other items were carefully layered into an oblong ring. Photo 04-06-2019, 18 37 48You will notice a red item on the top of the finished dish in the picture below, this is a ‘tomato crisp’. The Tomatoes we used to dress the side of the crumble were de-skinned in boiling water and the skins placed in a low oven to dry out completely, and they were really delicious, as was the finished dish, the Mustard Cream was unreal, the fruit balancing the taste.Photo 04-06-2019, 18 38 56So on the main event Lightly Salted Cod in Aioli à La Languedocienne! For this we learnt (loose phrase) to turn vegetables, and very fiddly it was too. The Aiolli was problematic as we were running low on Eggs, we had one! A quick search in the fridge and a couple of yolks from the day before were discovered and we were on our way.Photo 04-06-2019, 19 12 15It was an extremely tasty dish, despite all the effort to make the various elements, but the dessert was the ‘piece de resistance’, a Gateaux St. Honoré. I made some Choux Pastry with Gill whilst the others knocked up a Crème Patissière (Creme Pat, as we came to call it by this time)! Then there was the Puff Pastry Base, and the piping, oh, the piping.Photo 04-06-2019, 17 33 33This was very testing indeed, home made Choux Buns dunked into Hot Caramel,  filled with the Creme Pat, constructing Swans using a piping bag, it was baking and construction and everyone contributed to the elegant dessert, which was very very good.

And that was it!

The end of 5 days intensive cooking and baking with Laurent, Remi, Jean-Marc and Chocolates with Marion, interspersed with fine dining in the most amazing restaurants, and the odd tasting of the origins of Champagne at Limoux,  the marathon was unfortunately over too soon.

So, that was my third trip to The French House Party, it won’t be my last, great fun, great people and always lots to learn it’s a home away from home, thank-you Moira and the team for putting on such a fantastic vacation.

 

…………………………..Until Next Time………………L8ers……………..

 

Ah, just one more thing!

Cronuts!

When I was in New York Last year I had great intentions to hunt out the inventor of the Cronut, a mixup of of Croissant and Donut. I ran out of time and did not make it! I was on Instagram the other day and found Dominique Ansel has an outlet in London, so I will be visiting this fine establishment and testing said ‘Cronut’ as soon as I can!!

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Fish & Crustaceans – Another Amazing Week in Gramont

File 25-06-2016, 09 47 18The stunning Lot-et-Garonne region sits in the South West of France and is home to the Gascony Cookery School based in Gramont, run by David and Vikki Chance, and Bernard Corbière. The school runs from ‘Le Petit Feuillant’ chambre d’hote, the French equivalent of a Bed and Breakfast and ‘Le Petit Feuillant’ Auberge, the excellent traditional restaurant run by Bernard.

I had received an email in November 2015, “we are happy to announce that the Gascony Cookery School’s new Fish and Crustacean Course……..”, with only 8 places and two filled I booked straight away. The school is very familiar to me, having attended a course in 2014 and remembering a fantastic time, It was difficult to count down the months until the day came to depart.20160621_111855There is a SERIOUS amount of cooking on this course and it is excellent value for money, preparing and eating local French traditional cuisine, three courses, with local cheese and copious quantities of wine to wash things down twice a day, and don’t forget the breakfast, you don’t go hungry.

A trip to a local market to buy produce for the meals cooked is part of the experience, armed with a shopping list, basket and some euro’s you wander to select the various fresh vegetables and herbs which you use later in the week. A surprise trip to a fantastic vineyard, with an impromptu picnic with stunning scenery finishes off the week, so the experience envelops and immerses you in French country life.20160621_152005There were 8 of us on the course, here we have left to right Julia (From Tasmania!), Elena and her mum Judith, David (the chef/host) and John, in the kitchen were two friends from St. Petersburg (Russia), the attendees come from all over the world, in this case everyone but Elena had attended at least one previous course, some more than one which demonstrates how good the Gascony Cookery School really is. This was a session on gutting, de-scaling and filleting fish, we were all very comfortable and confident by the end of the week.20160622_123937We had a comprehensive agenda starting most days with breakfast at 8:30, and cooking starting at 9:00. The times are really important, there was a lot to get through and we could not afford to get behind as we would not have anything to eat.

Everyone mucks in and helps with clearing down as each dish is finished and the next started. Examples on the menu included Mussell Soup with infused Saffron, Lobster a l’americaine, Scallop Quenelles in Chicken Consommé (yes, we made a Consommé from scratch), Rillettes Of Trout, Bouillabaisse………etc. For desserts our efforts included Millefeuille aux Pommes, Pièce Montée (aka Croquembouche), Almond & Orange Cake (which was so so good) we made about 18 different dishes in total, so you learn ‘A LOT’ of techniques and processes!20160620_131400-1 (1)So would I recommend this school, hell yeah it’s awesome. My second visit was just like the 1st which is difficult to describe as you HAVE to experience it for yourself. Just to be clear, I paid full price and have received no incentives for this review, it’s me, what I think and as good as a description of the experience I can give.20160622_081928The scenery is stunning, the weather was good enough to eat outside several times peaking at 41 deg on one day. It’s a trip for people who want to learn, definitely not one for lazing around so it takes your mind away from the thought of work and within a day, I could not tell you what day it was. The hosts David, Vikki and Bernard make you so welcome it really is like being part of an extended family!20160620_162012A course like this needs excellent ingredients, seafood HAS to be fresh and ours was no exception. The planning that goes into ensuring the right products are available is not easy, especially when the school location is in the middle of nowhere!

We had the most amazing Lobster (alive) and Crab (also alive), the rest of the fish was the same (but not alive!!) with bright eyes and beautiful red gills so the resultant dishes were just sublime. There was no ‘sharing’ of ingredients, it was a Lobster each, a Sea Bass each, a Red Mullet each so we all got the chance to learn and practise the gutting, de-scaling, and filleting several times gaining more and more confidence each time.20160622_125022-1It was not just about preparing Fish and Crustaceans, the stunning Crab Tart required a very delicate ‘Pâte Brisée’, a REALLY short pastry which had to be chilled for a couple of days and was an absolute challenge to get into the tart tin, it was well worth it, the results were outstanding. 20160621_215945Just as difficult, I think even more so was the ‘Pâte Sablée’, a sweet version for the Walnut and Honey tart we made, it was very crumbly and needed a lot of work to line the tart tin properly but the the end result made it well worth it. Add to that making proper multi layered stocks and prepping veg it’s full on at the Gascony Cookery School but really good fun.

If you like cooking and fancy doing something a bit different point you browser at http://www.gasconcook.co.uk as I did, I will be returning in the future as they also do an advanced week which I have not done yet, and a shorter charcuterie course too.

It’s a fantastic experience, you will learn loads and make new friends with a common interest so give it a go, you will not be disappointed with amazing hosts David, Vikki and Bernard.

 

………………………..Until next time, L8ers……………………………………